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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 33

post #321 of 25887
Mine is a monster, 138hz completely stable, 144hz with a few random lines
ivybeech
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ivybeech
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post #322 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kcamaross View Post

Mine is a monster, 138hz completely stable, 144hz with a few random lines

Stock cable? Can you screenshot the entry in CRU?
post #323 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kcamaross View Post

Mine is a monster, 138hz completely stable, 144hz with a few random lines

Very nice! Hopefully mine is like that when it comes. *crosses fingers*
post #324 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by hamzatm View Post

It was to the UK, and he sent it via UPS. Total cost was $320 ($20 was for shipping to the UK).
One has a slightly darker top right corner and overall the colour balance was a bit weirder, there were darker and lighter shades on the worse one, while the better one is much more uniform (still some dark bits though). Not a big difference by any means, don't think its noticeable in use.

You mentioned buying from excellentcastle that you got charged customs, how much was the customs/duties fees? I wasn't asking about the shipping fee!
I'm asking this because i ordered at excellentcastle also!

Cheers!
post #325 of 25887
Oh sorry lol, customs was £60 on top
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post #326 of 25887
Anyone know how deep/what size the VESA mount screw holes are? The screws that came with my dual monitor ar that I've mounted mycatleap and various other monitors on are too long, I guess I could always just use lots of washers but I'd rather just buy the correct size screws
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ivybeech
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post #327 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradF1979 View Post

Stock cable? Can you screenshot the entry in CRU?
I haven't even tried the cable the came with it I just used the one that my 1080p 120hz acre was using after I disconnected it, I'll screen shot it in a bit but I know the horizontal pixels are set to 2674 and the total vertical pixels are 1445, pixel clock is pushing 530+
ivybeech
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ivybeech
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Corsair H100 in push/pull Windows 10 pro ASUS ROG Swift PG278Q 27" OC Catleap Q270SE IPS 2560x1440@120hz 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Xarmor mechanical cherry mx-brown Hale90 1000w 80+gold EVGA DG-87 Logitech G502 
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Intel i5-2400 Intel DP67BG Nvidia GTX 950 8gb Gskill Ripjaws 1600mhz ddr3 
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post #328 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by hamzatm View Post

Oh sorry lol, customs was £60 on top

Did he undervalue/mark it as gift? 60 euros seems a lot if he did..
post #329 of 25887
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dascth View Post

The (Not So?) Dummies Guide to Taking Pictures of Your Backlight Bleed
(sorry videos and pics are so dark, view them in the dark I guess)

So check out this interesting video I just took of my monitor while using a polarized lens on my Sony NEX5:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5NLGdxhAoDF5g9jJmwA8xF
Assuming the LCD panel is letting through vertically polarized light (up-down waves), which is just a guess, then when the lens filter is rotated to only let through horizontal light, ZERO light gets through and it appears black. Viewing the panel up close with the filter trying to block all light, what do you notice? It can't block the corner light as it's actually at a different phase. Only when I step farther away from the screen am I able to see that all light hitting my camera is at the same phase (approximately of course). This greater distance from the screen is the correct test scenario for checking for backlight bleed if you're only going to take a single picture.

So, a lot of backlight bleed isn't what we're talking about on here when we say "my monitor has really bad backlight bleed". Some of the light comes through even though we don't want it to, but only when viewed at angles. This is standard and unavoidable for LCD panels universally. Light coming straight out of the screen should all be at the same phase angle (think of an up-down wave or a left-right wave as examples of waves of light at different phases). This is because light of any other phase is blocked by the polarization filter in the screen. When viewing the screen from an angle (which is what you're doing when you're up close and looking around the edge of the screen), you can see light of a different phase (and more of it) passing through the LCD panel. This is what gives LCDs that annoying "shimmer" as you move your head around while looking at an LCD. Unless you have a plasma screen, CRT, or OLED panel for a computer monitor, just get used to it. So, you're not looking for backlight bleed (this out of phase light coming to your eye at an angle) from places you're viewing at an angle, you're looking for it from areas directly in front of your eye/camera.

So, below are some pictures to show the effect in action, but the rule is:
SHOOT FROM FAR AWAY, OR TAKE ENOUGH SHOTS TO SHOW EACH CORNER OR TROUBLE AREA CENTERED DEAD-ON TO THE CAMERA
The effect of screen distance on false backlight bleed: (Click to show)
Shot up close at 19mm (APS-C sensor size)


Shot far away at 55mm (APS-C sensor size)

I added this to the OP under FAQ and the Monitor Help, Support area.

p.s. the Nex5 is a sick camera
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Always Tinkering
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post #330 of 25887
Guys help something horrible just happened, my screen flashed colors and turned off. I was able to turn it back on, but now I got massive burn in all over my screen. Here's a good example:





What just happened and can I fix it? I'm freaking out eek.gif
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