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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 645

post #6441 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt View Post

Thanks, I have it currently jury-rigged with some washers only on the top two screws and a folded piece of paper along the bottom of the mount. The people on these forums are always the most helpful!

BTW your rig is sexy gl0ry. Love the white/black theme. Was thinking about doing that when I do a custom loop in the next few months. Need to find some of those white single braided cords for my AX750 too.

Thanks very much. I have some way nicer pics that I need to update the sig rig with thumb.gif
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post #6442 of 25893
I couldnt help myself.... pulled the trigger on one of the Qnix pixel perfects from accessorieswhole. Their policy seems to be for 0 dead pixels so I figured it was worth the extra $50.

How long does Fedex normally take to deliver? Mine is currently in Incheon Sth Korea...
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post #6443 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinonprozac View Post

I couldnt help myself.... pulled the trigger on one of the Qnix pixel perfects from accessorieswhole. Their policy seems to be for 0 dead pixels so I figured it was worth the extra $50.

How long does Fedex normally take to deliver? Mine is currently in Incheon Sth Korea...

Definitely worth it, I got mine from him as well.

It took two days with UPS... that guy is fast I don't think it will take much longer than 2-3 business days.
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post #6444 of 25893
Im in Australia but I guess that is even closer than the US smile.gif

It was posted on Tuesday but says it wont arrive until Monday on the Fedex tracking frown.gif
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post #6445 of 25893
Got mine yesterday and ordered last week Tuesday (27/08/2013) No dead pixels with the tests and minimal BLB, bought from accessorieswhole. with stock cable I'm pulling 96hz stable. Cranked up to 120hz it starts to artifact. Too lazy to shift through 644 pages. But I ordered a 2 meter 24AWG cable (I think the stock cable is 28AWG) Would that make the difference between 96hz and 120 hz Stable?
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post #6446 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlw777 View Post

Got mine yesterday and ordered last week Tuesday (27/08/2013) No dead pixels with the tests and minimal BLB, bought from accessorieswhole. with stock cable I'm pulling 96hz stable. Cranked up to 120hz it starts to artifact. Too lazy to shift through 644 pages. But I ordered a 2 meter 24AWG cable (I think the stock cable is 28AWG) Would that make the difference between 96hz and 120 hz Stable?

From my research it was concluded in this thread that cable size didn't matter.

Not to say trying a different cable wouldn't make a difference, but a thicker cable doesn't give you any better of an overclock, in fact someone said it gave him worse performance.
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post #6447 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by gl0ry View Post

From my research it was concluded in this thread that cable size didn't matter.

Not to say trying a different cable wouldn't make a difference, but a thicker cable doesn't give you any better of an overclock, in fact someone said it gave him worse performance.

This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.

With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.

Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.

After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.

Hope this pinpoints this topic and clears up some mis-information. thumb.gif
post #6448 of 25893
This is the video of my screen problem that I have had to make for the Ebay seller. Hopefully after this return will be prompt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_tz3hS3zV8&feature=youtu.be
post #6449 of 25893
New club member checking in smile.gif

Bought it from accesorieswhole, it arrived in Norway after 6 days with Fedex on the door. Seller had very quick shipping and communication, price was fair.
It arrived well-packaged (seriously, they had like a whole roll of tape on it). It's perfectly stable on it's stand, better than my old Samsung monitor anyway, but I long for my Dell Ultrasharp stand.

No backlight bleed, no dead pixels of any kind, but if the monitor dispalys all white, you can see a scratch in the panel at the lower right area quite visible. Wasn't able to take a pic of it, and it can't be seen with any other colors on.
Quickly overclocked to 96hz with no problems, today I tried 120hz also. Did the test on testufo.com. Took a pic with my DSLR on 1/4 shutter speed, and it came out like this:



This imeans everything is all good, right? smile.gif
post #6450 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.

With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.

Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.

After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.

Hope this pinpoints this topic and clears up some mis-information. thumb.gif

Wow, awesome information, thank you. I had bought the Monoprice 24AWG right after I purchased the X-Star, I didn't realize it would be the thickness of a garden hose. I figured 3ft is way too short and needed something bigger, but i get horizontal static lines when I go to the Windows 8 start screen.

Of course the stock cable seems to work better but I'm still not getting 120hz, I still get the horizontal lines but they seem to be less. I tried using the "reduced LCD" timings at 120hz with the CRU program and it worked but after about an hour or so the lines came back, not as bad but still there. Do you think I'm getting some sort of interference? Any advise on hitting 120hz? Its kinda weird that it worked for a while and the lines just came back out of nowhere.

Right now, I'm on 115hz and it seems to be fine, in your experience(you seem to have a lot) do you think I should push it to like 118hz or 119hz? Or should I switch to 110hz, 100hz, etc. What I'm trying to say, is there a sweet spot if I'm having issues with 120hz or is the hz higher the better? Is it better to be on an even number or something like that? redface.gif

Thanks to anyone who has advise. thumb.gif I've been reading through the thread but its a ton of info to take in.

EDIT: I also ran a test with the reduced timings at 120hz on the TestUFO frame skipping test and everything was valid and the pic i took looked good, no skipped frames or anything. But after a while I started getting those lines and went back down a few hz.
Edited by skilly - 9/4/13 at 8:09am
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