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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 802

post #8011 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekerZA View Post

Was playing around a lot more.

My new results, not much difference from before but i did get the pixel clock lower

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaolin95 View Post




It was calibrated for 120cda on a dark room so no idea why it will be too bright for you, specially since it seems for gaming some people like brighter.
I got one calibrated with ambient reading on which makes things darker even with a reading of lux 0
You can test this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11789282/Forum120hz2ndtry11ClicksD65.icm

@shaolin95, thanks ill give it a shot.


@SeekerZA, can you please explain the benefits of lower pixel clock?
Edited by theilya - 10/11/13 at 10:06am
post #8012 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camberwell View Post

Thanks for this, I was using shaolin95's to start with (and props to him for posting his timings) but was getting one narrow stripe down the monitor (only on OCN and with BF4 actually). These settings have sorted that. Between 3 kids and work, I don't get enough time to play around with the settings much so you guys have saved me a lot of time, and now I can really enjoy my new toy thumb.gif
I dont even recall posting timings just ICS profiles. I must be losing my mind or is the high fever I got biggrin.gif
post #8013 of 25888
To my understanding from reading, i stand corrected keep that in mind!

Lowering pixel clock is what we want when overclocking these panels, to help reduce the overclock effects which are visibly seen the higher you overclock.

I can see the difference from 96Hz to 120Hz. Well almost hard to tell now though tongue.gif

BUT the overall image went darker and the color felt slightly drawn back. rolleyes.gif
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post #8014 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaolin95 View Post

I dont even recall posting timings just ICS profiles. I must be losing my mind or is the high fever I got biggrin.gif

Oops, not your fever, just me! I am actually using your ICC profile for 120Hz, which is great, so thanks for that! Been so busy trawling through this thread to get the best info, I lose track...rolleyes.gif
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post #8015 of 25888
hahah cool. Glad that worked. Its a good thread sharing stuff like I am using someone elses timing settings etc so it is very useful. thumb.gif
post #8016 of 25888
so basically find whatever OC you can run with no lines, then start decreasing the pixel clock for better colors until you get artifacts?

And people are saying mono price cables are actually better?
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post #8017 of 25888
wrong topic

edit
Edited by theilya - 10/11/13 at 1:33pm
post #8018 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrptJim View Post

The yellow light means that you may have a bent panel. If you aren't sending it back, definitely open the casing and take a look. Check my post in this thread to see how I fixed mine. I should compile them into one post.

Oh good thing it's fixable! I'll definitely check yours once I open it up.

Thanks!! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrolds View Post

I used a butter knife to pry the casing off lol - but you might want to be careful as i knicked the plastic in some places. Just put it into the seam and twist, the first time you take the casing off its a bit stubborn so try 2 butter knives to lessen the pressure on one point smile.gif Just keep turning until you hear a pop - dont worry it wont break, just keep aware of the case.

Make sure you have a set of screwdrivers, because the panel that houses the board uses something like 1mm philips head screws (very tiny) and youre going to need to remove it to get to the other screws that hold the metal frame in place

The metal frame uses tabs or something to keep it in place, IIRC i had the panel face down so i can use my butter knife to pry the tab out and over the latch thing tongue.gif Once the frame was loose i flipped it back onto its back and lifted it out and away so i can straighten it.

Good luck - its not hard, just be careful and youll be fine.

Thanks a lot for answering! I'm gonna use a butter knife then, sounds safe too.

Thanks again! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xentar712 View Post

Oh, and use a plastic opening tool instead of a screwdriver if you want your casing to not look like it was chewed open. If you don't have one now, get some for the future. Chances are you will use one again someday. You can get a dozen. for $5 on eBay

A dozen for $5? Not bad at all! I'll use a butter knife like jerrolds suggested.

Thanks! thumb.gif
post #8019 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by theilya View Post

wrong topic

edit

Nice.

I have just a few questions before I buy a monitor that maybe someone could help me with. I've tried reading through the thread a bit and the 1st page, but I am juust a little bit unsure of what's what and when spending so much I want to be 100% confident.

1. I have an AMD 7950 3GB right now it's overclocked to 1100 / 1525 with no problems although I've had it at 1200/1700 before fine with Shogun 2, artifacting in Skyrim.
Is this a good video card for this monitor? I know it's not the worlds best, but it's pretty powerful I think. I actually have 2 of these cards, but I haven't crossfired them yet as I was going to use the second for another build, but if I have to I might put it in mine and just use my old 560-Ti for the other. I assume 2x 7950 would be enough to do 1440p but how high could I expect to overclock the *Monitor* with my gpus still keeping up? I know no one can say for sure, but a rough estimate would be great. Ideally I would like to shoot for 96Hz refresh rate, but I'm doubtful whether my one 7950 could push that alone.

2. Qnix or X-Star?
I know they are essentially the same and it seems most people go for the QNIX. Is there any reason to go for one over the other, like recent quality control or anything?

3. Where to buy. I see 4 options.
$309.90 - GreenSum do they get hit with customs charges now? I remember seeing someone say something about them or AW getting hit.
$346.48 - Amazon (ECOMADE ARENA)
$350.84 - ipsledmonitors
$359.58 (5-15 day ship) or $369.58 for 3-5 day shipping from neofeel
What is the best option for me? I live in the US. Is it worth it to pay $41 more from ipsledmonitors? I can't get a good read on the shipping/return situation from GreenSum. Some people saying they want you to pay but you can talk them out of it or have to do something to get them to? I wouldn't mind paying a little more to ensure return shipping is free and easy and/or that my money is staying in the US, but is that big of a difference (13%) worth it? Is there any difference in the quality of panels between the two vendors? The newegg and amazon look too risky to me.

4. It seems like I will need to buy a new cable and probably mount I see the mounts, but everyone talking about the monoprice cable and I don't see a link for it?

5. Is that it? Am I missing anything?

I'm really looking forward to upgrading from my 27" Hanns G 1980x1200 LCD monitor. It's a good number of years old now and even though there is no BLB or dead pixels, everything just feels kind of dull and its a big thick clunky monitor.

Thanks for any help guys, I know I must be the 10000th person to ask these questions biggrin.gif
post #8020 of 25888
Call me overly cautious but all The minor issues people have running at 120hz must mean its doing some sort of long term damage ?? It's not normal for 120hz to cause a dull image and lines surely. I think I'm just going to stick with 60hz, not to mention the fact that their aren't that many games I could have max settings in and maintain 120 fps.
Edited by mboner1 - 10/11/13 at 3:52pm
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