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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 435

post #4341 of 25911
can anyone tell me the difference between

http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-2560x1440-DVI-Dual/dp/B00CB8RQ2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-5&keywords=x+star+monitor

and

http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Perfect-Pixel/dp/B00CB93WTY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-9&keywords=x+star+monitor

was gonna grab one of them for my gf to use but havent bought from amazon before, was just wondering if there was something i should know about them before i get one.

i know one is supposedly perfect pixel, but is there anything else thats different?
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post #4342 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

How many clicks of brightness should we use on these new ones?

Same/doesn't matter
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post #4343 of 25911
SRGB is a gamma of 2.2 but with a linear part at the dark end. It assumes a perfect black which is far from true with these monitors.

The linear part would mean darker parts are lighter with a SRGB profile, but for "true" accuracy you wouldn't want to do so without taking an ambient light measurement first. This is because stuff is produced at studio light levels (very high) and watched in relatively much lower light levels. So a gamma expansion of 1.1 is needed to make the content look as intended.

2.2^1.1 is roughly 2.4, which is why a gamma of 2.4 is recommended for SRGB playback, but if you can use SRGB profile with a light measurement so it can accurately calibrate for the SRGB standard.


And then it turns out photos are actually encoded with a gamma of 2.2, so if you want those to look right you need a different profile. doh.gif

And movies are encoded with Rec.709

And RAW photos with 1.0

And most applications aren't properly colour managed either.


At which point I gave up and did mine at 2.2 biggrin.gif which seemed like a decent compromise for most stuff.
Only thing everywhere agreed on was 120cd/m2 for brightness - 10 clicks from bottom - and I recently tried turning back up to full and that burnt my bright.
post #4344 of 25911
Hi, I recently bought the Qnix monitor and everything runs fine no problem. However I noticed that the power brick that it came with becomes extremely hot to the point where I can't keep my palm on it without pulling it away. I'm not sure if this is safe or not. I have a couple adapters from random laptop chargers that I have and was wondering if it would be okay to use any of them (probably not) but I would like to make sure in case.



post #4345 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainXIII View Post

Hi, I recently bought the Qnix monitor and everything runs fine no problem. However I noticed that the power brick that it came with becomes extremely hot to the point where I can't keep my palm on it without pulling it away. I'm not sure if this is safe or not. I have a couple adapters from random laptop chargers that I have and was wondering if it would be okay to use any of them (probably not) but I would like to make sure in case.




Honestly this happens with lots of networking equipment. At my work we have a TON of cisco routers that have power bricks that get so hot you can't touch them. These devices still last years without issue. I can understand your worrying though. I didn't like mine getting so hot either so i put it on a small metal heat rack/shelf. This should be sufficient but one could always heat bind an old CPU cooler to it LOL.
post #4346 of 25911
Are you leaving it on your carpet? If it really concerns you try leaving it on a smooth surface.

And if you just got it, try installing some ICC profiles from the first post and turning your monitor's brightness way down. That could reduce power consumption and temps, and save your eyes thumb.gif

My X-Star's power brick is different - brand is Teka (never heard of it) and is rated to 1.4A max input, but output is identical. Different input maybe because I'm in the UK?
Your laptop chargers are fine if they have the same input/output ratings as your Qnix's brick. Output is should be identical or you could damage the monitor.
post #4347 of 25911
Time to install an old h100 to the power brick biggrin.gif

That would be a mod worth posting lol
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post #4348 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

can anyone tell me the difference between

http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-2560x1440-DVI-Dual/dp/B00CB8RQ2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-5&keywords=x+star+monitor

and

http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Perfect-Pixel/dp/B00CB93WTY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-9&keywords=x+star+monitor

was gonna grab one of them for my gf to use but havent bought from amazon before, was just wondering if there was something i should know about them before i get one.

i know one is supposedly perfect pixel, but is there anything else thats different?
One seems to be a pixel perfect version. However, in my experience, pixel perfect doesn't really exist and most of the time they're not even screened. Seeing as they're the same price however, I'd go for the pixel perfect to insure replacement if there were to be a dead pixel.
    
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post #4349 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

Time to install an old h100 to the power brick biggrin.gif

That would be a mod worth posting lol

Reminds me of when my old laptop was overheating within minutes of booting. My solution was to rest it on ice packs which I constantly cycled rolleyes.gif
post #4350 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abenlog View Post

One seems to be a pixel perfect version. However, in my experience, pixel perfect doesn't really exist and most of the time they're not even screened. Seeing as they're the same price however, I'd go for the pixel perfect to insure replacement if there were to be a dead pixel.

One of the only reasons to get a perfect pixel is if your are going to get a square trade warranty with it. This is because the square trade warranty is relative to the sellers credentials for a panel to be in an acceptable condition. If you get a PP model and get a square trade the SQ warranty would then in tern cover the PP credentials thus covering dead pixels. Do remember that PP does NOT cover bright, dark and stuck pixels ONLY dead. So if the panel was not even screened and the PP was purchased along side the square trade it would be covered by square trade and an ebay seller battle would not have to ensue.

Just a little devil advocate. thumb.gif
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