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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 2477

post #24761 of 25922
Hey, does anyone know how to use the overclocked refresh rate at 1080p on a QNIX? I've tried making a custom resolution at 1080p and it still doesn't pop up in my games at anymore than 60Hz. Everythings fine at 1440p with the OC'd refresh rate.
post #24762 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomcatV View Post

Shame your older QX2710 got dinged especially if it was the older L02 without PWM dimming. Check my post HERE for the True10 multi's (85Hz max) the new muti's (above post) that was the 1st feedback I've seen rolleyes.gif

If you prefer a "matte" panel and have PWM concerns I'd go with the Crossover 2795 HERE ... you may find my post HERE interesting also ... hope that Helps wink.gif
I've seen this happening all the time without any good explanation ... When I upgraded to my 980Ti from 2x680's (Kepler), my Overlord (Cat2B) now only clocks to 112Hz vs 120hz ... my QNIX is my secondary monitor and it still clocks @120Hz But it had +10Hz headroom (haven't checked max) ... Also "WoW" what a great match the 980Ti is with the 1440p OC'd Korean panels biggrin.gif


Thank you Tomcat! Just saved me a huge disappointment. Explains why all the old ebay sellers are selling the Crossover currently.

I still kept the Qnix for parts. Internals are all good. Maybe I can hock them thumb.gif

Trying to convince my wife to let me buy two (Crossovers now)... not sure my 780ti could power them both..... Not for gaming when both are in use, but for photo editing.
post #24763 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomcatV View Post

I saw these pop-up a couple weeks ago ... It's only one sample so far but it's hard to argue with the pictures for proof rolleyes.gif

Looks to be an updated panel from the original True10's called the "Hot" or gamer models ... AUO M270DAN01.0 Anti-Glare 3H ... it's also claiming a 4ms GtoG but conflicting "brightness" specs ... HERE and HERE ...

Brand: QNIX
Model: QX2710LED EVOLUTION2 MULTI HOT
Display Panel: LED. A-HVA, Anti-Glare (Matte)
Screen size: 27type, 27-inch 16:9 wide (596.7mmx335.6mm)
Recommended Resolution: 2560 ×1440 (QHD)
Pixel Pitch: 0.233mm x 0.233mm
Displacement Color: 1.06 Billon Colors (10bit)
Brightness: 350cd/㎡
Response time: 4ms (G to G)
Contrast Raito: 1000:1
Dynamic Contrast Ratio (DCR): 2,000,000:1
View Angle: 178(H),178(V) Wide Viewing Angle
Horizontal Frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
Input Port: DVI-D dual Link, HDMI, Audio IN, D/C
Speakers: 5W x 5W
Stand: Tilt VESA: 100mm x 100mm Power consumption: 40W (General)
Standby Power: 0.5W
Size (with Stand): 646mm(W) x 463mm(H) x 170mm(D)
Power supply: 100~240V/ 12V 5A

NOW the big question is if it uses PWM Diming or not??? ... and it doesn't seem to come in a glossy version redface.gif


TomcatV can you purchase one, figure out its real specs and then let me know so that I can decide to purchase or not. wink.gif



lol tongue.gif
   
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
I7-3770K Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 Saphire R9 290 Saphire R9 290 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Dominator Platinum OCZ Vertex 4  OCZ Vertex 4 Seagate  
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Custom Loop Windows 8.1 QNIX QX2710LED Logitech G710 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
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post #24764 of 25922
When I turn my Qnix Off for about 2 minutes then turn it On, It goes very vibrant for a sec or 2 and then kinda goes a little darker and not as vibrant and stays at this setting. Is my monitor going bad? I seem to think so.
post #24765 of 25922
Hi,

I have a Qnix 2710 and would like to know is this backlight bleeding or ips glow.Thanks.





image.jpeg 1405k .jpeg file
post #24766 of 25922
That is a backlight bleed.
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post #24767 of 25922
Hey guys I have purchased qnix 2710 pls Samsung panel 2 years ago but from days ago it fall from the desk and broken , so I think about new one and found the old one like I had before with 219$
http://m.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253D97e2d8d7f9164b3989f61cc356b51833%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D9%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D221203079356&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
And new one ahva with 200$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor/121362611435?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35412%26meid%3Db436f4b2014d4a1c9015030ebad0f604%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D130933173797
So I search about them and see you say that ahva don't OC but in new editions the seller say its OC
So my question is
which screen is color more beautiful and which is more comfortable to eyes and more nature ?
And
I want to ask how I can secure the screen so don't fall again

I read that the new options in the ahva is just fake and it is not like the promo

And I want to take the risk to order the new one with ahva because it something new and I don't like to order some thing twice
So what do you think , should i take the risk or be with Samsung ?
And tell me the cons about it specially in colour or if anything else beside OC

Thank you guys
post #24768 of 25922
Hey monistor, check the Displayport version, dvi cable was only able to do 72hz stable, with a displayport cable 90hz stable. Got it this past week, no dead-pixels, backlight bleed. Proof: Not sure if camera was properly calibrated, take the pics as you will, http://imgur.com/a/tRwpQ
post #24769 of 25922
So i'm having trouble with my over clock for my QX2710. I'm updating the monitor in device manager, i'm patching it with patcher 1.3.5, everything is found and patched, I change the refresh rate on NvCp to 96 hrz, but when I go to UFO frame test there is stuttering even though it says I have a valid refresh rate. Does anyone know why the overclock is not working for me?

Thanks

If it helps, I have an Intel 4670K and two GTX 970's.
post #24770 of 25922
I'm sorry if this has been covered before but I was unable to find anything while searching the thread.

I bought this monitor recently (from green-sum) and tried to alleviate some of the back light bleed by removing the bezel and straightening the frame... only to find that there is no metal frame attached to the panel. The panel is bare edged except for a border of black tape.

The panel is barely being held in place by 2 (aftermarket looking) metal brackets... ***.

Has anyone encountered this?
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