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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 723

post #7221 of 25893
How does Green-sum handle DOA cases and does (s)he cover the shipping back? Also I couldn't find "worldwider adapter included" in the description so will I get everything I need for it to work?
I live in Finland
post #7222 of 25893
Thanks for answering about the bleeding. im worried about it because i fly FSX at nighttimes and would like to have a dark and clean pic, 2-3 bad pixels is nothing compared to BAD bleeding.. So are my chances better if i choose like shimian or crossover? ive read these threads over and over but cant really decide, maby i should buy all of em and see lol..
post #7223 of 25893
If I can't get to 120Hz is it more likely the cable or the monitor?
post #7224 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by kroken View Post

Thanks for answering about the bleeding. im worried about it because i fly FSX at nighttimes and would like to have a dark and clean pic, 2-3 bad pixels is nothing compared to BAD bleeding.. So are my chances better if i choose like shimian or crossover? ive read these threads over and over but cant really decide, maby i should buy all of em and see lol..

I am not sure you have understood. There is a pressure bleed that is very common on these panels and any other panel that uses this casing. If you adjust the casing the chance of backlight bleed on the actual panel is low and is comparable to any other screen. Yes if you buy this panel you will have to likely open it up and adjust the clips(AKA backlight bleed fix). Pressure light bleed is different than actual panel backlight bleed(which is usually kinda yellowish in my experiences where bleed from pressure is white) the panel very rarely has backlight bleed. Yes if you buy a different model korean monitor that doesn't use this case you may have a better chance of not having to open the monitor up and fix it.

If you don't mind opening up the monitor bezel and making some corrections then this is going to be your best bang for your buck. If you want to spend around an extra 100$ to get what i would consider a lesser panel just so it will have a different bezel and have less of a chance you will have to open it up then go for it. People pay for convenience and that is what we are talking about here. I just to make it clear that the Qnix and Xstar do not have a high rate of backlight bleed over really any other panel, they have a garbage bezel that DOES have a high rate of needing to be adjusted. I personally don't count the bezel as a deciding factor since i don't mind either de-bezeling or taking just 20 minutes to adjust it and with the video tutorials we have in the OP there is no reason anyone can't do this. If you don't want to have to deal with it then i recommend finding the best deal you can on another korean model that has a different case.

bottom line

panel /= case
not buying a panel because of a 20 minute case adjustment just seems silly to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookybiscuit View Post

If I can't get to 120Hz is it more likely the cable or the monitor?

First i would say not enough information. Are you getting no picture at all at 120hz? Artifacts/scanlines at 120hz? Is there one solid line that is a bit there no matter the OC?

The panel, cable, timings, GFx card/ports and drivers all work together. Having a fail point can give you certain side effects that will tell you and us what it may be. Without more info no-one is going to be able to honestly answer that question.
Edited by Spartan F8 - 9/22/13 at 7:52am
post #7225 of 25893
Sorry I don't have the monitor yet, just looking for info before I get one. I'm just concerned because I made a custom resolution of 2560x1440p 96Hz (which alot of people seem to go for), and no game seems to accept it, it just doesn't appear, but if I go back and make 60Hz or 120Hz with it, 1440p appears.
post #7226 of 25893
uncheck extension block? it is the first selection in CRU?

Just wait for the monitor.. tongue.gif
post #7227 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

I am not sure you have understood. There is a pressure bleed that is very common on these panels and any other panel that uses this casing. If you adjust the casing the chance of backlight bleed on the actual panel is low and is comparable to any other screen. Yes if you buy this panel you will have to likely open it up and adjust the clips(AKA backlight bleed fix). Pressure light bleed is different than actual panel backlight bleed(which is usually kinda yellowish in my experiences where bleed from pressure is white) the panel very rarely has backlight bleed. Yes if you buy a different model korean monitor that doesn't use this case you may have a better chance of not having to open the monitor up and fix it.

If you don't mind opening up the monitor bezel and making some corrections then this is going to be your best bang for your buck. If you want to spend around an extra 100$ to get what i would consider a lesser panel just so it will have a different bezel and have less of a chance you will have to open it up then go for it. People pay for convenience and that is what we are talking about here. I just to make it clear that the Qnix and Xstar do not have a high rate of backlight bleed over really any other panel, they have a garbage bezel that DOES have a high rate of needing to be adjusted. I personally don't count the bezel as a deciding factor since i don't mind either de-bezeling or taking just 20 minutes to adjust it and with the video tutorials we have in the OP there is no reason anyone can't do this. If you don't want to have to deal with it then i recommend finding the best deal you can on another korean model that has a different case.

bottom line

panel /= case
not buying a panel because of a 20 minute case adjustment just seems silly to me.
First i would say not enough information. Are you getting no picture at all at 120hz? Artifacts/scanlines at 120hz? Is there one solid line that is a bit there no matter the OC?

The panel, cable, timings, GFx card/ports and drivers all work together. Having a fail point can give you certain side effects that will tell you and us what it may be. Without more info no-one is going to be able to honestly answer that question.

Thanks for clarifying! i have no problem at all opening it up and fix it. now ive just ordred the x-star and hope it will arrive in great condition without the yellowish bleed!
post #7228 of 25893
Does the image retention @ 120hz pose any real significant risk over time? It goes away in about 5-10 minutes of being @ 60hz, but will it reduce image quality over time?
I got my pixel clock down to 460 without artifacts but it seems to retain the image worse than when I was running it at 461 or higher.
post #7229 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyHimitsu View Post

Does the image retention @ 120hz pose any real significant risk over time? It goes away in about 5-10 minutes of being @ 60hz, but will it reduce image quality over time?
I got my pixel clock down to 460 without artifacts but it seems to retain the image worse than when I was running it at 461 or higher.

I would hope that no one can answer this question at least from experience. I don't think anyone has willingly left there monitor on without a screensaver or a screen timeout. So i think it is pretty safe to say no-one knows for sure without a theoretical standpoint. Looking at the way the technology works it is possible that if you let your monitor repeatedly be exposed to long term(hours) image retention than yes it could reduce color accuracy over time especially in the parts of the screen that the image retention is most frequent. I would highly recommend not doing so as it would be purposefully destroying your monitor.

If you optimized the timings and are still getting image retention it might be a good idea to stick with 96hz. OR take measures to make sure the image retention is not happening or is at least very short term all the time. This can be done by a screen saver, running at 96hz/60hz on the desktop, making sure you exit(or minimize) your game when leaving the computer or just setting a hard screen timeout. There are also screen savers that are designed for reversing image retention(look up plasma TV retention screen savers).

Bottom line is either turn the refresh down or be very responsible when leaving the computer running. Also in times of surfing when the top border is stationary drop to 60hz/96hz. I don't have image retention at 120hz anymore but at 140hz(which is the highest i can go without too much uniformity issues) still gives me image retention so i don't use that refresh when surfing but i might use it games(never leaving it unattended over 30 minutes straight).

Hope this helps thumb.gif
post #7230 of 25893
Okay, so I bought a new dvi cable and there is no change, that vertical line still appears. It looks to me its a fault with the panel.

Is it really worth going through the hassle of returning this only to risk having dead pixels/more blb for another gamble of possibly being able to overclock past 60hz?
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