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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 670

post #6691 of 25893
I have recently stumbled upon this review and it sparked my interest in korean monitors:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/achieva_27_ips-zero-g.htm

It praised this monitor highly however the biggest issue was the lack of backlight control. Do these panels suffer from these issue as well?
post #6692 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semus View Post

I ordered mine from Amazon.com.

Which seller? I ordered mine through Amazon also, but the specific seller was MNW GLOBAL.
post #6693 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by odds View Post

Which seller? I ordered mine through Amazon also, but the specific seller was MNW GLOBAL.

Ah yes, it was MNW Global indeed.
post #6694 of 25893
I just got my Qnix 2710 screen today..how do I OC it? it doesn't give me an option of over 60Hz.
post #6695 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

1. This is likely a matter of stability rather than interference as not all stability issues can be immediately seen

2. I would advise you shuffle you variables. Your main points of experimentation are:
.A: the cable(pretty much coovered in my last post)
.B: The port on your video card. I have SLI and my second cards lower port gave the best results by about 3hz
.C: The video card itself. Many have reported including myself that the 7xx nvidia series has given better results.
.D: setup, meaning drivers, monitor driver installation, proper driver patching.
.E: Timings. Any auto timing setting is never going to be as good as manually testing to find the best possible pixel clock. Many people have gotten as low as 450Mhz where auto keeps you around 470Mhz. This can make a big difference even 5-20hz. Try searching "front porch" in this thread as i have already gone into doing this manually in length. Also take a look at toastyx's forum lots of good info there.

3. If you are already at 115hz without extensive cable and timings testing i would say you should be able to get 120hz or higher with some reading and effort.

4. I don't ever recommend clocking back until all variables are exhausted. We are on an overclocking forum go for broke first then play it safe for the long term

5. A sweet spot is when you can maintain a refresh without issues. With all the different variables this is going to be a moving number depending on how well each piece of the puzzle performs and every panel is different.

6. Even number is not the concern. The only refresh number i would be interested in is keeping a multiple of 24hz to match main stream video content which is standard at 24fps(or 23.997). Kepping refresh at a multiple will decrease the pull down effect. If you are not worried about this then don't worry about any odd number framerate.

It is a lot to take in but you will get there thumb.gif

Oh oh.. Looks like even with the front porch method my monitor still cant fully handle 120hz.. (didnt test new cable or GPU yet though). Everything has been working flawless for about 5 days that I noticed, GPU intensive games, web browsing, etc. I was playing a game Civ 5 last night and this one graphic comes up every in-game year and I noticed a staticy vertical line, not horizontal like last time, it was in a quick info box for the game, the info box goes away and everything seems fine again. And its only in the box and about an inch long, maybe the color has something to do with it? Either way, I down-clocked to 96hz and the line was not there, so I figured it must be the hz.

Now I'm on 118hz with 452.54Mhz pixel clock down from 459.86mhz pixel clock. That vertical line is not there anymore, so I guess it worked. I could not get the pixel clock any lower without lines all over the screen on 120hz. I have not tried a different cable or a new GPU yet, just wanted to give people my experience. I dont use this monitor for movies so Im not concerned with keeping my hz in check for the pull-down effect.
post #6696 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADEizGOD View Post

I just got my Qnix 2710 screen today..how do I OC it? it doesn't give me an option of over 60Hz.
The original post has instructions and they are repeated throughout the thread.

Here's instructions that I compiled from the thread to help me (assuming you have an Nvidia GPU):

To overclock the Hz, what you are doing is adding a profile to your Nvidia drivers where you can select 96Hz from a dropdown (whereas normally it would not be possible).

Here are step-by-step instructions:

1) Download the Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) and the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, both available from this link:
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

You can save them anywhere, they don't have to be on your C: to run them.

2) Go into the pixel clock patcher folder and run nvlddmkm-patcher.exe. You only need to run the full patcher with 5xx series GPUs or earlier or if you have SLI. If you have a 6-series GPU or later or you're not running SLI you can just run the normal patcher. Then REBOOT.

3) After reboot go into the CRU folder and run CRU.
- In the dropdown at the top make sure the Qnix is selected. Qnix should be the active monitor.
- Highlight the resolution listed under "Detailed resolutions."
- Hit the "Edit" button below the box. This will pop up a new window.
- In the new window hit "Copy." Then hit "OK" to close the window.
- Hit the button "Add" under the "Detailed resolutions" box. This will pop up a new window. Hit "Paste" to populate the screen. Then go down to the area in this screen that says "Refresh rate:" and change it from whatever it is (59.5 or 60.0) to 96. Then hit "OK" to close the window.
- Move the new custom resolution that you created to the top of the list of resolutions under "Detailed resolutions."
- Make sure that "Include extension block" is unchecked.
- Hit OK and CRU will add this new "custom resolution" to your Nvidia drivers.
REBOOT.

4) Once you're rebooted, right click on your desktop (or however you want to do it) to go to NVIDIA Control Panel.
- Go to "Change resolution"
- Under PC you should see Qnix listed as 2560 x 1440 (native). It should be highlighted.
- CRU (despite the name, Custom Resolution Utility) does not add "custom resolutions" to NVIDIA Control Panel. It makes your drivers think that whatever resolutions you created are native.
- There's a dropdown next to the monitor labeled "Refresh rate:" You should be able to select 96Hz from this dropdown now.

I use 96Hz for gaming and keep it at 60Hz the rest of the time.

You can adjust the Hz to whatever you want. I use 96. You can try for 120 but you'll probably need to do some tweaking in CRU. To do those tweaks search the thread for "front porch." Spartan F8 has gone over these tweaks extensively.
Edited by coelacanth - 9/9/13 at 12:54pm
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Intel i7-4770K @ 4.5GHz ASUS Maximus VI Hero Z87 Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming 16GB (2 x 8GB) G.Skill Trident X DDR3-2400 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
750GB Samsung 840EVO 256GB Crucial M4 150GB Velociraptor 1TB Samsung F1 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus DRW-24B1ST Phanteks PH-TC14PE Win 10 64-bit 27" Qnix QX2710 96Hz 
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post #6697 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post

I use 96Hz for gaming and keep it at 60Hz the rest of the time.

Just curious, why do you go back down to 60hz after gaming?
post #6698 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by skilly View Post

Oh oh.. Looks like even with the front porch method my monitor still cant fully handle 120hz.. (didnt test new cable or GPU yet though). Everything has been working flawless for about 5 days that I noticed, GPU intensive games, web browsing, etc. I was playing a game Civ 5 last night and this one graphic comes up every in-game year and I noticed a staticy vertical line, not horizontal like last time, it was in a quick info box for the game, the info box goes away and everything seems fine again. And its only in the box and about an inch long, maybe the color has something to do with it? Either way, I down-clocked to 96hz and the line was not there, so I figured it must be the hz.

Now I'm on 118hz with 452.54Mhz pixel clock down from 459.86mhz pixel clock. That vertical line is not there anymore, so I guess it worked. I could not get the pixel clock any lower without lines all over the screen on 120hz. I have not tried a different cable or a new GPU yet, just wanted to give people my experience. I dont use this monitor for movies so Im not concerned with keeping my hz in check for the pull-down effect.
That is excellent work on keeping the pixel clock down. I'm almost sure that simply changing the DVI port on your GPU (if you have 2 ports and / or 2 GPUs) or swapping out for a different cable would get you those 2 extra Hz, but if you're not concerned about syncing with movies 24FPS, then meh, what's a couple hertz?
post #6699 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by skilly View Post

Just curious, why do you go back down to 60hz after gaming?
I don't think there is any consensus or data on long-term life-span of these monitors. Overclocking the monitor puts extra stain on the chips and other components in the monitor. I'd rather not strain the monitor more than I have to. I also switch to 96Hz for watching some videos too.

Some other posts in this thread have noted that there is a chip on the PCB in the monitor that is rated for 450MHz pixel clock. Even Spartan F8 wasn't able to get his pixel clock below 450MHz at 120Hz. At 96Hz I'm at about 386MHz pixel clock (or something like that), well within the limits of that 450MHz chip, which is why I've only overclocked to 96Hz rather than 120Hz (which I'm pretty sure I could hit).

I'm just using an overabundance of caution, that's all.

Also, I just got a GTX 780 but when I had SLI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes and ran over 60Hz both cards would run at full clocks. At 60Hz one of the cards in SLI would downclock as normal.
Edited by coelacanth - 9/9/13 at 12:23pm
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(20 items)
 
  
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Intel i7-4770K @ 4.5GHz ASUS Maximus VI Hero Z87 Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming 16GB (2 x 8GB) G.Skill Trident X DDR3-2400 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
750GB Samsung 840EVO 256GB Crucial M4 150GB Velociraptor 1TB Samsung F1 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus DRW-24B1ST Phanteks PH-TC14PE Win 10 64-bit 27" Qnix QX2710 96Hz 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Cooler Master QuickFire Ultimate Cooler Master V1000 1000W 80+ Gold Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Logitech G500s 
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My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7-4770K @ 4.5GHz ASUS Maximus VI Hero Z87 Gigabyte GTX 980 Ti G1 Gaming 16GB (2 x 8GB) G.Skill Trident X DDR3-2400 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
750GB Samsung 840EVO 256GB Crucial M4 150GB Velociraptor 1TB Samsung F1 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus DRW-24B1ST Phanteks PH-TC14PE Win 10 64-bit 27" Qnix QX2710 96Hz 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Cooler Master QuickFire Ultimate Cooler Master V1000 1000W 80+ Gold Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Logitech G500s 
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post #6700 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post

I don't think there is any consensus or data on long-term life-span of these monitors. Overclocking the monitor puts extra stain on the chips and other components in the monitor. I'd rather not strain the monitor more than I have to. I also switch to 96Hz for watching some videos too.

Some other posts in this thread have noted that there is a chip on the PCB in the monitor that is rated for 450MHz pixel clock. Even Spartan F8 wasn't able to get his pixel clock below 450MHz at 120Hz. At 96Hz I'm at about 386MHz pixel clock (or something like that), well within the limits of that 450MHz chip, which is why I've only overclocked to 96Hz rather than 120Hz (which I'm pretty sure I could hit).

I'm just using an overabundance of caution, that's all.

Also, I just got a GTX 780 but when I had SLI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes and ran over 60Hz both cards would run at full clocks. At 60Hz one of the cards in SLI would downclock as normal.
Caution is nice, but then again 459MHz is only about 2% higher than 450MHz. Considering that even monitors that don't OC get a few frames extra (60Hz --> 64-67Hz for example), 2% should be nothing to worry about I guess.

Also, caution to users who simply dial in the refresh rate they want to hit without adjusting anything else. You are doing it wrong.
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