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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 538

post #5371 of 25903
Quote:
Originally Posted by fifty View Post

guys are all the codes/labels of the qnix 2710 all the same model (there are whqd, whqd without samsung label, PLS, samsung from the same seller on ebay)? is also the display port model able to overclock as well?

No only single DVI models can OC and thats not just these PLS. Has to do with more input lag.
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post #5372 of 25903
Hi,


Update from my previous post:

1. I installed the NVidia full patch 1.2
2. Used CRU to put in the frequencies as native in NVCP. Now in the NVCP it has 3 light band colors on right pane. Is this normal?

However the Aero Theme Desktop transparent bar and windows has changed to a fix solid color bar. I can't get it to become transparent as what an Aero Theme suppose to be.

But good news is that most games tested can be played smoothly from 96hz to 120hz. It just that I don't quite like the non-aero transparent color bar desktop experience. I tried reactivated in the 'Personalization' section but still couldn't activate the Aero Theme. Did I missed out anything?

Update:

I have figure out why there is no Aero theme, under the NVCP if I select refresh rate under the native to higher than 60hz. The color depth goes to 16bit instead of 32bit. But if I choose custom for 97hz to 120hz, the color depth can stay at 32bit. Aero theme then can be activated. Is this what suppose to happen? I have tried to play SC2 and it's good to go, there is no sudden stutter/lag.

Thoughts: Even though I am using GTX 690 I still need to put in the patch. I believe there is still a cap limitation without the patch that is if I activate the multi-gpu configuration by selecting 'Maximized 3D performance'. It seem that it function like SLI, so patch is still needed. But how does CRU affect the whole, that I don't know for sure. Now that NVCP has the native to select all the 96hz to 120hz but cannot go with 32bit color depth. Due to frustration, I just add in the custom in NVCP and select the Refresh Rate at the custom side and that allow the 32bit to stay. So, I don't really know if CRU has any effect on the whole. Unless I revert back from beginning and just put in the patch and select refresh rate in custom, without the CRU. That's only if I have time to test it out.




Stylook.jpg 413k .jpg file
Edited by Stylook - 8/7/13 at 10:24am
post #5373 of 25903
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

No only single DVI models can OC and thats not just these PLS. Has to do with more input lag.
Ah many thanks
And which one should i get, or better, which one is the better ?
Thank you
post #5374 of 25903
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMfanatic View Post

So this is what I have done since the last post:

Set my refresh rate back to 60hz and set everything else back to normal
Uninstall my previous Nvidia drivers (they were pretty old, 310~ish
Reinstall latest WHQL drivers (320.49 i believe)
Reinstall ToastyX's latest Nvidia patch (1.2)

This time, I was able to make a custom resolution profile in Nvidia control panel and set the refresh rate to 96 hz, but the same thing happens: grey artifacts on boot that can only be solved by unplugging and replugging my DVI cable. Honestly, at this point it seems like a cable problem.

A side issue is the profiles created from CRU not showing up in Nvidia control panel no matter what I do. Tried unchecking include extension block and all but it seems like nothing gets my CRU custom resolutions to get picked up by Nvidia control panel.

Yeah I guess a cable is the best thing you can try now. This doesn't happen at 60hz? Did you try any other refresh rates for the hell of it?

Regarding CRU, the only thing I can think to suggest is be sure you're running it as an administrator. Otherwise, I'd go through the pages of the official CRU thread and see if anyone else has the same issue.
post #5375 of 25903
Quote:
Originally Posted by fifty View Post

Ah many thanks
And which one should i get, or better, which one is the better ?
Thank you

Price and seller is really the only other major consideration (you want matte unless you have no windows at all where your PC is). Stay away from Dream-seller; maybe AccessoriesWhole or Hulustar or Green-Sum. Can find much more overall general info in Post #1 of this thread.
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post #5376 of 25903
So the tape mod in the OP is pretty vauge. I've watched the videos on youtube and they seem complicated since he shows every little thing. After taking off the bezel how much more work do you have to do to apply the tape method to the frame?
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post #5377 of 25903
Quote:
Originally Posted by exzacklyright View Post

So the tape mod in the OP is pretty vauge. I've watched the videos on youtube and they seem complicated since he shows every little thing. After taking off the bezel how much more work do you have to do to apply the tape method to the frame?

I might be wrong but I believe you just reassemble it after putting the tape around the edge. It just adds a little more thickness to the foam lining that's already there making it harder for the backlight to bleed through.
post #5378 of 25903
Well I had my bezel open but did not remove the metal frame. Seemed to me that would be the delicate part. Upon getting it off the panel some have found it is noticeably bent so they also straightened with a roller on a flat surface in addition to taping the back side of it (so tape ultimately lies between the frame and the panel itself). OP "vague" partly because the taping part is much more trial-and-errorish, really, as it depends on your frame etc. One key is to put the frame back on and fire the thing up a few times as you are doing the tape part to see the effect, if any, it is having.

There are other posts with more info but they are buried now. Maybe search "tape" though that might find a ton.
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post #5379 of 25903
to be honest i dont think a tape mod is necessary to get rid of the blb. for me the blb was caused by the metal frame being bent inwards causing a pinch where the led would illuminate dispersing it on the screen. just disassemble the monitor to the point you can remove the metal frame that houses the panel. put the frame on the flat surface. get a rubber mallet or hammer and straighten it flat
post #5380 of 25903
Thread Starter 
Im pretty sure that with the tape mod, ive never done it before, you tape the front of the metal bezel and tension it to the backside such that the metal bezel is being pulled away from the screen (reducing BLB). correct me if im wrong
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