Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 568

post #5671 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

Mine does the same thing..

Oh ok, guess it's a normal thing then....
Gaming rig
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 @ 3.8GHz GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ACX CORSAIR DOMINATOR 12GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, SSD Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB Windows 8 Pro QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair K70 CORSAIR-HX 1050W Antec 1200 Razar Deathadder 3.5G 
Audio
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
Gaming rig
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 @ 3.8GHz GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 EVGA GTX 780 SC w/ACX CORSAIR DOMINATOR 12GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, SSD Western Digital VelociRaptor 300GB Windows 8 Pro QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair K70 CORSAIR-HX 1050W Antec 1200 Razar Deathadder 3.5G 
Audio
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5672 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by 187x View Post

Oh ok, guess it's a normal thing then....
How is the new setup playing BF3?Sorry i passed out the other night when we were playing..biggrin.gif
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
I5-3570k at 4.5ghz Asus Sabertooth His ICEQ X2 Boost 7950 His ICEQ X2 Boost 7950 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair vengence Intel 330 series SSD Western digital HD LG blu ray 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H100i Win 7 home premium 64bit QNIX QX2710 OCed to 120hz Asus VE278H 27 inch 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
CM Storm TK Cherry Blue Mech Corsair AX850 CM storm stryker full tower Razer left handed death adder 3600 
Mouse PadAudioAudioOther
Razer scarab Logitech G930 wireless 7.1 Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers Kingston Hyperx ram cooler 
Other
NZXT hue case lights 
  hide details  
Reply
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
I5-3570k at 4.5ghz Asus Sabertooth His ICEQ X2 Boost 7950 His ICEQ X2 Boost 7950 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair vengence Intel 330 series SSD Western digital HD LG blu ray 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H100i Win 7 home premium 64bit QNIX QX2710 OCed to 120hz Asus VE278H 27 inch 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
CM Storm TK Cherry Blue Mech Corsair AX850 CM storm stryker full tower Razer left handed death adder 3600 
Mouse PadAudioAudioOther
Razer scarab Logitech G930 wireless 7.1 Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers Kingston Hyperx ram cooler 
Other
NZXT hue case lights 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5673 of 25887
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by 187x View Post

I been wondering about this too, mine will do the same if I turn it off from my power strip outlet that it's plug into, but it won't do that if I turn it off from the monitor and just leave the power strip on, never seen a monitor do this before.
Mine does the same thing..

Mine does it as well. From what i've heard it is some kind of test it does when first sensing power
Always Tinkering
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i7 4790k MSI Z97-G55 SLI XFX R9 290 Crucial Ballistix Tactical 2 x 4gb 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Seagate 7200RPM 1.5TB Noctua nh-d14 Zalman lq-310 (for GPU) sunbeamtech rheosmart 6 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 ult 64bit Gateway 24" 1080p Korean QNIX 27" 1440p Corsair K65 RGB 
PowerCase
Seasonic SS-1050XM Corsair Obsidian 750D 
  hide details  
Reply
Always Tinkering
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i7 4790k MSI Z97-G55 SLI XFX R9 290 Crucial Ballistix Tactical 2 x 4gb 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Seagate 7200RPM 1.5TB Noctua nh-d14 Zalman lq-310 (for GPU) sunbeamtech rheosmart 6 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 ult 64bit Gateway 24" 1080p Korean QNIX 27" 1440p Corsair K65 RGB 
PowerCase
Seasonic SS-1050XM Corsair Obsidian 750D 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5674 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by genidoi View Post

This is bizarre.

Here's some solutions I can think off of the top of my head:

Massage it out
Flip windows upside down and see if same problem occurs
Plug it into a DVD player and see if it reacts to different Colours when playing a movie.

Massaging does nothing and it's in the same spot even when windows is rotated upside down. It's definitely the monitor, the question is, does this mean bad news? Or is this just a harmless defect?

I noticed something else too, but this seems like it could be a common issue. When I overclock my monitor to 120hz, I see the background's brightness flickering on certain sites. The best examples I have are http://www.tomshardware.com/ and http://www.newegg.com/. Again it isn't all that noticeable, but when I look close enough I see these shadowy lines flickering on the background of these sites. If I reduce the overclock to 110hz, the flicker goes away. I understand the screen getting darker is common, but what about this? Haven't spotted it anywhere else besides in browser on certain websites. It's not scan lines, it's more like the screen is flickering in brightness at certain spots, causing these dark lines to appear and disappear. I don't think this is PWM.
post #5675 of 25887
Hey,

got my first QNIX yesterday and most of the setup works quite good. OC is possible to ~100 hz, 110-120 gave me some issues. I've not read all of the posts here on these 568 pages, so maybe an more experienced dude can help me with my question.

The Topic is the refresh rate in games. At the Desktop there are no problem, there are 100 Hz. If i play, for expample, Battlefield 3, there are also no problem (maybe because BF supports all refresh rates?!). But, if i play a game like Payday 2 oder CS:GO, i can see, that the refresh rate is 60. Is this, because the lack of native support of these games?

I tried overclock only with this in built-in Pixel Clock utility in Precision. I'm on the newest patched beta driver@ my GTX 780.
post #5676 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronquilent View Post

I can confirm that the QNIX has a higher native contrast ratio than my Shimians all post-calibration based on repeated colorimeter readings. The QNIX also has much less input lag than my Shimians from observation.

Mind providing some #'s? My Qnix's contrast is 1100:1 once calibrated vs. my CrossOver 2720MDP's 850:1
Dr. Tesla
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770k MSI Z87 MPOWER MAX Zotac GTX 980 Ti AMP! Extreme Patriot Viper 3 Series, Sapphire Blue Edition D... 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H80 Windows 7 Ultimate X-Star DP2710 Glossy Qnix QX2710 Matte 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Viewsonic VP2780-4K HP 25er Razer Black Widow Ultimate Antec HCP 1200w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Lian Li PC-P80 Razer Lachesis Roccat Sense Glacier Blue Beyerdynamic T90 Jubilee 
Audio
Essence HDACC 
  hide details  
Reply
Dr. Tesla
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770k MSI Z87 MPOWER MAX Zotac GTX 980 Ti AMP! Extreme Patriot Viper 3 Series, Sapphire Blue Edition D... 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H80 Windows 7 Ultimate X-Star DP2710 Glossy Qnix QX2710 Matte 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Viewsonic VP2780-4K HP 25er Razer Black Widow Ultimate Antec HCP 1200w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Lian Li PC-P80 Razer Lachesis Roccat Sense Glacier Blue Beyerdynamic T90 Jubilee 
Audio
Essence HDACC 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5677 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by txcLOL View Post

Hey,

got my first QNIX yesterday and most of the setup works quite good. OC is possible to ~100 hz, 110-120 gave me some issues. I've not read all of the posts here on these 568 pages, so maybe an more experienced dude can help me with my question.

The Topic is the refresh rate in games. At the Desktop there are no problem, there are 100 Hz. If i play, for expample, Battlefield 3, there are also no problem (maybe because BF supports all refresh rates?!). But, if i play a game like Payday 2 oder CS:GO, i can see, that the refresh rate is 60. Is this, because the lack of native support of these games?

I tried overclock only with this in built-in Pixel Clock utility in Precision. I'm on the newest patched beta driver@ my GTX 780.

Try searching for "forcing refresh rate" not only in this thread but many games have sites that relate to forcing the highest available refresh. Also if you do get to 120hz and put it as a native resolution the nvidia control panel has a "preferred refresh rate" option that appears after a driver update. This will force games that do not have a refresh rate option to use the 120hz refresh. You can find my detailed post regarding this by again searching for "force refresh rate"

Another option that has help many people is installing the catleap monitor driver or another related 120hz driver(you can easily make them with a EDID creator). You can find this by searching "catleap driver" in this thread.

Yet another option or possibility rather is checking you in game versus driver level vsync since these can not only conflict but can have issues with an OC refresh. You can find info on this by searching "vsync" in this thread.

Hopefully this gets you in the right direction and you don't mind doing some searching because all of your questions have been gone over several times and the information already posted is very detailed and helpful. Also by searching through this thread looking at my posts along with some otehr members that have been around since the beginning will be beneficial to your endeavor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by apav View Post

Massaging does nothing and it's in the same spot even when windows is rotated upside down. It's definitely the monitor, the question is, does this mean bad news? Or is this just a harmless defect?

I noticed something else too, but this seems like it could be a common issue. When I overclock my monitor to 120hz, I see the background's brightness flickering on certain sites. The best examples I have are http://www.tomshardware.com/ and http://www.newegg.com/. Again it isn't all that noticeable, but when I look close enough I see these shadowy lines flickering on the background of these sites. If I reduce the overclock to 110hz, the flicker goes away. I understand the screen getting darker is common, but what about this? Haven't spotted it anywhere else besides in browser on certain websites. It's not scan lines, it's more like the screen is flickering in brightness at certain spots, causing these dark lines to appear and disappear. I don't think this is PWM.

I have replied to your other thread you started but i am also moving it here because this is the main Qnix thread and is where this inquiry should be. I recommend looking back a few pages at the timings posts that have been going on. they will help you with the flickering. Again the weird pixel is likely not a big deal i have seen plenty of mus-behaving pixels before that never were an overall indication of failure. I think you are being a bit paranoid(no offense) due to the couple panels you went through to get a good one.

""""""""""
The flickering is a form of instability due to the excessively high pixel clock over the DVI cable. This can be fixed in two ways:
1. have a better cable
2. try manually getting the best timings and not just changing the refresh rate(which is like like just overclocking a CPU with the multiplier it works but it is definitely not even close to the best way to do it)

The "weird" pixel is not something i would worry too much about. If it was only doing it when overclocked or if it was spreading(meaning you found more over a short time) sure you might be worried. I have seen single pixels on a screen do a lot of things, more often then not it stays just on that pixel but i have never seen what you are describing though i would never likely done so much testing over a single pixel. Overall i think you are reading to much into this. Getting to 135hz without any real trial and error is a fantastic panel. We have been making some good progress in information relating to custom timings and stability over in the Qnix club that would very likely help you out on this and i recommend doing a little reading about the flickering or "scanning" you are seeing and you will likely find a way to adjust to not have to deal with it any longer like i did.
""""""""""
post #5678 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

Hopefully this gets you in the right direction

It does, thanks a lot thumb.gif
post #5679 of 25887
Can someone please tell me what the AWG is on the stock cable you get with the Qnix monitors?
Main Gaming RIG
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-4790k ASUS VII Ranger Galax hof gtx 980 ti 16GB 1600mhz adata ram 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
128GB SSD Samsung 840 evo 1TB WD blue Liteon 256GB SSD Phanteks PH-TC14PE 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 ASUS PG279Q Cooler master Quickfire XT Corsair AX850w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Air carbide 540 Steelseries Ikari Laser Steelsereies QCK+ sound Blaster Z 
Audio
Sennheiser HD 598 
  hide details  
Reply
Main Gaming RIG
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-4790k ASUS VII Ranger Galax hof gtx 980 ti 16GB 1600mhz adata ram 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
128GB SSD Samsung 840 evo 1TB WD blue Liteon 256GB SSD Phanteks PH-TC14PE 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 ASUS PG279Q Cooler master Quickfire XT Corsair AX850w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Air carbide 540 Steelseries Ikari Laser Steelsereies QCK+ sound Blaster Z 
Audio
Sennheiser HD 598 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5680 of 25887
Finally getting around to applying heatsinks been very busy. My remaining sinks were either not enough area at the base to cover the Wise View(Wise Semiconductor? Couldnt get datasheet but Ive been trying to get this all sinked up tonight so not totally exhaustive search) LRU4122MOL-Q Chips on the Inverter Board. Used Artic Alumina Epoxy on the corners with a swath of Phobya HeGrease down the middle. Both non-conductive non capacitive got alumina on the chip leads fingers crossed on fireup no pop good to go. There's room for fans in there but wiring the power would be a pain unless you had a little power brick or decide to power your entire monitor off a pc powersupply which would be dangerous if it fell off your desk. Put a sink on the chip right after the traces the DVI connector connects to got these numbers but couldn't make out the illegible logo other than its a 45 degree angle globle with latitude and longitude lines drawn on it(some kind of text in the globe looked like numbers completely impossible to makeout with longitude and latitude lines drawn over them I have a canon t4i in the box from christmas but I have yet to pull it out and play with it so I couldn't use it for this and I still dont have time for pic guides right now) (EP269 1229G M35562). Hard to find info on these asian chips very little documentation, poor company websites, and searches bring up little but sales clerks wanting to sell you a mass order. Maybe someone could get the datasheets through them....... Seems these are the 3 chips we are looking for tho maybe some of the others get hot but didnt have a chance to finger test with the monitor on to see whats hot because I couldn't find a configuration with the monitor apart where the wires between the board and panel were connected while panel on and I could touch the board without removing tape and completely adjusting the wiring(and threatening shorts on the board and metal chasis).

Im really liking this panel but the tearing really bugs me more than anything else that and I really like Sony Trinitron coloration(light bright sky blues and orangy reds vs purplish blues and maroon reds). I think the key to advancement of LCD panels lies not in further advancement of LCD technology but the 3 translucent color filters that make up the panel that the LCDs regulate light to. LG uses a color closer to old Sony Trinitron but its too bright causing a lack of contrast and black level making it look cheesy Vizio is even worse and the Sony I had to compare with wasnt knocking my socks off either so In the LCD world maybe these colors are tailored for good LCD reproduction. I've also noticed the more continuous light(I cant see any flicker) of the LCD is more natural and easier on the perception. Its hard to realize that at first coming from CRT but looking back at CRT it does look flickerish now. Tho CRT blacklevel is stellar. Digital artifacts do blow as analog artifacts you dont even see them. Ghosting tho is not a problem for me except maybe on driving games where the car adjusts very small amounts at a time centered in the screen. Then maybe it will bother you. In a FPS I really don't even realize it or notice it. I also think the flicker of Lightboost would be even worse. I think the move to LCD is about size. Size on its own even with huge ugly LCD TV bigscreen pixels can bring more perceivable resolution to an image that a smaller screen just can't show you. You will see details you couldn't' see before; Size by itself everything else being equal IS a resolution enhancement. It is innately built into our perception whether you want to argue its scientific or not.

I think the best solution for the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips is to buy some copper shims off ebay and then cut that static plastic film on the underside of the panel backer/ board protector plate and bond the copper shims to that backer plate chasis and use it as your heatsink. You could cut that backer off over the chips and put some short aluminum sinks on there too but make sure they are short because you don't have much room to play with and that space is inbetween the tension holding the panel together so anything too tall in there will probably crack that little inverter board.

Also those of you suggesting using a rolling pin to roll out the backer plate to fix out blacklight bleed or the other guy saying hed hit it with a mallet or hammer to straighten it out. *** are you talking about? Did you really do that? I think opening up the inside of the panel assembly(the part that comes from Samsung not QNIX) is asking for dust inside there(when opening and separating the panel use the enclosed bubble and plastic wrap works great to keep dust out and keep everything clean, get some gloves dont touch anything with your fingers). Maybe you could roll the whole panel along the backside with a rolling pin very carefully. I would love to see a before and after of that proving that it does indeed work. Out of all the good tweaks I've read about on this thread. Those to me now seem the most dubious.
Edited by ColdFlo - 8/14/13 at 10:03am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club