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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 719

post #7181 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookybiscuit View Post

Are cables of the same brand going to be different in overclocking potential or can you just buy a good one and be done?

Brand has really nothing to do with it. Most of these all comes from the same place and get a badge smacked onto them. Like i said ALL cables are different and you can't just buy a cool gold fat looking cable and expect it to run the best. I had tried around 50 different cables at my office just to try. I also bought some thick gold platted cables from monoprice. In the end i found an old 28AWG cable in a box that ran the best(by like 4-8hz). This cable has no "gold", it is not 24AWG and it doesn't appear to have any cool names(monster, Nike, Porsche) on it. ALL cables are mass produced and all cables are subject to binning by performance. When mass production and binning takes place they will all be rated to run the standard data rate but any access capabilities are going to be varied. With this being said i would try multiple cables from ANY source you can either buy cheaply(monoprice) or try for free(Try friends cables).

EDIT: Just make sure they are DVI-D dual link thumb.gif
post #7182 of 25888
Ive tried 5-6 cables, from 24AWG cables from monoprice/overlord to included cables with my 120hz lightboost BenQ. The included 28AWG cable from the 60hz CrossOver was the best performing one. And they all displayed picture at the same hz, but the one im using now has the last artifacts.

Imo cables generally wont net you higher overclocks, if your monitor cant do 120hz (black/blinking screen) then no cable in the world will help you - but if at 120hz you get green scan lines - lowering pixel clock and getting a better quality cable will help.
post #7183 of 25888
Thanks guys. As to perfect pixel, I know its generally regarded as a cash grab with no real benefits over the non perfect pixel one in terms of dead pixels, but anyone know if they are a higher grade panel or are picked out for less BLB or something?
post #7184 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrolds View Post

Imo cables generally wont net you higher overclocks, if your monitor cant do 120hz (black/blinking screen) then no cable in the world will help you - but if at 120hz you get green scan lines - lowering pixel clock and getting a better quality cable will help.

Out of the cables i tried there were several that would allow me to go as high as 150hz but then there was also some that crapped out even before 120hz(black/blinking). I am not sure how much data you were able to get only trying 5-6 cables but my findings point quite the other direction. Timings were a big part of the equation as certain cables would work with certain timings however the cable definitely affected the resulting refresh possibilities. Green scan lines are instability, a certain level of instability will render you a blank screen as the refresh cannot even be established. If a certain cable can grant you more stability than another than it is a bit misleading to say it wont at least potentially allow for a higher overclock.

Sorry to put you down man but these factors do build on each other
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookybiscuit View Post

Thanks guys. As to perfect pixel, I know its generally regarded as a cash grab with no real benefits over the non perfect pixel one in terms of dead pixels, but anyone know if they are a higher grade panel or are picked out for less BLB or something?

BLB is not a warrantable issue for any seller. The perfect pixel is a scam however if your are able to confirm the specifications or guarantee behind the perfect pixel claim with the seller and then buy a square trade warranty with it the square trade warranty will be based and accountable for the level of quality claimed by the PP claim.

Bottom line PP = scam BUT can be useful if bought with a square trade warranty.
Edited by Spartan F8 - 9/21/13 at 9:42am
post #7185 of 25888
post #7186 of 25888

Firstly this question would be better placed in the crossover forums. Secondly AH-IPS is going to have better picture quality than S-IPS. The reaction time could be slightly better with the AH-IPS as it is the newest tech but other than the IPS type the monitors are identical so there should not be a visible difference between the two. Since they are the same price i personally would defintely go for the AH-IPS as it is the only panel type that may have a slightly better picture than a PLS panel. Honestly if you are set on a crossover rather than the Qnix(100 bucks less) i would get the best tech possible. Also you could always grab a overlord PCB and overclock. An AH-IPS panel overclocked to 120hz would be at the top of the current monitor food chain.
post #7187 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

Out of the cables i tried there were several that would allow me to go as high as 150hz but then there was also some that crapped out even before 120hz(black/blinking). I am not sure how much data you were able to get only trying 5-6 cables but my findings point quite the other direction. Timings were a big part of the equation as certain cables would work with certain timings however the cable definitely affected the resulting refresh possibilities. Green scan lines are instability, a certain level of instability will render you a blank screen as the refresh cannot even be established. If a certain cable can grant you more stability than another than it is a bit misleading to say it wont at least potentially allow for a higher overclock.

Sorry to put you down man but these factors do build on each other


Thanks, no worries - more info is always good. But i think my point was - unless you have 50 cables lying around, dropping $10-$15 per DLDVI cable in the hopes that getting out of a blink/black screen at higher overclocks (without tweaking timings) is a costly endeavor .

Right now this QNIX is at 119hz (120hz has slight scan lines, and 135hz+ has more corruption, but i got picture which was surprising) - and i used the same cable with my Tempest OC - that i could not get past 117hz (118hz and it was blinking). So the cable has more wiggle room, but the panel did not - at that point i dont think there was nothing i could do to get the Tempest to hit 118hz by simply swapping cables. Before the QNIX i didnt even think the cable this cable could go above 120hz.

You had a panel where 1 particular cable could not hit 120hz? Then swapping out the cable got you 150hz? Or did most of the cables hover around 120hz, until you found one that would do 150hz? Or did most of the cables to 140hz+?
post #7188 of 25888
Woke my computer from sleep this morning, turned on my monitor and saw brief flashes of red and green. Is there anything I should be concerned about? Repeated it a couple of times and didn't notice anything. Could my graphics card be dying?
post #7189 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

Firstly this question would be better placed in the crossover forums. Secondly AH-IPS is going to have better picture quality than S-IPS. The reaction time could be slightly better with the AH-IPS as it is the newest tech but other than the IPS type the monitors are identical so there should not be a visible difference between the two. Since they are the same price i personally would defintely go for the AH-IPS as it is the only panel type that may have a slightly better picture than a PLS panel. Honestly if you are set on a crossover rather than the Qnix(100 bucks less) i would get the best tech possible. Also you could always grab a overlord PCB and overclock. An AH-IPS panel overclocked to 120hz would be at the top of the current monitor food chain.

I know the OC PCBs needed some not so easy modifications to work with the CrossOver LED-Ps, they werent simply drop ins like Catleaps and Shimians (more or less). Getting an OC PCB to work on these proprietary Crossover desings might take a bit of work, assuming the actual component interfaces are the same. Might want to get some pics of the insides of the new Crossovers to Scribby so he can guesstimate compatibility. It would be cool though.
post #7190 of 25888
Can I just use any random PSU 'kettle plug' I have? Monitor spec says it only pulls 50w so I'm guessing it should be fine.
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