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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 741

post #7401 of 25888
Mine is at 100hz right now. Had problems at 110 hz. Just don't care. It has no dead pixels and a great panel
post #7402 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by haralla View Post

so considering it overclocks to 120mhz you reckon it is worth just keeping? TBH I can't even see the dead pixel from normal viewing distance

What games are you playing that it impacts you at 120 hz vs 96 hz or whatever? Dead pixels are another matter.
post #7403 of 25888
Ok, so I wasn't able to get past the black framed bracket-like diffuser that lies underneath the LCD. Has anyone determined where there might be some clips or tiny hidden screws which are holding the bracket? I doubt that I have to use an unreasonable amount of prying force to get it to pop out.

Unfortunately, although the videos are very helpful, the actual removal of the bracket was skipped over since the next video just shows it off the panel assembly on the side.
post #7404 of 25888
My Qnix matte came from IPSLED today. Im using the Asus ICC recommended in the first post.

First impressions, wow, this is glorious. I don't believe I have any stuck pixels. I did a quick scan, but will go over it with a fine tooth comb later on.

The good news is 120hz seems to work just fine? I created a custom profile in the Nvidia control panel and that was all I had to do. No CRU, no nothing. I used the web frame skip test, and with little else running I get the Valid/green sign. Counter Strike GO seemed to run just fine at 120hz too. The tint does seem to dim every so slightly, hardly noticeable when I go from 60hz to 120hz. If I were to show someone who wasn't staring at it for 20 minutes, they probably couldn't even tell. So I guess its fine?


That is my black light bleed. I think because of my camera the picture makes it look a tad bit worse than it actually is.

Is that bad? Return worthy? Or since I seem to hit 120hz just deal with it or try the paper fix or remove the bezel? I do have a new stand on the way so I will be taking it apart at least partially sometime early next week.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrolds View Post

you may be able to fix it without taking out the metal frame by jamming some pieces of paper between the front frame and behind bezel (so that it presses against the frame)

Youll know what i mean if you use your thumbs to press down on the bezel.

Are there directions somewhere on exactly how to do this? Should I try it?
Edited by JSK23 - 9/26/13 at 9:09pm
post #7405 of 25888
eh, that doesn't look bad at all. maybe try loosening the screws in the back?
post #7406 of 25888
I think I might have lucked out, I've been playing around with the two I ordered for a few hours now, and they're both in great shape. No dead/stuck pixels for the moment (though I haven't done a through test, I don't really want to) and no obvious backlight bleed either, but again I haven't fully tested/examined.

I'm actually fairly surprised that they worked easily, just plugged in and powered up without issue, hopefully they don't catch fire on me in a few weeks...
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post #7407 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSK23 View Post

My Qnix matte came from IPSLED today. Im using the Asus ICC recommended in the first post.

First impressions, wow, this is glorious. I don't believe I have any stuck pixels. I did a quick scan, but will go over it with a fine tooth comb later on.

The good news is 120hz seems to work just fine? I created a custom profile in the Nvidia control panel and that was all I had to do. No CRU, no nothing. I used the web frame skip test, and with little else running I get the Valid/green sign. Counter Strike GO seemed to run just fine at 120hz too. The tint does seem to dim every so slightly, hardly noticeable when I go from 60hz to 120hz. If I were to show someone who wasn't staring at it for 20 minutes, they probably couldn't even tell. So I guess its fine?


That is my black light bleed. I think because of my camera the picture makes it look a tad bit worse than it actually is.

Is that bad? Return worthy? Or since I seem to hit 120hz just deal with it or try the paper fix or remove the bezel? I do have a new stand on the way so I will be taking it apart at least partially sometime early next week.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!


Are there directions somewhere on exactly how to do this? Should I try it?

That BLB isnt bad, isnt perfect either - i dont think loosening the screws will help but you can try it. If you look at my previous post http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6940#post_20803131 you can see where i put paper inserts inbetween the bezel and the frame to put pressure on the panel which removed the BLB.

With the cover still on - i pressed on the bezel using my thumbs to guage where the best places to put them, marked them with tape. Removed the bezel and folded up pieces of paper and put them in the right places. Put the bezel back on and it helped alot.

If that still doesnt work - you may have to take the metal frame out and straighten it, theres videos on the front page for that. Just be careful, you pry the little inside latches off the hinges and the bezel should come off with a bit of work.
post #7408 of 25888
Anyone know what the default brightness is like how many clicks from the lowest on the QNIX. just not sure what brightness to set it too before calibrating.
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post #7409 of 25888
Would it be possible to replace the stand with something like this?

If so, do you need screws? A mounting bracket? How does it work? =P

Also, first time poster =D
post #7410 of 25888
Hi guys, I got my QX2710 this morning from green-sum.

The monito comes with:

1x MOSTCN switching adapter, which has a small circle plug and an inlet for a 3-pin PSU cable
1x 3 pin to USA plug
1x headphone jack
1x DVI cable

As a UK user whos househould has 3 pin plugs, how do I set this thing up? Do I need to use this switching adapter thing or can I just put my current 1080 3 pin plug into this monitor and plug that straight into the socket in the wall?
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