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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 2520

post #25191 of 25969
I mean the actual PCB inside the monitor housing could be failing. In my case, when the monitor did the clicking I thought first it was the power brick. I tested it and it was ok. So when it started up again I watched the brick and saw that the power light dimmed to the clicks (I could hear the panel clicking and the brick). I cannot say for sure your internals are failing on the monitor, only it sounds similar to my issue.

You would need to open the monitor and replace the internal PCB - the one you connect your GPU to the monitor. Of course, you won't need to do anything until it completely craps out on you and it may make it for a while still - who knows? rolleyes.gif

Now whether you can get the proper part depends entirely on what monitor you have and the LG panel actually used in it. The Koreans tend to mix and match panels and PCBs so saying you have X model from Y company won't tell us anything. You will need to crack it open and actually look at the white LG label on the back of the panel. I know of only one place to get LG PCBs and those are only good for a specific range of LG LM270WQ1 panels. There may be other resellers of replacement parts, but I only have the WQ1 panels so I have never had to look.
post #25192 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by roberts6910 View Post

That stinks! Dunno about the cables, seems strange that both would not push past 1080. If it doesn't work with new cables I would crack it open and look at the internals. If you could post up pics it would be helpful to others for sure - especially if they run into similar issues.

One quick question - you aren't connecting both DVI and HDMI at the same time correct? I assume not.

Correct. I tried it with the DVI cable alone and no joy. I am suspect now that it is a input board problem as it picks up DVI-D on my computer but regular DVI on the actual monitor end.
When I do HDMI to HDMI as a test it does pick up that it's HDMI both ends but doesn't go past 1080p.

I assume I will have to return it at my cost and put a claim in to get the customs back.

How hard is it to take apart? is there a guide to stripping it ?

just for the sake of testing I also used a single dvi cable and it didn't show a picture at all.
Edited by Solado - 7/9/16 at 1:21pm
post #25193 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solado View Post

Correct. I tried it with the DVI cable alone and no joy. I am suspect now that it is a input board problem as it picks up DVI-D on my computer but regular DVI on the actual monitor end.
When I do HDMI to HDMI as a test it does pick up that it's HDMI both ends but doesn't go past 1080p.

I assume I will have to return it at my cost and put a claim in to get the customs back.

How hard is it to take apart? is there a guide to stripping it ?

just for the sake of testing I also used a single dvi cable and it didn't show a picture at all.

No warranty from the seller? They should take it back and replace it for you.

Tear down of these things is super easy. Never did a tear down on your monitor, but it looks like a Catleap housing. So 4 screws on the bottom and some separating pressure near the OSD buttons (the easiest place to separate the bezel from the housing) and the bezel pops off. If you have a spudger or even a plastic putty knife that can separate the bezel (do not use metal it will mar the plastic pretty easily). Internally, it could depend on how the panel is mounted. Some are screwed to the housing some panels are simply pressure mounted and pop out.

DO NOT lift the panel out straight away. You will need to tilt it from the bottom and look underneath to disconnect the input PCB from the panel TCON. There will be one, possibly two, cables that connect them (most likely only one). Once that is done you can lift the panel off.

From there it's pretty straightforward. The TCON on the panel with have a metal cover (4 screws) and the input PCB may not have a cover and is held in with 4 screws.

If you have an LM270WQ1(XX)(XX) panel - the (XX)(XX) is the submodel number - you could purchase an overclock PCB kit to replace what is there. Look for the LG panel sticker on the back of the panel.

Good luck! thumb.gif
post #25194 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by roberts6910 View Post

No warranty from the seller? They should take it back and replace it for you.

Tear down of these things is super easy. Never did a tear down on your monitor, but it looks like a Catleap housing. So 4 screws on the bottom and some separating pressure near the OSD buttons (the easiest place to separate the bezel from the housing) and the bezel pops off. If you have a spudger or even a plastic putty knife that can separate the bezel (do not use metal it will mar the plastic pretty easily). Internally, it could depend on how the panel is mounted. Some are screwed to the housing some panels are simply pressure mounted and pop out.

DO NOT lift the panel out straight away. You will need to tilt it from the bottom and look underneath to disconnect the input PCB from the panel TCON. There will be one, possibly two, cables that connect them (most likely only one). Once that is done you can lift the panel off.

From there it's pretty straightforward. The TCON on the panel with have a metal cover (4 screws) and the input PCB may not have a cover and is held in with 4 screws.

If you have an LM270WQ1(XX)(XX) panel - the (XX)(XX) is the submodel number - you could purchase an overclock PCB kit to replace what is there. Look for the LG panel sticker on the back of the panel.

Good luck! thumb.gif

Yeah 1 year warranty so I can send it back to the seller. It looks like I will be £25 out of pocket and I have little faith in the monitors now so i guess it's a case of waiting for the cable and deciding a refund or replacement.
post #25195 of 25969
Just to update on the situation:

The HDMI 2.0 and DVI-D cable came today and exact same problem with the monitor unable to go over 1080p. This happened on both my brothers machine (Nvidia 970) and my machine (R9 270X). The settings only pick up a DVI port on the monitor and not a DVI-D port and the HDMI refuses to go over 1080p.

The input PCB is clearly faulty so I have requested a refund and to return the monitor, I would advise against buying the multiple input version as clearly some poor quality components are being used to cut price and corners. I will be out of pocket by £25 in return shipping and go through the tax office to get my £45 duty back. If you live in the UK I advise you DO NOT buy one of these monitors as it's a huge problem when they go wrong.
post #25196 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by roberts6910 View Post

I mean the actual PCB inside the monitor housing could be failing. In my case, when the monitor did the clicking I thought first it was the power brick. I tested it and it was ok. So when it started up again I watched the brick and saw that the power light dimmed to the clicks (I could hear the panel clicking and the brick). I cannot say for sure your internals are failing on the monitor, only it sounds similar to my issue.

You would need to open the monitor and replace the internal PCB - the one you connect your GPU to the monitor. Of course, you won't need to do anything until it completely craps out on you and it may make it for a while still - who knows? rolleyes.gif

Now whether you can get the proper part depends entirely on what monitor you have and the LG panel actually used in it. The Koreans tend to mix and match panels and PCBs so saying you have X model from Y company won't tell us anything. You will need to crack it open and actually look at the white LG label on the back of the panel. I know of only one place to get LG PCBs and those are only good for a specific range of LG LM270WQ1 panels. There may be other resellers of replacement parts, but I only have the WQ1 panels so I have never had to look.

Yep so as of this morning the monitor is constantly clicking. I got a new brick and it's doing the same thing but with less frequent clicking and a pink screen flashing instead of white.

How much is that PCB part that you bought? The monitor is on sale for $189 right now so I'm thinking to just purchase another one for the time being.
post #25197 of 25969
Gonna buy a qnix later tonight, will select the USD $140 "off-grade" matte which may have slight flaw on the panel (scratch, dp , bp ,coin sized bleeding)
Excited about 1440p

will lower backlight to under 20 , tune some colors if possible
not intending to overclock , I'm fine with 60fps casual gaming.
Edited by krabs - 7/10/16 at 6:43pm
Skylake2016
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i5-6600k 4.62ghz 1.36v adaptive LLC 4 asus z170 pro gaming powercolor 7850 2gb @ 30% OC 8+8gb corsair 2400mhz CL14 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
samsung 850 240gb SSD 2 TB seagate HDD Phanteks tc14pe with noctua 140mm 1500rpm middl... win7 x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Qnix qx2710 matte 1440p CoolerMaster tenkeyless cherry brown +o-rings EVGA P2 650w platinum ikonik en2 140+140(stock fans from cooler) +1... 
Mouse
Logitech 402 
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Reply
Skylake2016
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i5-6600k 4.62ghz 1.36v adaptive LLC 4 asus z170 pro gaming powercolor 7850 2gb @ 30% OC 8+8gb corsair 2400mhz CL14 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
samsung 850 240gb SSD 2 TB seagate HDD Phanteks tc14pe with noctua 140mm 1500rpm middl... win7 x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Qnix qx2710 matte 1440p CoolerMaster tenkeyless cherry brown +o-rings EVGA P2 650w platinum ikonik en2 140+140(stock fans from cooler) +1... 
Mouse
Logitech 402 
  hide details  
Reply
post #25198 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangosmango View Post

Yep so as of this morning the monitor is constantly clicking. I got a new brick and it's doing the same thing but with less frequent clicking and a pink screen flashing instead of white.

How much is that PCB part that you bought? The monitor is on sale for $189 right now so I'm thinking to just purchase another one for the time being.

$75 shipped US - these overclock well. Not sure if that bargain basement monitor is a real value. I would worry about tons of pixel issues and crazy bleed. tongue.gif
post #25199 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by roberts6910 View Post

$75 shipped US - these overclock well. Not sure if that bargain basement monitor is a real value. I would worry about tons of pixel issues and crazy bleed. tongue.gif

can you link me? http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ isn't working anymore
post #25200 of 25969
Not without another monitor or another power brick that I know of.
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