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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 663

post #6621 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdFlo View Post

So you guys just meant the internal panel metal frame "bezel" part to be rolled. Ok see I thought you guys meant the tray part removing all those internal light diffuser plastic sheets which would introduce allot of dust via static attraction when you disassembled the panel in the internal lighted portion where you wouldn't want to even have to clean anything introducing defects and streaks let alone introduce dust inbetween these sheets where it would be visible and impossible to clean. Ok I think I'll try that again next time I go internal. See all the answers we need to fix these panels are simple its just a matter of nailing down the process to do the fix while disrupting(or breaking) the panel as little as possible. Even voltmods are simple its just a matter of knowing the steps. Penciling resistors is even easier. It may not be completely necessary but I would still like to have an EDID modeled or copied from the ASUS PB278Q(maybe we need to find someone with one of these panels and get them to give us their EDID info from a reader prog).

Just ordered some DIY audio grade wire(some nice solder, connectors, wiring harni; gonna do a total interal pc wiring functional upgrade short of the PSU) and got a cheap Razer Taipan(40 bucks new in box) off ebay so I have some hardware modding to do in the near future. Still need some multicore silver wire to make my own sata cables. My huge copper shims should be in soon to make some heatsinks with those Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q inverter chips on the back of the internal panel assembly using the back metal cover as the heatsink coupled to the chips via copper shims I got the big 42mm ones off ebay and I ordered 6 to make sure I got the proper height(most likely overkill but considering the price this monitor cost and what its worth(over 1000 dollars easily)). Thats another thing to remember if these monitors were sold in the USA they would be over 1000 dollars retail easily maybe even 1500 for the 110hz or higher. Who cares about the case and bezel it doesnt matter and really the QNIX pcb is really not all that bad either. HDMI is crap(does it have HDMI from slickdeals is a feature for fools). I had these debates when HDMI came out and I took the stance that Patrick Norton and others did that HDMI was inferior(inferior resolution especially on introduction fewer conductors and audio on the same cable). 125hz Crossover is a development. I bet Shimian and Crossover are now all going to follow the lead.

I am convinced that the reason for this recent jump in resolution and really who we have to thank for all this technology is RED Camera and their introduction of cheap 4k necessitating asia to release 4k(ahead of the schedule the MPAA wants which is the reason the United States lagged behind Japan for what 30 or 40 years with HD technology; I hope this time Hollywood and TV are dragged along to conform and resolution just continually increases until we have the wall sized panels from The Running Man) which is Quad Full HD or Ultra HD, causing the release of Wide Quad HD(2560x1440)(2560x1600 resolution is worthless 16:10 is an inferior aspect ratio and the extra pixels only weigh down the gpu even more) which is perfect for us and the current state of graphics card processing power. Now OLED is introduced, 4K laser projectors from both RED and LG and more than likely SONY, Panasonic is retooling their entire line for 3d 4k OLED printing to maintain panel dominance(now that Kuro and infinite black technology(only introduced on a few prototype panels from the release Kuro line) is out of the picture and really must be displaced by OLED now but I have yet to read comparisons or see pics) setting the stage for the next jump in panel technology making these WQHD the perfect stepping stones until that time comes.

And it's for that reason we should stay tuned for a 4k 120hz variant of something like the Qnix from over there.
post #6622 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinonprozac View Post

Hey guys,

Just got my Qnix setup last night and I am happy to say I had no dead or stuck pixels but did have quite a lot of backlight bleed. I followed an online tutorial on how to do the tape fix which has fixed the worst area of the bleed quite well. The problem is I now have this massive darker area at the bottom left hand corner of the screen (this area was previously fine).

I taped the entire thing to begin with but after noticing the dark area when I plugged it back in I decided to remove the tape from that area. Unfortunately this has not helped.

I REALLY hope someone could shed some light into what could cause this as I would trade the bleed I had before for this black area I have now.

photo attached -


Can anyone shed some light on what could of possibly caused the issue I am having?

I really want to get this fixed frown.gif
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post #6623 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post

Check just a few pages back for overclocking tips that were linked to and repeated over and over.

I can't find it frown.gif
Can you point me in the right direction?
post #6624 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Net200777 View Post

And it's for that reason we should stay tuned for a 4k 120hz variant of something like the Qnix from over there.

Due to bandwidth limitations this is going to take a while. Not so much for 60hz but anything higher WILL hit a wall with cabling bandwidth among many other bottlenecks. 4K@120hz would also be very hard to maintain even with today's most pricy GPUs even for older games due to 4K@120hz being just over double the processing data as 1440p(4K@60 being just over equal to 1440p@120hz). There are a lot of new products that will make it possible though(HDMI 2.0, SSDs, Maxwell series GPUs, etc) but they are just not here yet. Even a Titan GPU can have problems rendering some games at 1440p and maintaining 120fps(much less 241hz for people who like to frame double to reduce input lag to visual association). Until GPUs and other hardware get to a point that i can double my framerate per my refresh at 1440p i will likely stay put. Also many 4K variants so far do not offer the color reproduction benefits of PLS and IPS displays. This is what makes the Qnix such a future proof display. It is just going to be a long time before anything over 1440p will catch up in specs and more importantly price.

EDIT: This is why if a 4K@120hz will likely not show up for a while until other factors of hardware catch up to be able to support it (Display ports might be able to do just over 60hz depending on the PCB and controller board).
Edited by Spartan F8 - 9/7/13 at 4:56pm
post #6625 of 25892
Yeah resolution is the real killer in games. I think it will take even longer than 4 years for GPUs to get on that level(unless AMD really does pull 4000 cores here in a couple months but I doubt it(this will be the big thing to pay attention to read the release rumors and try to get the one that sounds realistic so you can sell cards and upgrade if you think the new ATI is the solid leader by my calculations the ATI will need at least 3000 cores to beat the 780). 2560x1080 is interesting(but what is the refresh rate usually retail monitors are locked to 60hz) not sure if 1080 is enough vertical resolution for sitting close but I really do like a wide aspect ratio. I can't wait till displays are the same aspect ratio as movies really instead of 4096 or 3840 x 2160(4K,WQFHD,UHD) I would like to see more horizontal resolution and less vertical(6144x1440? No dummy(me) lets use math!, 4096x2160=8847360 almost 9MPixel; 2.4x * x = 8847360; 8847360/2.4 = 3686400 take square root =s 1920 =s 4608x1920 seems like the perfect resolution for movies); the difference between 1440 and 2160 would probably be minimal on a computer monitor but for a big 80 inch TV it would be a big difference in pixel cohesion.

Spartan is also right cables are a limitation, pixel clock chips are a limitation, GPUs are a limitation. My God CRT was not at all limited by the CRT technology but the internal digital boards. Really someone needs to just start designing highly over specd GHZ level display chips. Its ridiculous to think these display chips are so slow yet the one in your smartphone is much faster.

trippinonprozac go back a few pages there are pics on how to fix the internal panel frame bezel couple that with the breakdown youtube videos from Datsch in the first post and pictures and listen to his electric tape fix as well. Your problem is called Back Light Bleed(BLB) its because your LCD panel(that actual layer) is off angle allowing light to come through at an improper angle to the polarizing film that is supposed to act in concert to block the light(or on a white google search home page the effect is reversed). The metal frame of the internal panel is bent you will have to open up the panel and fix the frame to get your LCD film layer to lie perfectly flat fixing your light bleed problem. Also show us a black screen so we can see if its bent because you have a white screen there it could also be that internal led edge lighting strip has some dead leds on one side(tho we have never seen a pic of this so its impossible to be sure you would think the diffusers would still distribute the light better than that even with some dead leds.).
Edited by ColdFlo - 9/7/13 at 8:23pm
post #6626 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinonprozac View Post

Can anyone shed some light on what could of possibly caused the issue I am having?

I really want to get this fixed frown.gif

Have you taken the bezel off yet? Either take it apart to try to find the cause or rma it. Amazon has an a to z claim department, can't go wrong there.
post #6627 of 25892
Question: If buying from Ebay or Amazon, do you have to pay customs or is it all provided within their prices? I'm planning on getting one of these once my 2 IPS monitors sell and I'd like to know if I need a higher budget from the ~$300 price.
    
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post #6628 of 25892
I paid 300$ shipped, it arrived in one day.
post #6629 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Net200777 View Post

Have you taken the bezel off yet? Either take it apart to try to find the cause or rma it. Amazon has an a to z claim department, can't go wrong there.

You must not of read the original post...

I removed the bezel to fix some backlight bleed and thats when this happened. The monitor did not have the dark spot when I first got it. Something I did must of caused it.

It was bought from Korea too, not Amazon.
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post #6630 of 25892
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinonprozac View Post

You must not of read the original post...

I removed the bezel to fix some backlight bleed and thats when this happened. The monitor did not have the dark spot when I first got it. Something I did must of caused it.

It was bought from Korea too, not Amazon.


Hmmm well if you can't fix it rma it.
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