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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 28

post #271 of 25864
BTW those that get the monitors and don't have a plug adapter... you can just take a cable from your old desktop, broken power supply, other monitor etc etc etc...

You just need something like which I have tons of lying around from broken PSUs computers and old monitors. So you can save yourself some cash.

No need for an adapter.
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post #272 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by JQuantum View Post

BTW those that get the monitors and don't have a plug adapter... you can just take a cable from your old desktop, broken power supply, other monitor etc etc etc...

You just need something like which I have tons of lying around from broken PSUs computers and old monitors. So you can save yourself some cash.

No need for an adapter.

Better than an adapter actually. Less bulky, and it had a proper ground pin.
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post #273 of 25864
Would you guys consider the backlight bleed on mine bad? It really doesn't look as bad in person. The colors aren't really noticeable.



I think I made the top right corner worse than it was since I've been pressing on it constantly to fix a stuck pixel that won't go away. So if I do the mod to fix the panel play should that lessen the backlight bleed also? I'm a little reluctant because when I opened my Catleap to take the stand off I did a terrible job. When I was prying the bezel open with a screwdriver I left bumps and scratches everywhere on the sides. doh.gif
post #274 of 25864
Download a few from this site and prepare to be in awe.

http://interfacelift.com/
post #275 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by apav View Post

Would you guys consider the backlight bleed on mine bad?
No, one of the things about LCDs is that viewed from an angle, they produce different amounts of backlighting. When you think about the angle you're viewing it at (directly in front of the screen), what are the areas of the screen that you're viewing from the largest angle? The corners. If you were to take the picture with the camera directly in front of one of the corners, the "bleed" you're seeing would be gone, and the others (especially the far corner) would be worse. The backlight bleed you care about from shots taken from directly in-front of the screen are the ones that show up on edges or are colored, like your one corner. You don't have really bad classic backlight bleed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by apav View Post

So if I do the mod to fix the panel play should that lessen the backlight bleed also?
This is another common question I thought I'd finally weigh in on. If you have a lot of play, that means you are exerting almost no pressure on the LCD panel assembly (metal-framed thing from my breakdown vids) from the enclosure. Backlight bleed is caused by light being visible without it traveling through the LCD pixel matrix (the only light you're supposed to see). If you have a case that is pinching the metal LCD assembly or the LCD panel itself, you can get light to come through spaces it makes in the LCD "layers" (again from the vids). One of the benefits of the "play" is that you're less likely to be pinching the LCD assembly tightly. The other, I believe more common, cause of backlight bleed is when the case isn't pushing on the assembly in any significant amount as previously mentioned, BUT the layers inside the LCD panel assembly are not held tightly together enough to ensure even spacing and NO gaps where light can squeeze through around edges. I think part of the reason the mod you see me do in my videos works isn't for the reason you (and I) might first think. I thought I was putting black tape in the place where light was squeezing out and shining on the front surface of the panel. I now think adding that tape really just squeezed the layers inside tighter together, removing gaps where light could travel around a layer (such as the diffuser) and shine on the back or edge of the liquid crystal panel (top layer).

So, in the end I think the biggest fixes for backlight bleed will be with modifications to the LCD panel assembly itself, and not the casing.

EDIT: you may still have a problem in your corners that's being masked by the angle you're shooting at. I suggest to you and anyone else doing this, to shoot 5 shots, one with the camera directly in-front of each corner, and one from straight in front, as you've done. That'll tell a lot about what's actually bleeding versus the LCD off-angle "shimmer" as I call it. Example pics coming...
Edited by dascth - 4/28/13 at 9:53pm
post #276 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by dascth View Post

No, one of the things about LCDs is that viewed from an angle, they produce different amounts of backlighting. When you think about the angle you're viewing it at (directly in front of the screen), what are the areas of the screen that you're viewing from the largest angle? The corners. If you were to take the picture with the camera directly in front of one of the corners, the "bleed" you're seeing would be gone, and the others (especially the far corner) would be worse. The backlight bleed you care about from shots taken from directly in-front of the screen are the ones that show up on edges or are colored, like your one corner. You don't have really bad classic backlight bleed.
This is another common question I thought I'd finally weigh in on. If you have a lot of play, that means you are exerting almost no pressure on the LCD panel assembly (metal-framed thing from my breakdown vids) from the enclosure. Backlight bleed is caused by light being visible without it traveling through the LCD pixel matrix (the only light you're supposed to see). If you have a case that is pinching the metal LCD assembly or the LCD panel itself, you can get light to come through spaces it makes in the LCD "layers" (again from the vids). One of the benefits of the "play" is that you're less likely to be pinching the LCD assembly tightly. The other, I believe more common, cause of backlight bleed is when the case isn't pushing on the assembly in any significant amount as previously mentioned, BUT the layers inside the LCD panel assembly are not held tightly together enough to ensure even spacing and NO gaps where light can squeeze through around edges. I think part of the reason the mod you see me do in my videos works isn't for the reason you (and I) might first think. I thought I was putting black tape in the place where light was squeezing out and shining on the front surface of the panel. I now think adding that tape really just squeezed the layers inside tighter together, removing gaps where light could travel around a layer (such as the diffuser) and shine on the back or edge of the liquid crystal panel (top layer).

So, in the end I think the biggest fixes for backlight bleed will be with modifications to the LCD panel assembly itself, and not the casing.

EDIT: you may still have a problem in your corners that's being masked by the angle you're shooting at. I suggest to you and anyone else doing this, to shoot 5 shots, one with the camera directly in-front of each corner, and one from straight in front, as you've done. That'll tell a lot about what's actually bleeding versus the LCD off-angle "shimmer" as I call it. Example pics coming...

Thanks for the info smile.gif Here you go, if this helps give a more accurate measurement of my backlight bleed:

Bottom left:


Top left:


Bottom right:


Top right:
post #277 of 25864
I'm from Canada and to buy the 24 AWG cable from monoprice alone has $8-$9 shipping, is it recommended to get that cable or are there any alternatives? If it's recommended then i'll just get it!

Thanks!
post #278 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jboss View Post

I'm from Canada and to buy the 24 AWG cable from monoprice alone has $8-$9 shipping, is it recommended to get that cable or are there any alternatives? If it's recommended then i'll just get it!

Thanks!

I got one, but it gave me scan lines/artifacts on the desktop at 120hz. I'm pretty sure it's the cable, since my other DVI cable only gives me scan lines in games at 120hz and not on the desktop. I bought this Monoprice cable to get rid of the scan lines altogether, but it could be my monitor as well. Another one is on the way for testing. If you have the money, I recommend buying 2 if you're worried about getting rid of scan lines or artifacts. HyperMatrix told me he has 2, and one is horrible for 120hz and the other is perfect.

The 24AWG is a snake though. It is thick and it will not bend easily. So if you're in tight spacing, you might want to go with the 28AWG. Should really be no difference bandwidth wise for 120hz, but I didn't want to take that chance and didn't mind having a bigger cable.
post #279 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by apav View Post

I got one, but it gave me scan lines/artifacts on the desktop at 120hz. I'm pretty sure it's the cable, since my other DVI cable only gives me scan lines in games at 120hz and not on the desktop. I bought this Monoprice cable to get rid of the scan lines altogether, but it could be my monitor as well. Another one is on the way for testing. If you have the money, I recommend buying 2 if you're worried about getting rid of scan lines or artifacts. HyperMatrix told me he has 2, and one is horrible for 120hz and the other is perfect.

The 24AWG is a snake though. It is thick and it will not bend easily. So if you're in tight spacing, you might want to go with the 28AWG. Should really be no difference bandwidth wise for 120hz, but I didn't want to take that chance and didn't mind having a bigger cable.

Just curious but how much is shipping over in the US at monoprice?
post #280 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jboss View Post

Just curious but how much is shipping over in the US at monoprice?

It's like $7 and change for priority mail, and I could only choose that. Which is a bit meh, didn't have time to look for coupons for free shipping.
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