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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 53

post #521 of 25901
Quote:
Originally Posted by wntrsnowg View Post

I get buzzing from the speakers when they are at high volume. I recommend to have the speakers turned all the way down and use a different audio output

I don't have my computer hooked up to my monitor, I have computer speakers. I have my volume turned all the way down. The sound is faint, but it's still there.
post #522 of 25901
Quote:
Originally Posted by dascth View Post

Oh dear, I've learned so much in the past month or so, I wonder now what I'd think if I went back knowing what I know now and went through before and after shots (the right way) with and without the electrical tape. I'm uber-conservative at claiming anything; I don't like saying something fixed something unless I absolutely know what the crap I'm talking about. I'd say that IF the electrical tape helped, it did only a little bit. I'm really having a hard time remembering what it looked like when I got it though. I'd need a really long page to cover all I think about panel warp, panel layers' gap uniformity, and case/panel assembly and how they each contribute to backlight bleed. I think we treat it very simply here, but I don't think there is a simple fix for most things in life, and this is no exception. I'd suggest just trusting yourself and taking the bezel off and scratch your head and poke around and see what you think; you might learn something too, that's another reason having this monitor is fun. Try using it with the bezel off and messing around with laying it flat on its back, pushing lightly on areas, and just getting a sense of what you think might be causing it. If you think tape will help since there's light obviously leaking somewhere, do it. Each monitor is different. If my tape helped, maybe it was because the thickness of the tape helped push down on all the other layers inside, compressing them a little on the edges, which might have prevented gaps or waviness in the diffuser layers.

The buttons do nothing, they're just parts used for monitors, some of which have actual menu and auto button controls. I've verified that the pins from these buttons go to the cable jack where there is no wire = they do nothing.

Thanks dascth.
I haven't received my monitors yet. They have made it to Singapore, still a long way to Australia.

I am pretty sure I will be taking them apart, at least remove the front bezel. I don't backlight bleed so will try initially filling the gap between the panel and metal frame to reduce it. With the cost of shipping back to Korea they are basically warranty less anyway so may as well open it up.
I was hoping they were of the inner box design where everything is attach to the front panel so so the back plastic panel can be removed as well. Then you can just mount them on a third party monitor stand. Looks like I'll have to keep the back plastic cover on though as it holds all the "guts" together.
post #523 of 25901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinru View Post

I see. 65hz doesn't work either. I can slightly see blue scan lines. 64hz worked.
I would love to know I'm doing something wrong here.
If 64 worked, but no higher, that seems to indicate a different revision of the PCB. Interesting.
post #524 of 25901
I'm at 96 hz at the moment, no lines or anything but when i try 110 hz or 120 hz is when i see the lines. I have a question though!

When putting the settings under the LCD Reduced category do i have to input every other setting including the hz? Like the horizontal and vertical lines? I also don't notice the monitor getting darker so i must be doing something wrong right?

I have a HD 5850 so could my graphic card be a potential reason why it cannot go higher than 96 hz? I'm also using stock DVI cable from the ebay seller and i'll try a monoprice cable whenever it gets delivered!

Thanks!
Edited by Jboss - 5/2/13 at 9:56pm
post #525 of 25901
I ordered my Qnix QX2710 from excellentcastle sunday night and it arrived here in Perth today. No dead or stuck pixels, and no bleed that I'm not mistaking for that normal IPS/PLS glow. It overclocked to 120Hz straight away, just went into the nvidia control panel and created a custom resolution with a 120Hz refresh rate.
post #526 of 25901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jboss View Post

I'm at 96 hz at the moment, no lines or anything but when i try 110 hz or 120 hz is when i see the lines. I have a question though!

When putting the settings under the LCD Reduced category do i have to input every other setting including the hz? Like the horizontal and vertical lines? I also don't notice the monitor getting darker so i must be doing something wrong right?

No, select LCD Reduced and enter the Hz at the bottom. The monitor really doesn't get that much darker at 96hz, especially if you are still running at full brightness (not 12 clicks up from min). If you are seeing scan lines at 110/120hz it's working.

I personally wouldn't push the monitor past 96hz.
post #527 of 25901
First Impressions (Click to show)
Just got my matte X-star, AND I AM SO HAPPY!

As I said somewhere before I have had bad experiences with internet shopping so I was very worried for getting screwed over in some way...

0 dead pixels, minimal bleeding (can only see in dark room with black screen and even then you don't notice it if you don't look for it) and the resolution is amazing!

I AM SO HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!

Can upload some pics later if you guys want to see something specific about the X-star since the majority of all coverage here is for the Qnix! smile.gif

Edit: Just overclocked it to 96 hz with no problems as well! So satisfied!!! How can I verify that it is actually showing 96 hz though? I can feel that it's smoother but maybe that's just placebo lol tongue.gif

Edit 2: the overclock definitely worked! tried panning the camera in LoL and the difference is actually bigger than I expected it to be! Just going to calibrate the screen now and then I'm set for breaking it in in a more hardcore fashion... biggrin.gif

Would you guys say that 120 hz is a large improvement as well? Not sure if I want to go for it since it has been causing issues for some. If the difference is similar to the step between 60 and 96 I am definitely up for at least trying it out though.

Alright, feels like I need to show this screen some love and make a proper post about it... So, here we go. The above was my initial post, as you can see it was not very sophisticated and did not do this beauty justice!

Packaging:

Mine came very well packaged. It was in its original box with extra foam around it to make sure it arrived safely, which it certainly did. Very few marks or scratches even on the outer foam! I ordered it last weekend (Friday after working time in Korea), and it arrived this Thursday. Nobody was home to answer the door though so UPS had to make their second attempt today, which obviously was successful.





Once I opened the box the screen greeted me... I put it aside though and investigated the other contents of the box. A manual in all Korean, a wall adapter (aka " wonplug adopter"), dvi cable, power cable+brick, and sound cable. I wont be needing the adapter but it was a nice touch to the package, and maybe it will come in handy during future travels (especially since it came with an exclusive carrying-poach!).





The stand was quite hard to attach since there was no comprehensible instructions, but eventually I managed to figure out how it was meant to be attached. I'm not sure if the method used is weird or I as a monitor layman just did not know any better... wink.gif


Sadly there was a sticker on the top left of the screen that did not look very good at all, and once removed it did leave behind some glue... Hate when that happens! That is my single biggest complaint over all though so I am certainly happy with it! smile.gif



I plugged it in and started my computer. It worked without me doing anything, from the BIOS and onward. Windows automatically set the screen resolution, so I did not need to worry about that.

Once into the operative system I booted up tha interwebz and ran tests to check for dead pixels and bleeding. No dead pixels and minimal bleeding! Did not read the post about how to photograph bleeding yet and don't really care much about it since it does not worry me, but as you can see in this picture there is some bleeding in the bottom of the screen. Fixable, maybe, but it does not bother me to that degree. The image also makes it look a little worse than it actually is!



Calibration time! Since I am one of those lucky kids with a cool calibration device (Spyder 4 Pro), I decided to run a full calibration. The results were good, though the changes minimal (made the screen a little warmer).

Overclocking time! I was a little tense over this part (did not read much about the process beforehand, only that it had caused some problems for people), but once reading all the instructions I realized that it was pretty darn simple. Said and done, the screen now ran at 96 hz a few minutes later. Booted up League of Legends to see if there was any noticeable difference, and there was definitely! Panning the camera is a lot smoother on 96 hz than it is on the good ole 60. Not sure if I should make an attempt at 120 hz or not. Would you fellas recommend it?

After verifying that the overclocking did work, I ran a calibration again since the screen had changed from the overclocking. The brightness had dropped by 9 cd/m^2, did not check anything more besides that. To be honest I'm not very much into all this calibration stuff, even though I have had my calibration device for soon one year...

Either way, this is where I'm at at the moment. Extremely satisfied with my purchase! Felt it was a bit of a gamble to order an X-star since not many had done it (I think I was the tenth person in this thread), in addition to playing on the dead pixel, bleeding and overclocking lotto! Now I am to enjoy this bad boy throughout the entire weekend.

Full setup:




Edited by MrGreenankle - 5/3/13 at 9:24am
post #528 of 25901
Going to 120Hz from 96Hz is about the same leap as is going to 96Hz from 60Hz. So yes, 120Hz is definetly worth it if your monitor doesn't give out bad signal at 120hz, like scanlines or jitter or deformity in colours or something else.
post #529 of 25901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwinston View Post

For those who have opened up the monitor, is it possible to remove the silver frame to apply electrical tape without taking out the whole panel?

Anyone?

Also I am confused about brightness click "instructions". As there is no OSD to tell you how do I know what is the "bottom"?
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(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Core i5 4690K  Gigabyte Z97 UD3H EVGA 670 FTW 4GB EVGA 670 FTW 4GB 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
16GB Samsung Green 30nm  Samsung 850 512GB Asus Blu Ray Burner Custom Water 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 QX2710 PLS 27" Matte Ducky DK9008G2 MX Black Seasonic SS-760XP2 
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Enthoo Pro Steelseries Sensei Raw Frost Blue Asus Xonar DX Logitech Z-5500 
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post #530 of 25901
Quote:
Originally Posted by CptKuolio View Post

Going to 120Hz from 96Hz is about the same leap as is going to 96Hz from 60Hz. So yes, 120Hz is definetly worth it if your monitor doesn't give out bad signal at 120hz, like scanlines or jitter or deformity in colours or something else.

60 to 96 is a 40% increase where as 96 to 120 is only a 25% increase. Sure noticeable, but the biggest jump comes from 60 to 96.
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