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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 694

post #6931 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrolds View Post

Ok after a bunch of testing - these are my best possible timings with my Radeon 7970, ending up with a pixel clock of 459.86MHz - LCD Reduced is 469.20Mhz

Hopefully this helps people struggling to get a clean 120hz refresh.


I have 7970
This is the first oc setting I did and It worked ,now I am running @120hz with no issue.Thanks
post #6932 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Massive17 View Post

Hey I'm thinking about debezelling mine. I know there's a guide in the front of this thread. Do you have any pictures or tips on how to go about it and was it pretty hard thing to do ?

I just debezeled mine and it one and a half days. Mostly for the plastidip to dry.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710/150#post_20802158

There's my post from the other thread that goes over in detail what I did.

Was it difficult? Not entirely. On a scale of 1-10 I'd say it was probably a 6 or 7.

Get a guitar pick though. It was the tool of choice for me to pry open bezels/brackets. I can't imagine using anything else without damaging it.

I almost had a panic attack when I epoxy'd the pcb on the back of the monitor. The backlight cable is the exact length it needs to be with little to no slack. I routed it through the bottom and the cord was too short, I had to splice it and extend the wire, but it ended up working out for me.
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Bladestorm Z
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post #6933 of 25893
Looks like mine isn't a great overclocker. I tried the 120hz method above and even tried 96hz reduced and still no luck.

Its always the same row of pixels, just one that cant handle it. Gonna look through this to try and find some settings to try. Would like to alteast find something stable at 96hz.
Edited by timaishu - 9/14/13 at 4:24pm
post #6934 of 25893
I managed to bend the aluminum brackets, one perfectly and the other still had a bit of distortion. I used electrical tape on the inside and my BLB is about as minimal as possible.

Here are some before and after shots. The photos aren't entirely accurate because time of day and settings on the camera aren't the exact same.

Before:
Monitor 1
Monitor 2


After:
Monitor 1
Monitor 2

The result of bracket pressure are those yellow/golden like Backlight bleeds. That's basically the pressure of a bent bracket directly on the panel. You can test how much BLB your panel has by taking the bracket off and just holding the panel in place. There's no pressure from the bracket at that point and you can easily verify what the lowest amount of BLB you can achieve is.
Edited by gl0ry - 9/14/13 at 4:19pm
Bladestorm Z
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Bladestorm Z
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Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
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post #6935 of 25893
From what I have noticed, the way the panel sits inside it's original casing, you're going to get back light bleeding no matter what. The fact that some others have reported little to no BLB is beyond me, but it appears that all of these Qnix monitors show BLB in the exact same spots, which means there is a defect with the casing. Either that, or there is a defect with the panel. The fact that most of my BLB disappeared when I started messing with the panel would indicate there is, in fact, a defect with the panel. Or rather, a defect with the metal casing that holds the panel.
post #6936 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semus View Post

From what I have noticed, the way the panel sits inside it's original casing, you're going to get back light bleeding no matter what. The fact that some others have reported little to no BLB is beyond me, but it appears that all of these Qnix monitors show BLB in the exact same spots, which means there is a defect with the casing. Either that, or there is a defect with the panel. The fact that most of my BLB disappeared when I started messing with the panel would indicate there is, in fact, a defect with the panel. Or rather, a defect with the metal casing that holds the panel.

It's a bit of both. The large yellowish/golden BLB is usually due to the casing. The lighter white BLB is just a defect in the panel. Gotta remember these are B grade panels for a reason.

The BLB is not even noticeable on anything other than a pure black screen anyways, and even then it can be difficult to notice depending on what angle you're at.
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post #6937 of 25893
My backlight bleed was BAD, i had to bend the frame by hand a few times (taking out the metal frame each time), and folded about 4 - 5 pieces of paper to put pressure against the bottom of the frame, as if i was pinching it from the outside.

Before:


Paper insert things...


After:


Top part still has BLB - only way to fix that is to bend the metal frame ..which i dont really wanna do again frown.gif
post #6938 of 25893
good,Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.thank you 6.gif
post #6939 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by gl0ry View Post

It's a bit of both. The large yellowish/golden BLB is usually due to the casing. The lighter white BLB is just a defect in the panel. Gotta remember these are B grade panels for a reason.

The BLB is not even noticeable on anything other than a pure black screen anyways, and even then it can be difficult to notice depending on what angle you're at.

Yes, I agree.

I wanted to post some results of overclocking to 96HZ. It appears that I start to get some image retention at around an hour of use. The very odd thing is that the image retention only happens in the top right corner of the monitor. Very odd. So, if I do OC to 96HZ I have to be very careful about the amount of time I do it. I have come to the conclusion that it really just isn't worth doing if I'm going to get this image retention. It does eventually clear itself after setting the monitor back to 60HZ, but what would happen if you left the monitor like that for 24 hours? Or perhaps even longer? Would there be permanent damage? I have actually gone up to 120HZ, but the colors were really dark and washed out. I know there are ICC profiles that can alleviate some of the color problems, but if the image retention is so bad, is it worth it?

Another thing I have noticed is that with some games 1080P works just fine. I realize that the video card is doing the scaling, but it seems to work fine with most games I've played. The image isn't as sharp as 1440, but with some games it's hardly noticeable, especially from a certain distance away. The further the better. For example, Simcity 5 is a game I play quite often and it look great at 1080P. The reason i play it at 1080P is because my FPS is through the roof. If I switch to 1440 I get FPS in the 50's and 60's depending on what I'm looking at at the time. It's not a game breaker, but when you have FPS well over 100 at 1080P with minimal IQ loss, I don't mind the IQ loss.

The video card I currently own is a GTX 760 4GB and it's OC'ed. I haven't pushed the OC yet, but it's still rather new and I don't want to kill it just yet. My processor is rather old (2600K), but it's still running at 4.3 GHZ. I'm not sure how much better the performance would be with a newer processor at the same exact speed (perhaps it has something to do with the architecture).

Anyhow, I'm getting off track here...

All in all I am in love with this QX2710. So much so that I purchased an X-Star DP2710 that should be here Monday. If this one works out I might just spring for a third and call it a day. However, I'd have to get another video card... decisions, decisions...
post #6940 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semus View Post

Yes, I agree.

I wanted to post some results of overclocking to 96HZ. It appears that I start to get some image retention at around an hour of use. The very odd thing is that the image retention only happens in the top right corner of the monitor. Very odd. So, if I do OC to 96HZ I have to be very careful about the amount of time I do it. I have come to the conclusion that it really just isn't worth doing if I'm going to get this image retention. It does eventually clear itself after setting the monitor back to 60HZ, but what would happen if you left the monitor like that for 24 hours? Or perhaps even longer? Would there be permanent damage? I have actually gone up to 120HZ, but the colors were really dark and washed out. I know there are ICC profiles that can alleviate some of the color problems, but if the image retention is so bad, is it worth it?

Another thing I have noticed is that with some games 1080P works just fine. I realize that the video card is doing the scaling, but it seems to work fine with most games I've played. The image isn't as sharp as 1440, but with some games it's hardly noticeable, especially from a certain distance away. The further the better. For example, Simcity 5 is a game I play quite often and it look great at 1080P. The reason i play it at 1080P is because my FPS is through the roof. If I switch to 1440 I get FPS in the 50's and 60's depending on what I'm looking at at the time. It's not a game breaker, but when you have FPS well over 100 at 1080P with minimal IQ loss, I don't mind the IQ loss.

The video card I currently own is a GTX 760 4GB and it's OC'ed. I haven't pushed the OC yet, but it's still rather new and I don't want to kill it just yet. My processor is rather old (2600K), but it's still running at 4.3 GHZ. I'm not sure how much better the performance would be with a newer processor at the same exact speed (perhaps it has something to do with the architecture).

Anyhow, I'm getting off track here...

All in all I am in love with this QX2710. So much so that I purchased an X-Star DP2710 that should be here Monday. If this one works out I might just spring for a third and call it a day. However, I'd have to get another video card... decisions, decisions...

The color retention of this monitor has been very thoroughly discussed. It is in no way permanent and your 24 hours comment is mute as computers have had screen savers forever. Also you will not have color retention as much or at all if you optimize your monitor timings. I will personally say 120hz is worth it IF you use color correction and if you optimize each variable in the overclock(cable, Gfx port, timings, driver setup). Also i and others have found graphics card overclocking and monitor overclocking at the same time is most often a no no and can have adverse effects. If you are going to triple these and game you are going to need serious graphics power to maintain even 60fps. SLI GTX760s may not be up to the task for many games. The memory is big enough you should not have any issues rendering older games even at 96 or 120hz. Newer games are generally going to be a different story.
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