Originally Posted by skilly
Wow, awesome information, thank you. I had bought the Monoprice 24AWG right after I purchased the X-Star, I didn't realize it would be the thickness of a garden hose. I figured 3ft is way too short and needed something bigger, but i get horizontal static lines when I go to the Windows 8 start screen.
Of course the stock cable seems to work better but I'm still not getting 120hz, I still get the horizontal lines but they seem to be less. I tried using the "reduced LCD" timings at 120hz with the CRU program and it worked but after about an hour or so the lines came back, not as bad but still there. Do you think I'm getting some sort of interference? Any advise on hitting 120hz? Its kinda weird that it worked for a while and the lines just came back out of nowhere.
Right now, I'm on 115hz and it seems to be fine, in your experience(you seem to have a lot) do you think I should push it to like 118hz or 119hz? Or should I switch to 110hz, 100hz, etc. What I'm trying to say, is there a sweet spot if I'm having issues with 120hz or is the hz higher the better? Is it better to be on an even number or something like that?
Thanks to anyone who has advise.
I've been reading through the thread but its a ton of info to take in.
EDIT: I also ran a test with the reduced timings at 120hz on the TestUFO frame skipping test and everything was valid and the pic i took looked good, no skipped frames or anything. But after a while I started getting those lines and went back down a few hz.
1. This is likely a matter of stability rather than interference as not all stability issues can be immediately seen
2. I would advise you shuffle you variables. Your main points of experimentation are:
.A: the cable(pretty much coovered in my last post)
.B: The port on your video card. I have SLI and my second cards lower port gave the best results by about 3hz
.C: The video card itself. Many have reported including myself that the 7xx nvidia series has given better results.
.D: setup, meaning drivers, monitor driver installation, proper driver patching.
.E: Timings. Any auto timing setting is never going to be as good as manually testing to find the best possible pixel clock. Many people have gotten as low as 450Mhz where auto keeps you around 470Mhz. This can make a big difference even 5-20hz. Try searching "front porch" in this thread as i have already gone into doing this manually in length. Also take a look at toastyx's forum lots of good info there.
3. If you are already at 115hz without extensive cable and timings testing i would say you should be able to get 120hz or higher with some reading and effort.
4. I don't ever recommend clocking back until all variables are exhausted. We are on an overclocking forum go for broke first then play it safe for the long term
5. A sweet spot is when you can maintain a refresh without issues. With all the different variables this is going to be a moving number depending on how well each piece of the puzzle performs and every panel is different.
6. Even number is not the concern. The only refresh number i would be interested in is keeping a multiple of 24hz to match main stream video content which is standard at 24fps(or 23.997). Kepping refresh at a multiple will decrease the pull down effect. If you are not worried about this then don't worry about any odd number framerate.
It is a lot to take in but you will get there