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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 360

post #3591 of 25893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kabota View Post

got my x-star from dreamseller today at the discount price..no dead pixel and slight backlight..then found irritating problem for me...all the osd button dont work(brightness/power/vol)...even the power led not function...any advice guy..or should i send it back

The buttons not working would be a killer for me. Especially the brightness button not working. Tell the seller about the issue and ask if you can open it up without voiding warranty to see if the button wire became unplugged or something simple like that
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post #3592 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Screams View Post

Cheap price but im from UK (shipping is outragoeus for 1 cable) any Uk alternatives to not break the bank (even though monitor already accomplished that lol)

Order the Loops DVI cable from ThatCable is an UK-based company with good reputation and good products.
I ordered 2 of those cables, since I am living in the NL and selling one, but it's working flawless.
     
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post #3593 of 25893
Ordered the pixel perfect one from green-sum (it was actually the cheapest one i could find at the time). Ordered Wednesday and arrived Monday which is pretty dam good.

I do have a hot pixel about 2 inches down and 3 in from the top left which is disappointing but no other pixel issues, pretty bad back-light bleed along the bottom to the left of the logo which im hoping loosening the screws/tape-mod might fix (must remember to find the post showing how to do it)

I'm going to see what he says about the pixel as i queried this before i made the purchase.

Didn't get time to take any pictures last night but will upload some later this today.

p.s

Came with DHL and was released straight to me, will have to wait and see if they send a customs letter)
post #3594 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeameth View Post

Ordered the pixel perfect one from green-sum (it was actually the cheapest one i could find at the time). Ordered Wednesday and arrived Monday which is pretty dam good.

I do have a hot pixel about 2 inches down and 3 in from the top left which is disappointing but no other pixel issues, pretty bad back-light bleed along the bottom to the left of the logo which im hoping loosening the screws/tape-mod might fix (must remember to find the post showing how to do it)

I'm going to see what he says about the pixel as i queried this before i made the purchase.

Didn't get time to take any pictures last night but will upload some later this today.

p.s

Came with DHL and was released straight to me, will have to wait and see if they send a customs letter)
Backlight bleed to the left of the Qnix emblem is usually helped by just loosening the two middle screws..
 
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post #3595 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by General121 View Post

Not sure why all of you guys are so stuck on exactly getting 120hz haha. I mean, if you can get 110hz or 100hz, id think thats close enough to count. Besides, im sure not all of you have the full GPU power to take on that full 120hz power.


120 (and 96) being a multiple of 24. Most videos are run at around 24 fps, if you watch videos you are better off with 96 instead of 100Hz.
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post #3596 of 25893
custom letter comes prior to delivery......here i have to pay in advance, and from 1.7 we have a ******* 22% tax.
post #3597 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by arvidab View Post

120 (and 96) being a multiple of 24. Most videos are run at around 24 fps, if you watch videos you are better off with 96 instead of 100Hz.

Depends if you are NTSC or PAL format, as European PAL uses 25fps (or 24.997?) so in their case 100Hz would be the proper multiple unless they feel like doing the math and getting the exact 4x refresh rate value from tweaking stuff in CRU
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post #3598 of 25893
I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.

The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.

I ordered my pixel perfect QX2710 from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.


UPDATE:

Pre-Backlight Bleed Fix:


Post Backlight Bleed Fix:


FOLLOW THIS GUIDE FOR BLB! Comprehensive, step by step, and totally f'ing awesome! Please update post #1 with these videos. Thank you David Thomson!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huVFLCSwQzY&list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE

I followed Davids instructions until step 13. At that point I used standard electrical tape and it didn't make any difference. I was very concerned at first but I thought I should connect the monitor with the metal LCD bezel removed. Without the metal frame attached to the panel the BLB was reduced significantly. There was still some BLB but I suspected that was due to the panel sitting in the display housing without proper support. By proper support I mean the floating metal rails. Without those rails and metal frame the panel will warp slightly which looks like BLB. At this point I concluded that the metal frame was the problem like some people in this thread suggested.

Now the real question isn't "where do I put tape"? The best way I found to resolve this was first to slowly bend the metal frame with my hands so it was as flat as possible. I put it on a table and kept adjusting until only the ends were slightly elevated, damn near flat. At that point I reattached the metal frame and tested again, the BLB was back but not as pronounced. I removed the metal frame from the panel AGAIN. This time I twisted the top and bottom of the metal bezel up and away from the edges of the viewable screen area. I suspected that the edges of the metal bezel were too concave and were compressing the sides of the display, causing BLB. By twisting the bezel in the opposite direction, making the frame slightly convex in the areas with BLB (Only the top and bottom), but maintaining the perfectly flat stature of the frame I was able to get incredible results.

I hope that the frame adjustment instructions above make sense, I would have made a video but I honestly didn't think it would work. This took me over 3 hours because every time I made a change I would reconnect the monitor to test. The problem is that you don't know if it really was a success until both the metal frame and the rails are attached.

With the provided cable I can do 120hz with no artifacts. The problem now is where do I get a 25 foot ultra high quality dual link dvi cable?

I hope this helps some people. Thanks again to David Thomson for the wonderful tear down video.
Edited by pastuch - 6/26/13 at 2:15pm
post #3599 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by pastuch View Post

I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.

The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.

I ordered mine from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.

Follow what MenacingTuba did in his review. Decrease the pressure of the bezel on the panel.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1403318/qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls
post #3600 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by pastuch View Post

I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.

The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.

I ordered mine from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.

Don't fret too much man, it's fairly easily fixable.
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