Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 47

post #461 of 25892
Has anyone ran these monitors just off the mobo using HD 4000.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128547

D-Sub + DVI

with
i7 - 3770k HD 400

Will that work?
post #462 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by cor35vet View Post

Wut? You said that the burn in could be related to the PCB and I posted an article which explains that LCDs can get temporary burn in.
The Macbook Pro Retina has that problem aswell, it uses a Samsung PLS panel.
Since I allready have my monitor open I could try checking temps of the chip but I really don't think that this thing will warm up much since it's just a bypass board and doesn't do any post-processing.

Can the guy with the overclocking problem try a different DVI port or at a friends place?

Right right, but that "temporary burn in" is usually caused by either an improper signal being received, or because there is still a residual charge due to improper shutdown.

Now, the common variable as far as I can tell among people with bad "burn in" is they're all also getting monitor crashes due to overclocking.

It only makes sense that those crashes are happening at the controller level. If they were at the LCD level, you would have individual lines or pixels working while others weren't (or "normal" artifacting/scan lines), rather than entire panels crashing to black screens with sometimes some garbled static colors on some part of it.

If the pixels aren't being returned to their natural state (black) when the monitor gets shut off due to some issue at the controller level, which only occurs when overclocking, it stands to reason that the controller might be overheating due to pumping electrons through it at literally twice it's intended rate (that is, after all, what we are doing when we OC to 120hz).



At any rate, since you've already got yours open, if you could take some temps of the various chips at stock, and then at the highest overclock you can do stable, and see which ones heat up the most, that would be great. Also remember to account for ambient temps.

If it turns out I'm wrong, at least we'll know. If I'm right, well I'm sure a lot of users here would love to toss a sub $2 heatsink on a chip to get a more stable, and perhaps higher clocking panel.
Arcane
(33 items)
 
Sanctum
(9 items)
 
Fukurou
(15 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Core i7 980x GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 MSI RX 480 GAMING X 4GB MSI GeForce GTX 680 Lightning 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX T1 Intel X25-M WD Caviar Black FASS Plextor M5S 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
WD Velociraptor WD Caviar Black FALS Sony DVD Burner w/ Lightscribe LG Bluray + HDDVD 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Black Ice GTX 360 Black Ice GTX 240 Panaflo High Speed - Push-Pull w/ shrouds Windows 7 Pro (64) 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Ubuntu (64) X-Star DP2710 ASUS VK266H Black 25.5" 2ms LCD X-Armor U9BL (Mech) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA 1000 P2 Cooler Master HAF 932 Razer Deathadder Chroma Cougar Control 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
ATH-A900X Maudio AV-40 Polk PSW-10 Zalman Mic-1 (Clip-on Mic) 
AudioOtherOtherOther
Sound Blaster X7 LE Logitech G13 Wacom Intuos 3 Scythe "3-Foot Switch" 
Other
Modded PS4, PS3, Xbox 360, and Logitech PC Cont... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Ryzen 7 1700 MSI B350M Mortar Arctic RX Vega 64 G.Skill TridentZ  
Hard DriveHard DriveOSPower
Samsung EVO 960 Consatellation Windows 10 Pro Corsair HX 1050 
Case
Raijintek Aeneas White Window 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
Core i5-661 GA-H55-USB3 12GB DDR3 1333 WD Caviar Black AALS 640GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Caviar Green EARS 2TB Vertex Turbo 60GB (SSD) Samsung Blu-ray, Samsung DVD Burner H50 (With push/pull nocturas) 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Professional 64 LG 47inch LED LCD Saitek Eclipse Lite-touch Wireless Seasonic X750 Gold 
CaseAudio
CM690 II Passive bookshelfspeakers + amp. 
  hide details  
Reply
Arcane
(33 items)
 
Sanctum
(9 items)
 
Fukurou
(15 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Core i7 980x GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 MSI RX 480 GAMING X 4GB MSI GeForce GTX 680 Lightning 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX T1 Intel X25-M WD Caviar Black FASS Plextor M5S 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
WD Velociraptor WD Caviar Black FALS Sony DVD Burner w/ Lightscribe LG Bluray + HDDVD 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Black Ice GTX 360 Black Ice GTX 240 Panaflo High Speed - Push-Pull w/ shrouds Windows 7 Pro (64) 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Ubuntu (64) X-Star DP2710 ASUS VK266H Black 25.5" 2ms LCD X-Armor U9BL (Mech) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA 1000 P2 Cooler Master HAF 932 Razer Deathadder Chroma Cougar Control 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
ATH-A900X Maudio AV-40 Polk PSW-10 Zalman Mic-1 (Clip-on Mic) 
AudioOtherOtherOther
Sound Blaster X7 LE Logitech G13 Wacom Intuos 3 Scythe "3-Foot Switch" 
Other
Modded PS4, PS3, Xbox 360, and Logitech PC Cont... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Ryzen 7 1700 MSI B350M Mortar Arctic RX Vega 64 G.Skill TridentZ  
Hard DriveHard DriveOSPower
Samsung EVO 960 Consatellation Windows 10 Pro Corsair HX 1050 
Case
Raijintek Aeneas White Window 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
Core i5-661 GA-H55-USB3 12GB DDR3 1333 WD Caviar Black AALS 640GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Caviar Green EARS 2TB Vertex Turbo 60GB (SSD) Samsung Blu-ray, Samsung DVD Burner H50 (With push/pull nocturas) 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Professional 64 LG 47inch LED LCD Saitek Eclipse Lite-touch Wireless Seasonic X750 Gold 
CaseAudio
CM690 II Passive bookshelfspeakers + amp. 
  hide details  
Reply
post #463 of 25892
Is this catleap driver necessary when OCing? Im not sure if im doing it right. I've got this CUR thing more or less setup but it doesnt give me any choice other than 60Hz in nvidia control panel. However, it does work when i create a custom resolution. I cant seem to go higher than 99 though. It says that the test has failed and that the display doesnt support this refrest rate or something.


EDIT: how do i go back to windows' default calibration?
Edited by fagoatse - 5/1/13 at 3:54pm
post #464 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by fagoatse View Post

Is this catleap driver necessary when OCing? Im not sure if im doing it right. I've got this CUR thing more or less setup but it doesnt give me any choice other than 60Hz in nvidia control panel. However, it does work when i create a custom resolution. I cant seem to go higher than 99 though. It says that the test has failed and that the display doesnt support this refrest rate or something.

Make sure you are entering it right into CRU. A good check is to enter your custom resolution into CRU and then close it. After that re-open CRU and in the monitor drop down it should say "restart required" if it says that then after a reboot the higher refresh rate should be available (yes it does take a reboot for it to take effect)

Also the catleap drive is not necessary when OCing but if you want your games to recognize the extra frequency you will need it (for all intensive purposes i would say it is a must as only 2 of my games could do 120hz without it)
post #465 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

Right right, but that "temporary burn in" is usually caused by either an improper signal being received, or because there is still a residual charge due to improper shutdown.

Now, the common variable as far as I can tell among people with bad "burn in" is they're all also getting monitor crashes due to overclocking.

It only makes sense that those crashes are happening at the controller level. If they were at the LCD level, you would have individual lines or pixels working while others weren't (or "normal" artifacting/scan lines), rather than entire panels crashing to black screens with sometimes some garbled static colors on some part of it.

If the pixels aren't being returned to their natural state (black) when the monitor gets shut off due to some issue at the controller level, which only occurs when overclocking, it stands to reason that the controller might be overheating due to pumping electrons through it at literally twice it's intended rate (that is, after all, what we are doing when we OC to 120hz).



At any rate, since you've already got yours open, if you could take some temps of the various chips at stock, and then at the highest overclock you can do stable, and see which ones heat up the most, that would be great. Also remember to account for ambient temps.

If it turns out I'm wrong, at least we'll know. If I'm right, well I'm sure a lot of users here would love to toss a sub $2 heatsink on a chip to get a more stable, and perhaps higher clocking panel.

The heatsink idea is just awesome. I just got mine open and stuck a GPU chipset heatsink onto it and i am now getting a bit better uniformity from left to right. Anyone else tries this let us know because if it is repeatable (not just a lucky break on my part) it could be a fix for the uniformity/cloudy look.
post #466 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

Right right, but that "temporary burn in" is usually caused by either an improper signal being received, or because there is still a residual charge due to improper shutdown.

Now, the common variable as far as I can tell among people with bad "burn in" is they're all also getting monitor crashes due to overclocking.

It only makes sense that those crashes are happening at the controller level. If they were at the LCD level, you would have individual lines or pixels working while others weren't (or "normal" artifacting/scan lines), rather than entire panels crashing to black screens with sometimes some garbled static colors on some part of it.

If the pixels aren't being returned to their natural state (black) when the monitor gets shut off due to some issue at the controller level, which only occurs when overclocking, it stands to reason that the controller might be overheating due to pumping electrons through it at literally twice it's intended rate (that is, after all, what we are doing when we OC to 120hz).

At any rate, since you've already got yours open, if you could take some temps of the various chips at stock, and then at the highest overclock you can do stable, and see which ones heat up the most, that would be great. Also remember to account for ambient temps.
Stop talking out of your ass.
The burn in problem is in no way related to the PCB, it's tha panel itself. It also has nothing to do with overclocking.
I had burn in at 60 Hz and at 96 Hz. The Macbook Pro Retina screens have burn in aswell and the original Samsung one has aswell since it uses the same panel.

We're not pumping twice as many electrons through the monitor. The more current flows, the more electrons flow through the cable.
And increasing the frequency will most likely not increase the current, and if then only slightly.
The chip itself on the PCB is most likely running with it's own crystal on a fixed frequency and wont be influenced by a changed refresh rate.
Overclocking might make it hotter since it needs to process and send data to the panel more often but that is a minor change.
A heatsink wouldn't do a thing to overclocking, better isolation of the cables probably would.
Remember, you're overclocking the display and not the display PCB. You're just letting it display more frames in a second.
Please reread this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence

And what do you mean about the display "crashing"? Do you mean that guy which got all these lines on his one?
That monitor probably didn't go into power saving mode and started displaying crap since it got no input signal.
I've never experienced this and I run mine at 96 Hz all the time.
The display controller doesn't have any problems in my eyes.


Oh and this panel doesn't use PWM light dimming for anyone interested.
See: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm

Would be cool if this were a 10-bit panel, but you can't have everything.
post #467 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

Make sure you are entering it right into CRU. A good check is to enter your custom resolution into CRU and then close it. After that re-open CRU and in the monitor drop down it should say "restart required" if it says that then after a reboot the higher refresh rate should be available (yes it does take a reboot for it to take effect)

Also the catleap drive is not necessary when OCing but if you want your games to recognize the extra frequency you will need it (for all intensive purposes i would say it is a must as only 2 of my games could do 120hz without it)

What's this "catleap driver"? I haven't been able to find it.
post #468 of 25892
Spartan F8: Don't DirectX games use what refresh rate from Windows? Doesn't the CRU utility add the overclocked Hz to the Windows profile so they'll use it. I'm confused on why the Catleap driver is required.
post #469 of 25892
Just received my Xstar(matte) using the provided dual DVI cable since I don't have one. All I get is a blue blinking light when i turn the monitor on and get the same difference for when I keep only the power cord connected. No logo, message or light emits from the screen.. not sure if it is suppose to be like that by default. Ordered from bigclothcraft, seems like I have an entirely non-working monitor? =(
post #470 of 25892
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpak View Post

Just received my Xstar(matte) using the provided dual DVI cable since I don't have one. All I get is a blue blinking light when i turn the monitor on and get the same difference for when I keep only the power cord connected. No logo, message or light emits from the screen.. not sure if it is suppose to be like that by default. Ordered from bigclothcraft, seems like I have an entirely non-working monitor? =(

Mine wont turn on at all unless it senses a signal
Always Tinkering
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i7 4790k MSI Z97-G55 SLI XFX R9 290 Crucial Ballistix Tactical 2 x 4gb 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Seagate 7200RPM 1.5TB Noctua nh-d14 Zalman lq-310 (for GPU) sunbeamtech rheosmart 6 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 ult 64bit Gateway 24" 1080p Korean QNIX 27" 1440p Corsair K65 RGB 
PowerCase
Seasonic SS-1050XM Corsair Obsidian 750D 
  hide details  
Reply
Always Tinkering
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i7 4790k MSI Z97-G55 SLI XFX R9 290 Crucial Ballistix Tactical 2 x 4gb 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Seagate 7200RPM 1.5TB Noctua nh-d14 Zalman lq-310 (for GPU) sunbeamtech rheosmart 6 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 ult 64bit Gateway 24" 1080p Korean QNIX 27" 1440p Corsair K65 RGB 
PowerCase
Seasonic SS-1050XM Corsair Obsidian 750D 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club