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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 2501

post #25001 of 25969
Just a quick Q, Customs.

Seeing as how the monitor is shipped from Korea, did any US residents have to pay brokerage fees at your doors? (I'm Canadian, but if you guys had to pay, so will I)
I've ordered countless times from china and Japan and rarely ever paid customs. luck or thats how its supposed to be, I dont know.
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post #25002 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeVltg3 View Post

Sorry tomcat, I'm not sure I follow. is the PWM factor ...a bad thing. like I googled it "Pulse Wave Modulation" from what I understand ....does that mean the screen will flicker or because of the high hertz, the screen will go dim? (less power to the leds) mainly what I'm asking is, will the average user notice the "problem" or only a ....videophile.

It's really an individual (person) thing. Some folks notice it to the point that it drives them to distraction or even causes headaches. Others don't notice it at all. I suspect it has to do with how the person is wired, so to speak... smile.gif
post #25003 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeVltg3 View Post

Just a quick Q, Customs.

Seeing as how the monitor is shipped from Korea, did any US residents have to pay brokerage fees at your doors? (I'm Canadian, but if you guys had to pay, so will I)
I've ordered countless times from china and Japan and rarely ever paid customs. luck or thats how its supposed to be, I dont know.

Nope it been completly free shipping for me in the states
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post #25004 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeVltg3 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomcatV View Post

Sorry I couldn't follow up sooner ... When the Koreans put "Glossy" in the ebay title they are talking about the screen. There was confusion in the past (2+yrs ago) but this very thread set them straight! wink.gif

For overclocking you have "dun" good! BUT ... there is the matter of PWM diming on the newer L07 panels ... for some, NO BIG DEAL (ie. Misiak) ... for others like me, it is ... some comments HERE ... redface.gif

Hope that helps you with your decision(s) wink.gif
Sorry tomcat, I'm not sure I follow. is the PWM factor ...a bad thing. like I googled it "Pulse Wave Modulation" from what I understand ....does that mean the screen will flicker or because of the high hertz, the screen will go dim? (less power to the leds) mainly what I'm asking is, will the average user notice the "problem" or only a ....videophile.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seafodder View Post

It's really an individual (person) thing. Some folks notice it to the point that it drives them to distraction or even causes headaches. Others don't notice it at all. I suspect it has to do with how the person is wired, so to speak... smile.gif

Seafodders explanation is quite simple but accurate! ... +R for you biggrin.gif

Sometimes I regret even bringing up PWM problems, as psychologically some people will start looking for problems that don't exist for them. For me PWM is real and I notice it right away by the image "blurriness" it causes in fast twitch FPS and within 10-15min I notice eye fatigue ... technical explanation HERE ...

For many it is not a problem ... so enjoy what IMO is a steal deal 1440p/IPS @OC 96-120Hz for under $300 ... an absolute steal when you compare it to the $800 JUNK AUO "gaming" panels from Asus/Acer redface.gif

There are NO fees of any kind ... USA FREE trade agreement with SKorea - April 1, 2007 / Canada-Korea Free Trade Agreement (CKFTA) - January 1, 2015
 
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post #25005 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeVltg3 View Post

Just a quick Q, Customs.

Seeing as how the monitor is shipped from Korea, did any US residents have to pay brokerage fees at your doors? (I'm Canadian, but if you guys had to pay, so will I)
I've ordered countless times from china and Japan and rarely ever paid customs. luck or thats how its supposed to be, I dont know.

The US has a free trade agreement with Korea, so no customs/import duties. Not sure if Canada is the same though.
post #25006 of 25969
Awesome, was a bit worried about it, was $325 CAD ($249usd) total so, anything over $100 is usually like $20+ at the door. I've paid customs fees almost every time ordering anything from a retailer that ships from the US. so nowadays I only buy from overseas, better luck, in the 15 years I've been buying overseas, probably only had the door-fee about 4 times. where as, (almost) every package from the US has had brokerage fees(most I've paid was $96 on a $250 item), and its really hard to sway any seller to ship as gift, mainly because you lose any insurance on shipped item.

I'm currently using a Benq RL2460H monitor, and further reading about PWM, will I notice it going from 1ms GTG to the Qnix 5-8ms GTG (cant find what the actual ms is, keep seeing 5 and 8ms) Will PWM make this a more...noticeable problem if I'm already used to a 1ms monitor. (had a crappy Sony Playstation 3D TV before the Benq, and the 8-11ms response time on it was horrendous, I could see ghosting just moving windows around)
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post #25007 of 25969
My Evolution 2 came in last night and it is beautiful. Pixel perfect and all. Arrived in Texas from Korea in 3 days from the order date.



The only issue I'm having is the qnix driver I have is a .rar file and I can't figure out how to disable dsr in NVCP.


Edit: I figured it out.
Edited by MillerLite1314 - 6/1/16 at 5:10pm
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post #25008 of 25969
I have had my Qnix Glossy monitor for around 3 weeks now and it has zero dead pixels which was a relief, I just hope it last longer than my Yamakasi Catleap which lasted only 3 years. When the Yamakasi died I replaced it with a Dell Ultrasharp but I couldn't get use to the matte screen after having a glossy screen, for photo editing I really appreciated a glossy screen it's so much easier. People say that a glossy screen shows more reflections but I don't and actually in daylight I find that the glow from on a matte screen worse by far.
I have the monitor calibrated with my Huey Pro now and I find this monitor superb for what I use it for Photoshop ect, and the size is just about perfect
post #25009 of 25969
Anyone have any really advanced tips for achieving a higher overclock?

I'm using an MSI GTX 770 Lightning with a custom bios - most monitors are digitally limited to 120Hz on Kepler(?) like the 144/165Hz XB271HU. My 970 is out of order for now, but perhaps it would help the situation?

Also, does it matter which DL-DVI port I use on my 770?

I can get 117Hz flawless, but above that I cannot seem to reduce horizontal red lines on specific dark screens any further. There are several lines per second on these very specific scenes only.

This picture does it for me: HUGE PNG: 2560x1440 (Click to show)

These timings give me the fewest lines:


I actually get far LESS artifacts running at 120.8Hz instead of 120Hz.
Going below 2652 gives me green/white flickering vertical lines in three places, although I can set it as low as 2658 before out of bounds.
Going below 1458 increases power usage from 62w to 104w. Going below 1456 increases artifacts. I can go as low as 1444 before out of bounds.
Going around 470Mhz+ Pixel clock gives extreme artifacts.

Is there anything else I should try with front/back porch/sync width and other timings? I could use CRU for more fine grained control.


Physical Upgrades:
I've upgraded the power brick to one that can output 72w max instead of 59w max, it runs much cooler. I looked at about 30 different ones before I found one I liked: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BNZR2

I'm using a 24AWG 6ft DL-DVI-D cable: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2686.

I've debezeled the monitor, although the back of the case has to stay even with my vesa arm because the case is what holds the panel.
While I was in there I put a heatsink on the largest chip (scaler?) which I'm assuming is what matters. I attached it with thermal tape. (Took pic beforehand, sorry it's out of focus, using Coolpix potato. I can take a MUCH better photo if needed).

I also removed the speakers completely (Red/Black & Blue/Black wires on top) to lower draw on the board and reduce possible electromagnetic interference from the speakers and related circuitry on the board.




Ideas:
Perhaps I should add some more cutouts to the place where it's mounted? Maybe heat sinks on other things?
I could even swap some parts on the board like capacitors or that plug-in type chip if it would help.

I was also thinking of adding some foil to those HORRIBLY shielded cables (can't even see shielding in the pic, it starts another inch down).
Maybe I should just get entirely new internal video cables with thicker gauge & better shielding?


Thoughts? I'm going full enthusiast mode on this. (Especially because I'm switching to the XB217HU as soon as it's back in stock refurbished).

I want that 120Hz. Some say it can't be done, that it all depends on the monitor. - But what specifically does it depend on? It's more specific that that.
Edited by cookieboyeli - 6/6/16 at 4:35am
post #25010 of 25969
Just FYI guys. I am the person that had the issue with the green lines on half of the screen at refresh rates of 45Hz and above.

Today I took the panel apart and wrapped the lvds cables with some 3M friction tape.

I then unplugged and then re-plugged all of the cables back in and Viola! no green lines and the monitor is overclocked to 75Hz. I'm not trying to push the monitor as I really have no need for gaming above 75Hz right now.

This is the same fix as the other person on this thread that had red lines on half of his screen.
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