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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 692

post #6911 of 25893
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor/330932578190?customid=wyVckBznEeOciUZqSFMiPQ0_Kb7i3_0_0_0&pub=5574652453&afepn=5337259887&campid=5337259887&pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e&afepn=5337259887

bout to pull the trigger on this for $270.

Can somebody quickly clarify one thing for me:
I have a 1440p monitor, I want a 1440p monitor that can do 120 hz.. that's all I'm interested in. What are the chances of this doing 120hz or close to it. And if not, can I return it?

thxxx
post #6912 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stylook View Post

Hi all,

Would like to know if any of you have this symptom like playing online videos (Youtube, etc..) in Google Chrome where it would suddenly hang and lock, needed to reset the PC? I have this symptoms and it seems that I cannot play any online videos with Google Chrome now. But I could use Windows IE 10. My OS is Win 7 Ultimate.

I have been using NVC customs resolution of 110hz with all OPs for patch and CRU added.

Would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.

Hi all,

It's ok, I found out nothing to do with CRU or patch etc. It's the notorious Realtek HD audio driver matter.

Cheers
post #6913 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertdt View Post

Hey guys, I keep asking this question and no one has answered yet, but:


EDID color temperature settings, or Catalyst default temperature settings?

Can't decide entirely which gives the better picture and wondering what everyone else has as their setting.

Start by reading "Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them" in the first post of this thread. The main point is you need to use an ICC profile activated within the Color Management control panel in Windows.
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post #6914 of 25893
Ok after a bunch of testing - these are my best possible timings with my Radeon 7970, ending up with a pixel clock of 459.86MHz - LCD Reduced is 469.20Mhz

Hopefully this helps people struggling to get a clean 120hz refresh.

post #6915 of 25893
I would rather not have to worry about iso alcohol under my CPU socket(not drying for hours or longer); with acetone there is no worry. Just a damp paper towel ontop of the CPU. I used alcohol at first but one time I got to wiping a little too much and worried about runoff/excess(I've cleaned allot of CPUs in last 15 years which I'm sure allot of us have). Acetone dries really fast. It doesn't really hurt the PCB and it would have to have prolonged contact to hurt any plastic components. I think shorting under the socket is a much bigger worry(walmart 91% iso is 9% water) than eating through plastic(which would need a significant amount of acetone and time(comparative to what you can get off a damp rag doesn't need to be seriously damp to clean thermal paste with acetone(I don't know of another widespread cheap solvent that dries so fast or is as powerful) eliminates having to bust out hairdryer(if you did hit it with hairdryer even some under the socket would evaporate completely) or waiting just overall better practice) excess/runoff will dry fast). I cleaned my first Logitech keyboard with alcohol then I got my first Razer keyboard and looked up how to really do it then I realized what the alcohol had done to the Logitech. It had smoothed the texture off the keys and some of the key text. Any kind of cleaner is too harsh for number of times you will have to clean something like a keyboard or monitor(unless it is glass(I still don't know what this screen is made of to be honest I still have the protective packing plastic still on it. smile.gif The matte coating is a plastic film that you can see removed on callsignvegas thread)).

Just had one of those belated tweaking moments(well I've only had the monitor for a month now).

In the Nvidia drivers go to Video > Adjust Video Color Settings > Advanced and set it to Full 0-255(did a search can't remember if someone mentioned this or not thread is too long and its been a month since I read it have a slight inkling(maybe a little more) this has already been discussed). In the past it always did this by default but I just checked it(maybe since first time I got this monitor and I switched it to Full and of course the Black Level and picture are much clearer now. I have allot of experience playing with these settings as MPC progressed on the CRT but since it always defaulted the correct setting with the CRT I assumed it was doing it with this monitor too. I thought it was just LCD limitation. Well at least I caught it somewhat early. Now I feel like watching some film tonight.
Edited by ColdFlo - 9/13/13 at 10:46pm
post #6916 of 25893
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mackereland View Post

has anyone bought QNIX from overclockmonitor.com? Haven't seen it before.
Should I be the first one who buys it and leave a comment here? Please share your experience if you have any.

Sketchy with a capitol S
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post #6917 of 25893
Got my X-STAR DP2710 Matte on the Sept 10th, after reading this forum obsessively for over a week, watching every disassembly video and review I could find.

There is so much information here, thanks to everyone who's taken the time to post.

I got mine for 269 USD from dream-seller on ebay. It arrived two days earlier than expected via Fedex (4 days total from ebay order to my doorstep).

It is perfect, flawless!, not one single dead pixel, no fuzziness, banding or discoloration, minimal BLB, no electrical buzzing.
Nothing broken, nothing missing.

The one caveat is that it came with a Korean plug, but I had read about that in this forum and was ready with a quality, standard US three prong cable to replace it.

The monitor worked right on the first try and the colors were so beautiful!, best monitor I have ever owned. Applied the sRGB profiles posted on the front page and tested it at 60, 96 and then 120 hz. It worked on each mode perfectly. I tried bluray playback at NTSC and 24 frame rates and gaming with Borderlands 2. No tearing, no ghosting.

I am running it landscape in dual config with my old trusty S-Panel Samsung 226BW 22inch panel in portrait mode, driven by my aging superclocked EVGA GTX 460 1GB.

I apologize for the crappy iPhone pictures, it is late around here and my desk is jet black.

IMG_0816.JPG 425k .JPG file
post #6918 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdFlo View Post

I would rather not have to worry about iso alcohol under my CPU socket(not drying for hours or longer); with acetone there is no worry. Just a damp paper towel ontop of the CPU. I used alcohol at first but one time I got to wiping a little too much and worried about runoff/excess(I've cleaned allot of CPUs in last 15 years which I'm sure allot of us have). Acetone dries really fast. It doesn't really hurt the PCB and it would have to have prolonged contact to hurt any plastic components. I think shorting under the socket is a much bigger worry(walmart 91% iso is 9% water) than eating through plastic(which would need a significant amount of acetone and time(comparative to what you can get off a damp rag doesn't need to be seriously damp to clean thermal paste with acetone(I don't know of another widespread cheap solvent that dries so fast or is as powerful) eliminates having to bust out hairdryer(if you did hit it with hairdryer even some under the socket would evaporate completely) or waiting just overall better practice) excess/runoff will dry fast). I cleaned my first Logitech keyboard with alcohol then I got my first Razer keyboard and looked up how to really do it then I realized what the alcohol had done to the Logitech. It had smoothed the texture off the keys and some of the key text. Any kind of cleaner is too harsh for number of times you will have to clean something like a keyboard or monitor(unless it is glass(I still don't know what this screen is made of to be honest I still have the protective packing plastic still on it smile.gif )).

Just had one of those belated tweaking moments(well I've only had the monitor for a month now).

In the Nvidia drivers go to Video > Adjust Video Color Settings > Advanced and set it to Full 0-255(did a search can't remember if someone mentioned this or not thread is too long and its been a month since I read it have a slight inkling(maybe a little more) this has already been discussed). In the past it always did this by default but I just checked it(maybe since first time I got this monitor and I switched it to Full and of course the Black Level and picture are much clearer now. I have allot of experience playing with these settings as MPC progressed on the CRT but since it always defaulted the correct setting with the CRT I assumed it was doing it with this monitor too. I thought it was just LCD limitation. Well at least I caught it somewhat early. Now I feel like watching some film tonight.

What? Iso alcohol does not takes hours to try. It takes mere seconds. I let mine evaporate, usually about 10 seconds and fan some air at it with my hand and its good to go.

EDIT: Wait now I am more confused. Why would you get iso alcohol UNDER the socket? Are you referring to the pin side?
post #6919 of 25893
I think we can drop the CPU alcohol cleaning chat in the Monitor and displays section Qnix thread. There are plenty of CPU cleaning swipes that can be purchased for next to free on the internet but that really has nothing to do with the monitor. There is a TON of good info regarding this in the CPU section of the forum. I think it would be neat to know what LEDs are in our panel and might take a look myself in the next few days(given i get time).

I did see a comment a few pages back regarding my timings and blanking. The truth is i keep my back porch with a slightly offset blanking set and it causes my black frame insertion to be an extremely small time variance from the rest of the pixel clock. Ideally these would be mathematically sound however the chances i would ever see an effect from it is less than my chances of winning the lottery by buying one ticket and the decrease of pixel clock is worth it to me to include a margin for error. I would not however recommend anyone else do this for obvious reasons. The lowest exact pixel clock i have ever gotten @120hz was 455mhz not too far off from what the rest of you have achieved.

I did also see someone ask again what the difference between the Xstar and Qnix panels(Number 30 thumb.gif ). I am a bit disappointed that he got a serious answer(even though that might be a bit mean). I have also noticed our recommendation for people to search "front porch" for timings information might be getting a bit diluted since when you search it you mostly find posts where we are again advising people to search. It may be better to search front porch but definitely use oldest to newest.

Also ColdFlo you are exactly right. Setting the driver to allow 0-255 color definitely helps video playback as long as the video player renderer is set to match it or in "untouched mode". There is also a mountain of other settings involved with video decoding and rendering that can make the Qnix destroy most other displays in playback(honestly the theater looks likes crap now unless you just want BIG). For anyone interested in this i recommend checking the Madvr forum, LAV forum, and any in depth MPC forum(avoid any that keep going on about UI stuff they are just about useless). I primarily recommend taking a look at frame duplication for cinema video and frame interpolation for animation video(due to the lack of soap opera effect) to take advantage of the extra refresh rate in video playback. One of the most amazing things you can do with this panel is optimize video playback/rendering and then watch timescapes on it in 1440p native drool.gif
post #6920 of 25893
Look Acetone is better keep crying. So you all watched a youtube video about how to clean your processor and stayed there for 10 years(LOL) good for you. You guys are making a big deal about nothing, reposting huge quotes wasting the threads time. Move on. You definitely don't want to use alcohol on a matte plastic screen or your keyboard. (how did I know that applied to some of you O> ?)

Here is some new information people might actually care about. The Samsung monitors and ASUS monitors that use these same panels have these exact same defects probably on all of them. http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=13&model=PB278Q&id=20120921015917269&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

This one says he got his direct from Samsung
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=13&model=PB278Q&id=20120921015917269&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

LOL ASUS' policy is more than 6 dead pixels before replacement. http://www.service.asus.com/#!zbd/cjej http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20130124182950069&board_id=13&model=PB278Q&page=1&SLanguage=en-us LOLOLOL and Slickdealers were questioning these "cheapo" "korean(most of these monitors are Korean; LG is Korean too)" sellers and companies............

These are not A- or B panels thats just how these panels are and the amount of dead pixels we have been seeing is not that out of bounds compared with the major brands either. We are just overly picky bourgeois middle class snob people who don't have clue about the industry or what we are talking about....... LCD monitors I keep reading have extremely high QC rejection rates I guess they just miss some. Those BLB pics you guys are exaggerating it by turning the brightness all the way up on a black image.
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