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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 646

post #6451 of 25893
Some say the thicker cables are better for OCing, but only by a few hz at most. For me, i tried 2 24AWG cables, and neither out performed the included 28AWG cable - both could hit 115, but the 28 gauge was the only able able to do 117hz.
post #6452 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomKPZ View Post

So I got my monitor today. Looks great, OCs to 120Hz with little issue. However, after running on 120 for a while, I noticed some burn, so I ran a burn fixer (video that flashes red, green, blue), and now I see some dead/suck pixels. I didn't even know that was possible. Does anyone know what I can do???

Didn't know what was possible? If they are just stuck they will probably work themselves out over time or are methods to unstick them similar to the thing you ran for the image retention (it's not actually "burn"..but maybe you should just lay off for now and use it "normally" for awhile). On that note, the retention spots go away over time too without trying to force it away. Dead are dead and appear black (have no light).
Edited by wrigleyvillain - 9/4/13 at 9:13am
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post #6453 of 25893
So these koreans PLS monitors do not have a VESA mount?
    
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post #6454 of 25893
Yes on the rear. Shallow holes but all standard.
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post #6455 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by skwannabe View Post

So these koreans PLS monitors do not have a VESA mount?
Yes VESA 100
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post #6456 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

Didn't know what was possible? If they are just stuck they will probably work themselves out over time or are methods to unstick them similar to the thing you ran for the image retention (it's not actually "burn"..but maybe you should just lay off for now and use it "normally" for awhile). On that note, the retention spots go away over time too without trying to force it away. Dead are dead and appear black (have no light).

I've gotten temporary burn in from my previous IPS screens. It's never permanent and a minor irritation that usually only happens when at high brightness. Not sure if PLS screens are susceptible but I don't see why not since they are so similar
post #6457 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by skilly View Post

Wow, awesome information, thank you. I had bought the Monoprice 24AWG right after I purchased the X-Star, I didn't realize it would be the thickness of a garden hose. I figured 3ft is way too short and needed something bigger, but i get horizontal static lines when I go to the Windows 8 start screen.

Of course the stock cable seems to work better but I'm still not getting 120hz, I still get the horizontal lines but they seem to be less. I tried using the "reduced LCD" timings at 120hz with the CRU program and it worked but after about an hour or so the lines came back, not as bad but still there. Do you think I'm getting some sort of interference? Any advise on hitting 120hz? Its kinda weird that it worked for a while and the lines just came back out of nowhere.

Right now, I'm on 115hz and it seems to be fine, in your experience(you seem to have a lot) do you think I should push it to like 118hz or 119hz? Or should I switch to 110hz, 100hz, etc. What I'm trying to say, is there a sweet spot if I'm having issues with 120hz or is the hz higher the better? Is it better to be on an even number or something like that? redface.gif

Thanks to anyone who has advise. thumb.gif I've been reading through the thread but its a ton of info to take in.

EDIT: I also ran a test with the reduced timings at 120hz on the TestUFO frame skipping test and everything was valid and the pic i took looked good, no skipped frames or anything. But after a while I started getting those lines and went back down a few hz.

1. This is likely a matter of stability rather than interference as not all stability issues can be immediately seen

2. I would advise you shuffle you variables. Your main points of experimentation are:
.A: the cable(pretty much coovered in my last post)
.B: The port on your video card. I have SLI and my second cards lower port gave the best results by about 3hz
.C: The video card itself. Many have reported including myself that the 7xx nvidia series has given better results.
.D: setup, meaning drivers, monitor driver installation, proper driver patching.
.E: Timings. Any auto timing setting is never going to be as good as manually testing to find the best possible pixel clock. Many people have gotten as low as 450Mhz where auto keeps you around 470Mhz. This can make a big difference even 5-20hz. Try searching "front porch" in this thread as i have already gone into doing this manually in length. Also take a look at toastyx's forum lots of good info there.

3. If you are already at 115hz without extensive cable and timings testing i would say you should be able to get 120hz or higher with some reading and effort.

4. I don't ever recommend clocking back until all variables are exhausted. We are on an overclocking forum go for broke first then play it safe for the long term

5. A sweet spot is when you can maintain a refresh without issues. With all the different variables this is going to be a moving number depending on how well each piece of the puzzle performs and every panel is different.

6. Even number is not the concern. The only refresh number i would be interested in is keeping a multiple of 24hz to match main stream video content which is standard at 24fps(or 23.997). Kepping refresh at a multiple will decrease the pull down effect. If you are not worried about this then don't worry about any odd number framerate.

It is a lot to take in but you will get there thumb.gif
post #6458 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

...............................H.....................V
Active pixels...2560...............1440
Front porch.......48.....................2
Sync width.........32.....................2
Total pixels.....2595...............1444
(this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
Pixel clock@120hz..............449Mhz (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
Pixel clock@152hz..............569Mhz
...................................................^
this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)

Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get 4476x2342@30hz with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.

Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh thumb.gif

EDIT: Fixed weird space removal

That worked perfect. I'm now at 120hz (459.86mhz) I used 2652x1445 total pixels cause I'm still using the stock cable. Whats the difference if I used 2560x1440 total pixels?

Since the mhz is lower are we losing anything by adjusting the timings like this? Is it still truly 120hz? biggrin.gif

Now lets see if it sticks, cause I had 120hz with "lcd reduced" but eventually it started showing the lines. *fingers crossed*

Thank you very much! thumb.gif

EDIT: It's been about an hour and a half and its been working flawlessly. Thanks again! Gonna hit the front page and report a successful 120hz OC.. biggrin.gifthumb.gif
Edited by skilly - 9/4/13 at 2:17pm
post #6459 of 25893
Hey, just curious, for those of you with the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II monitor, what are your brightness settings set at?


Because there is no on screen display, I counted how many times you can push the button to go from least brightness to full brightness, and I got 29, so I have set mine at about 17-19, which is a little brighter than halfway... but I'm not sure this is the optimal setting. Any thoughts? Also, should I be color calibrating this through software? I know I saw some software preset files on the first page but had not considered adjusting it yet.
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post #6460 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by skilly View Post

That worked perfect. I'm now at 120hz (459.86mhz) I used 2652x1445 total pixels cause I'm still using the stock cable. Whats the difference if I used 2560x1440 total pixels?

Since the mhz is lower are we losing anything by adjusting the timings like this? Is it still truly 120hz? biggrin.gif

Now lets see if it sticks, cause I had 120hz with "lcd reduced" but eventually it started showing the lines. *fingers crossed*

Thank you very much! thumb.gif
I also want to know what would happen if I put total pixels at 2560 x 1440. I don't want to down sample.
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