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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 691

post #6901 of 25911
Just to add to to the Dream-Seller feedback, I got my matte Qnix from him recently (within a month), and my monitor is perfectly fine.

One dead pixel that I cant even see, even when I'm TRYING to find it. Very minimal BLB. And OCs to 120Hz on stock cable no problem. Shipping only took 4 days from Korea to eastern US.

Recently people seem to have been having problems with his monitors, but overall throughout the course of this thread, hes been regarded as one of the better sellers. And his eBay feedback is outstanding.

I've seen people starting to recommend greensum, but a few hundred pages back people were saying to stay away from him.

I really think it's just luck-of-the draw in terms of panel quality. And whose to say some monitors weren't just damaged in shipping, outside of the seller's control. I'm not sure dream-seller, or anyone else, has any control over what grade of monitors they get. The only differences really should be in terms of seller communication, shipping practices, etc. But that's just my opinion.

That said, go with whoever you feel the most comfortable with thumb.gif, I just wanted to throw in some much needed positive feedback for dream-seller.

Edit: Although, buying through Amazon, or a US-based seller (if in the US) would result in feasible returns/exchanges. That's definitely something to consider, despite the extra cost.
Edited by Zipper Fairy - 9/13/13 at 2:45pm
post #6902 of 25911
I'm going to order one of these next Fri to replace my overlord. Is there a preference in monitor xstar or qnix? I know this has been asked a thousand times, I'm just worried one might have something (or better than) the other. I was gonna ask about sellers too but the comment above confirms its hit or miss.

tapping from the Nexus 4
Edited by sWaY20 - 9/13/13 at 2:44pm
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post #6903 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by sWaY20 View Post

I'm going to order one of these next Fri to replace my overlord. Is there a preference in monitor xstar or qnix? I know this has been asked a thousand times, I'm just worried one might have something (or better than) the other. I was gonna ask about sellers too but the comment above confirms its hit or miss.

tapping from the Nexus 4

As far as we know, they're exactly the same. Qnix seems to be preferred just because the recorded & verified overclocking results are much more plentiful
post #6904 of 25911
Is the stock power brick that comes with the Xstar good enough? Does anyone recommend an aftermarket power brick to power the monitor?

Mine gets fairly hot over the course of the day. I was just curious if there were more durable ones out there that would stay cooler and just be a better option for the monitor in general.
post #6905 of 25911
If you receive a defective panel I suggest you search through my posts and find one of my first posts in this thread. You may find it saving you 50+ dollars on helping you solve your problems. So many people have knocked me for that but if it was you in that position you would be thanking me.

Wow you guys are so new when it comes to computers. Really, Seems like most of you only know about how to play the games and look at your monitor and USE an OS. Pretty Sad. No, you should never use alcohol(usually contains water which takes longer to dry) on your PC....... ever. You can use some acetone to clean the top of the CPU(should dry quickly keep it away from plastic ink on mobo and capacitors and away from the cpu socket but it should dry fast anyway just not super fast blast it with a hair dryer for a minute) but if the thermal paste didnt already pull the text off the cpu the acetone surely will. Never put alcohol on any plastic surface. With plastic you have to be very careful. Even if the screen is glass I still wouldn't use alcohol. You want to use only WATER WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP thats it then maybe a damp rag after its clean with glass cleaner to wipe away streaks if it is made of glass. ANYTHING PLASTIC INCLUDING THE KEYBOARD SHOULD BE WATER, NOT TOO HOT, WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP. Then dry it off(no spray bottle no excess damp squeezed rag these bezels are not like CRTs that can block some excess). Alcohol and other cleaners are too harsh and will eat the plastic making it smooth and removing the text from your keyboard keys or possibly texture from a plastic monitor screen. If you have a motherboard full of tobacco from smoking and fans collecting the sticky in there you can wash it in the sink or the dishwasher(at varying levels of risk use your head the least invasive fix is always the right one but any sticky left will attract more dust so you have to get the job done) and get it almost new(allow a couple days to dry to be anal or try to accelerate it with a carpet drying squirrel cage shop fan or some kind of hot air device that is not so hot it will desolder the components); you can also do this with keyboard internals(but keyboards never seem to go back together right and its a pain sometimes to get all the keys to work at the same time). Computers are delicate they are not like old CRT glass tube monitors(which at the end had plastic film anti glare coatings anyway that you wouldn't want to use chemicals on). Water one drop of soap to clean and if you need to do some plastic repair or scratch remover look to car plastic products like Mother's plastic polish or plastic headlight scratch repair something along those lines expensive detailing/repair products(this stuff is all different has specific applications do your research). Water is not the enemy water is your friend what is your enemy is water plus electricity(one pop and its all over you have to buy a new component dont try to fix it it often results in a pop in a chip you cant replace somewher else on the board you didnt expect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEx8ms_nrCQ). Anytime your mixing water and computer components it better not be attached to any kind of power supply(you can get away with wiping the top of the keyboard usually(not sure about chiclet keys(this is the style of keyboard I'm moving to next(lowest keypress depth =s faster gaming)))).

So now onto some new information. I've been researching electronic components and trying to get a handle on the LED global market landscape and of course I learned a few things about the monitor tho not as specific as I'd like. We have all been bothered by the warm color of the monitor at least at first or compared to other monitors. I tried everyones ICC profiles and the ones from ASUS and other monitors with the same Samsung LTM270DL02(these is also a LTM270HL02(smaller 1080p version) that I'm sure allot of you have run across on tftcentral http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/search.php?query=LTM270&select=panel) panel and all the "custom" ones from this thread came out looking blue and green way off base and the ones from ASUS and Samsung with this same panel came off looking essentially the same but with a slight haze to it and looking slightly brighter but ultimately less clear. I'm not sure if ICC profiles are the fix we are looking for but ultimately it is something we should all learn anyway to tweak the monitors to the full potential. The problem I have is our samsung panels to me look the same as the ones at walmart(in color and overall characteristics). Yes ours have a much denser resolution but the color(purplish blues, darker reds overall darker more "cinematic" quality to the picture much like the difference between Canon and Nikon where Samsung PLS would be Nikon and LG IPS would be Canon) and the way the screen draws animation(far more accurately with less blurring) are superior, but even at walmart all the Samsung TVs have that same slightly yellow warmth and darker overall colors. Researching LEDS I have been trying to start at the top in order to find the best quality(not just LCD leds but all leds) and I have come across several lists like this one http://electroiq.com/blog/articles/2012/02/top-10-led-manufacturers-in-2011/. So, of course its "likely" that Samsung is using Samsung LEDs to back-light their own displays. I also ran across this little tidbit:

LED back-lighting in color screens comes in two flavors: white LED back-lights and RGB LED back-lights.[3] White LEDs are used most often in notebooks and desktop screens, and in virtually all mobile LCD screens. A white LED is typically a blue LED with broad spectrum yellow phosphor to give the impression of white light.

From here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight

Which explains our yellow warmth I also found on Samsungs Display Edge LED page an interesting video at the bottom http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/it-c/display-led/edge-led. Which states they have a new LED the "7030" and lists a 27" WCG"Wide Color Gamut" which these displays can cost thousand of dollars 2000+ here in the states and that it contains red and green phosphors(shows the wafer transferring robotic arms cool almost looks like intel) which are able to achieve 95% plus of the NTSC and Adobe color gamuts so they claim... I am wondering one of the first things I worried about to have to replace about these monitors would be the backlight or as a possible upgrade?........ Is this the LED we could be looking for? I wonder what all would be involved to match one or another to this monitor and PWM dimming would probably require us to identify the current LEDs and their specifications and try to match that as closely as possible and install the new ones in the same orientation. There are many other manufacturers as well. Nichia, LG, Phillips Lumiled, Cree etc etc. Still I have yet to find anything definitive on quality and a majority of these are OEM business type leds(harder to order by joe blow consumer because they require huge orders of 100s of thousands or millions of leds to make it cost effective) and not the other kinds of leds I'm looking for like bicolor/ornamental LEDs. Maybe an RGB(adjustable white color temperature within what bounds I'm not sure yet) led would be better but more than likely this would require extra circuitry we don't have.

I've also been catching up on the easily researchable part of LCD evolution(the part people can understand the back-light). And if i hadn't been on CRT for so long I would already know this but it shouldn't have been necessary to open up the panel to figure out this is an edge lit LCD(the reason for LCD Edge lighting is to make the panel overall more slim). As we all know commercial production LCDs started out with CFL backlights and then to LED backlights which first came in the form of an array often taking the same panel thickness that the CCFLs they replaced did. Which leads to these 2 articles which should sum up most of this for you plus one has an expanded(exploded?) Samsung TV showing you all the Layers of a Samsung panel separated on glass displays across an entire showroom.

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57572740-221/led-lcd-backlights-explained/
^Has Exploded Diffuser Sheer Layer "Light Guides"(the pock marks make up the array in the light guide on an edge lit from dascth video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZKjs51k2GY&list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE&index=17) or something I read they are called
http://reviews.cnet.com/2795-6482_7-399.html This page states that Samsung was the progenitor of Edge Lit LCDs.
http://reviews.cnet.com/led-tvs-review-10-things-you-need-to-know Center picture gallery has the all the "Exploded" layers of a Samsung Edge-Lit Flat panel.

So the reason we have such poor black level is the Edge Lit LCD without local dimming. To me Edge Lit local dimming is not at all desirable because it introduces what looked like picture banding on CRT and I remember reading about these reviews on Amazon from Slickdeals' posts about certain LCD TVs a few years ago and people were complaining about what they thought was a defect when infact it was completely intended to try to increase black-level on a thin panel to satisfy the consumer(I would rather have a higher performance screen than a thin screen I'm not going to spend years looking at the back or side of a monitor......) only to introduce banding effects in certain situations causing people to avoid the panels because of the viral effect of internet reviews that manufacturers have still not fully adjusted to. Making a dimming mod would be extremely difficult(at least at first glance) and would probably not be desirable anyway so a blacklevel fix other than fixing the bleed is not possible without switching to full array backlighting which would require allot of money and a completely new internal panel frame and internal light reflector with perfectly spaced holes more work than anyone would want to attempt only to have a questionable result. Not to say that switching the backlight at all would have a positive result because most likely the WCG"Wide Color Gamut" 7030 LEDS may have a different color tuned Wide Gamut LCD panel layer to go along with it with different colors that work differently with the other LEDS(kind of doubt this tho).

Still we need to indentify the Samsung LEDs used to edge light our models. Dascth's video is very poor for this I think they are only half exposed on his. Honestly I don't want to open up my panel that much cause you will get dust inbetween those light diffuser sheets(the LEDs I think from his video are along the bottom of the internal LCD panel I'm pretty sure they look like these http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/it-c/display-led/edge-led tho you can only see the top edge of the yellow and unless they have markings along the top(doesn't look like they do) it may be impossible to identify these by lookiing at them because they all look so similar so this may require an email). I'll get right on this(sorry thinking as I go a little can't think of everything which takes time and we are all limited on time).
LTM270DL02_Datasheet.pdf 1246k .pdf file
No mention of LEDS used.
Edited by ColdFlo - 9/14/13 at 3:13am
post #6906 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdFlo View Post

No, you should never use alcohol(usually contains water which takes longer to dry) on your PC....... ever. You can use some acetone to clean the top of the CPU(should dry quickly keep it away from plastic ink on mobo and capactors and away from the cpu socket but it should dry fast anyway just not super fast blast it with a hair dryer for a minute) but if the thermal paste didnt already pull the text off the cpu the acetone surely will. Never put alcohol on any plastic surface. With plastic you have to be very careful. Even if the screen is glass I still wouldn't use alcohol. You want to use only WATER WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP thats it then maybe a damp rag after its clean with glass cleaner to wipe away streaks if it is made of glass. ANYTHING PLASTIC INCLUDING THE KEYBOARD SHOULD BE WATER, NOT TOO HOT, WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP. Then dry it off. Alcohol and other cleaners are too harsh and will eat the plastic making it smooth and removing the text from your keyboard keys or possibly texture from a plastic monitor screen.

I use alcohol on my CPU, acetone sounds like a bad idea, especially if you're saying it will rub the lettering off the CPU (which alcohol does not do). I use diluted alcohol on my keyboard and mouse-pad sometimes and haven't noticed any ill-effects either.

As far as cleaning the Qnix, I use a microfiber cloth, and sometimes just a tiny bit of water.
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post #6907 of 25911
Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post

I use alcohol on my CPU, acetone sounds like a bad idea, especially if you're saying it will rub the lettering off the CPU (which alcohol does not do). I use diluted alcohol on my keyboard and mouse-pad sometimes and haven't noticed any ill-effects either.

As far as cleaning the Qnix, I use a microfiber cloth, and sometimes just a tiny bit of water.
What's worse is he's saying not to put alcohol on a plastic surface, but recommending acetone for cleaning CPUs. Never use acetone near anything plastic related (something near that CPU is definatly made of plastic) because it dissolves certain "plastics." If you want to clean your monitor use specifically made monitor cleaners or distilled water.
post #6908 of 25911
Hi all,

Would like to know if any of you have this symptom like playing online videos (Youtube, etc..) in Google Chrome where it would suddenly hang and lock, needed to reset the PC? I have this symptoms and it seems that I cannot play any online videos with Google Chrome now. But I could use Windows IE 10. My OS is Win 7 Ultimate.

I have been using NVC customs resolution of 110hz with all OPs for patch and CRU added.

Would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.
post #6909 of 25911
Hey guys, I keep asking this question and no one has answered yet, but:


EDID color temperature settings, or Catalyst default temperature settings?

Can't decide entirely which gives the better picture and wondering what everyone else has as their setting.
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post #6910 of 25911
Rule of thumb is to disable all GPU driver post-processing and calibrate with ICC + video LUTs to maximize accuracy. 3DLUTs for applications which support it.
Edited by paulkon - 9/13/13 at 8:10pm
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