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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 336

post #3351 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

You apparently want to tape underneath the metal frame, once removed, around the bleed areas and yes possibly also some on the panel itself. Frankly, it's really more trial and error, from the sound of it, and once you have it open and are actually looking at the parts and construction then this all becomes a lot more clear. There's not much to them in there, really. You can also turn it on before it's put back together to see what effect your taping has had. That said, even though I have some bleed and had mine open to remove the stand it was obvious delicate work to take off the frame and I have not yet attempted myself.

Thanks for replying, wrigleyvillain.

Yeah, I gess it will become more clear after opening. However I did find some other websites which informs you how to fix BLB. For example this one.

In general it seems you have to put electrical tape on the edge of the panel and around the metal frame. Did I understand this correctly?
Oh well, guess I will see for myself when I open it up tonight or so. Didn't have the time yesterday, had to go out for diner with the misses. smile.gif
     
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post #3352 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by wntrsnowg View Post

Statistics of those who have purchased and reported back suggest that. Unless things have changed, I recommend looking for a seller that is doing that 0-2 dead pixel Promotion. Forget the pixel perfect

Actually I would prefer a no BLB monitor. I can live with a couple of dead pixels. Rather have a monitor with 0 BLB.
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post #3353 of 25887
Alright, here's my story.

I bought the 27 inch pixel perfect QNIX from green-sum.
It arrived amazingly fast. 2 business days like most of you.
I first tested for panel play, which mine had quite a bit of at the top middle and bottom middle of the panel. I turned on the device to verify it was pixel perfect. It is indeed pixel perfect, no dead or stuck pixels.
I tested the backlight bleed. It is quite bad. It even has some red coloring to it on the edges and some really bright bleed along the bottom.
https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/0/AAAN_IDzW7f3Cz5PEpuCgypBbxuD5YWBhGPNl174zD3LKg/12/58097858/jpeg/32x32/3/_/1/2/20130619_195640.jpg/e4lX_hGcZilS8HCDthvNEHGl_4EmI_cieUFXyJDGOYc?size=1024x768
That picture is without the front panel part on so I could check if my taping was working or not, which it wasn't.

I opened this baby up to see what I could do for fixing both problems.

I kind of made a few scratches here and there trying to take off the front panel, prying open the frame. Take your time so you don't mess it up aesthetically if that matters to you.
I didn't notice there were 2 screws near the middle bottom of the panel so I had a fight with my monitor where I couldn't figure out why the plastic tabs weren't coming loose and letting me take off the monitor frame. So info for anyone that might be attempting this soon. 2 screws on the outer bottom edge and 2 near the stem on the back of the monitor.

(Note:Those side plates that you unscrew after opening the front bezel are hell. When you try to put the thing back together those plates just don't want to stay vertical and keep falling in. Proved to be really annoying!)

I tried to fix that backlight bleed by taping along the areas where there was visible space between the panel and the metal holder. This proved to do nothing. I'm really not sure how to approach backlight bleed that isn't actually leaking through the front of the panel. Maybe one of you can help me with that. Applying pressure to the red area of the backlight bleed appears to make it go back to a normal color, however no amount of pressure on any of the bleeding areas actually fixed the bleed even temporarily.

Next up was trying to fix the play. I couldn't use the same method as listed in the OP for fixing play as his was on side. I found that there are 2 spacers at the top middle and bottom middle and direct middle of the panel. These are like styrofoam I guess and the bottom one even came all the way off (it was held on with very cheap glue). I stuck that back on and put a few layers of electrical tape on the actual spacers. (this actually helped a bit and the panel moves a little less. I may put some more on there later, but the play really isn't that big of a deal, just aesthetics.

I put the monitor back together and crossed my fingers that I hadn't screwed up anything on my monitor in this process (first time I opened up a monitor).

Yay, everything turned on fine. A little defeated that I couldn't fix that pretty apparent black light bleed, I moved on to overclocking.

I ran it at 96 hz first and it works great. When I put it up to 120 hz I got horizontal artifact bars appearing randomly. I might try some other steps later, but i'm pretty happy at 96 all the same. Any ideas on the backlight bleed?
Thanks for reading.
Edited by Quiksmage - 6/20/13 at 4:29pm
post #3354 of 25887
Quicksmage

Some BLB is fixable with the tape mod some are not. If it's caused by the light leaking through the metal frame then its fixable with the tape mod. If its caused by uneven flatness of the entire panel itself then its not fixable with the tape mod.

With that in mind sometimes the BLB is caused by the metal frame itself. After you take of the metal frame, connect the monitor and turn it on to see if there's any BLB. Sometimes it is the metal frame that is pushing up against the LCD that causes the BLB. Compare how much BLB there is with the metal frame on and off. It is safe to turn on the monitor with the black plastic and the metal frame off. With that in mind, remember there's a reason why these monitors are so cheap.
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post #3355 of 25887
About to order a Qnix... been saying that for about two weeks I know tongue.gif But there seems to be so many problems with them regarding BLB, much more than Crossovers! I'm still unsure of whether to go matte or not... I wonder if that would make a difference with BLB and how prevalent it is...
post #3356 of 25887
Originally Posted by iamwardicus

I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB
That's how I ordered my first one, couldn't sleep one Sunday night at 3am. I had looked at it on the Laptop before, when it came on, that was the default pg on explorer, so I clicked buy and went to sleep. LOL at least I remembered...maybe you do but fear of wifey installed a mental block..redface.gif
Did you remember to get a cheap or pixel perfect?
Just had a delivery on my 2nd, trying to refrain from restless nights.
Edited by monkeys - 6/20/13 at 4:02am
post #3357 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sannakji View Post

About to order a Qnix... been saying that for about two weeks I know tongue.gif But there seems to be so many problems with them regarding BLB

You and me both, im 1 click away from ordering it and have been for a few days now but seeing how people has to open it up and actually use tape to fix the BLB and the position of the panel just makes it less appealing.
I sure am in a dilemma between these 3 ->

QNIX - cheap and can do 96hz+ but bad quality, probably BLB and bad warranty.

HP ZR2740W or Asus PB278Q - Double the price, only 60hz but good quality and good warranty and if there's BLB i can easily send it back and get a new one.
Edited by Halven - 6/20/13 at 5:20am
post #3358 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by HHawk View Post

Thanks for replying, wrigleyvillain.

Yeah, I gess it will become more clear after opening. However I did find some other websites which informs you how to fix BLB. For example this one.

In general it seems you have to put electrical tape on the edge of the panel and around the metal frame. Did I understand this correctly?
Oh well, guess I will see for myself when I open it up tonight or so. Didn't have the time yesterday, had to go out for diner with the misses. smile.gif

I actually taped inside of the metal frame.
post #3359 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeys View Post

Originally Posted by iamwardicus

I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB
That's how I ordered my first one, couldn't sleep one Sunday night at 3am. I had looked at it on the Laptop before, when it came on, that was the default pg on explorer, so I clicked buy and went to sleep. LOL at least I remembered...maybe you do but fear of wifey installed a mental block..redface.gif
Did you remember to get a cheap or pixel perfect?
Just had a delivery on my 2nd, trying to refrain from restless nights.


No, i was just so tired I remember very little of that particular day of the week... It sucks.... I got a Pixel-Perfect from Green-Sum. It "arrived" in Dayton Ohio at 7am.... If it arrived tonight I'd be surprised as hell as that's a 3 hour drive... Expecting tomorrow *shrug*
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post #3360 of 25887
Yeah inside/underneath the frame...which seems a bit weird to me because where my bleed spots occur the frame appears to be much tighter/more flush against the panel. But, again, I have not actually had my frame off yet which could change my impression(s).

As to the AW review thing this just further shows that all these sellers are exactly the same outside of the quality of their units potentially. They are all "dishonest" or underhanded when such serves their interest financially. Even hulustar with one of the better reps told some dude to kick in the box and blame DHL so they would pay return shipping.

Edit: Oh it also proves they read these threads but I already pretty much knew that.
Edited by wrigleyvillain - 6/20/13 at 7:37am
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