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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 827

post #8261 of 25935
I hate to say it but as it stands now, i have an Shinmian on the way just got my XSTAR in and have owned my Overlord Tempest for over a year now. The XSTAR is very vibrant, the colors are much better than the Overlord in my opinion. The reason being is because looks like the Overlord doesn't use a true white led, its coated blue, so no matter what you do, you can not change the blue hue you see, no matter what you do. I can get both monitors close but i can't get them exact. Im considering getting two more and selling off the Overlord and Shinmian. The overlord looks fat next to the XSTAR as well. I ended up getting a pixel perfect with minimal light bleed from Dreamsellers if anyone cares.
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post #8262 of 25935
Quote:
Originally Posted by jojoenglish85 View Post

I hate to say it but as it stands now, i have an Shinmian on the way just got my XSTAR in and have owned my Overlord Tempest for over a year now. The XSTAR is very vibrant, the colors are much better than the Overlord in my opinion. The reason being is because looks like the Overlord doesn't use a true white led, its coated blue, so no matter what you do, you can not change the blue hue you see, no matter what you do. I can get both monitors close but i can't get them exact. Im considering getting two more and selling off the Overlord and Shinmian. The overlord looks fat next to the XSTAR as well. I ended up getting a pixel perfect with minimal light bleed from Dreamsellers if anyone cares.
You could always remove tints with software calibration although there is a loss in the color palette (little impact on consumer use and hardly noticeable if not using the monitor for color-accurate work). You would need a colorimeter.

The Spyder4Express package sells for ~$100 and gives you (as all I've seen leads me to believe) the same sensor as the higher-end packages (Pro, Elite) sans the ambient light sensor and the more advanced software. Coupled with free software like HCFR or ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI, you've got yourself a pretty good calibration. Is weak at measuring black level though.

At $170, the Colormunki Display which (seems to) uses a similar sensor to the i1 Display Pro (colorimeter!) but lacks support in 3rd-party color apps (SDK was never released).

At $250, the (reference) i1DP is excellent for the price.

You will never be able to get two monitors (especially different models) to look exactly the same without sacrificing quality for at least one of them.

On a sidenote, bluish tints are not necessarily from the White LED backlight. Blue errors are the least noticeable so they could slip as inaccuracy into panels. Green, then Red, errors are the most noticeable so those have a smaller tolerance.

These PLS panels seem to have either pure whites or a yellow tint to them. Smaller variance than the S-IPS panels on the other Korean monitors (not necessarily all).

Mine has that yellow tint, corrected it with a Spyder4 at 60Hz, 96Hz, 110Hz. I will make those ICC profiles available soon.

P.S.: RIP English, lack of sleep does that to me.
Edited by yasamoka - 10/18/13 at 2:47pm
post #8263 of 25935
Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder View Post

Whats the point of that if it isn't over heating?

Life span. If you run higher than normal refresh than you produce more heat by the resulting data rate that is processed. The panel may not be overheating outright but it is operating at a higher than normal temp. Just the same as you would buy a better heatsink for a CPU or GPU that is overclocked even if it can run the overclock at some ridiculous temp(like 60 C for AMD or like 80 for intel) you generally want it to run at a lower operating temp so it doesn't potentially die in 2 years.
post #8264 of 25935
Thinking about pulling the trigger on two X-Star DP2710 one with DVI only and another with DVI, VGA & HDMI. I have a Windows 7 box with a GTX660 and a MacBook Pro Retina 15". I would also buy a dual link dvi KVM and two thunderbolt to dual link adapters for my MacBook. Any gaming I do on my Windows 7 box would be through the dual link DVI. Regarding hooking up the second monitor to Windows 7, will HDMI work at 2560x1440 to my GTX660 as long as I buy a HDMI 1.4 cable?
post #8265 of 25935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

I am not sure why people repeatedly say the multi-input version does not overclock. I myself have never seen evidence that it didn't so i am not sure where many have gotten this info.

I believe this is/was the case with (some) of the IPS offerings? And it stood to reason that the scaler would increase input lag or otherwise somehow render the PCB unable to hit higher pixel clocks. Though, yeah, apparently just speculation and too much of it.
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post #8266 of 25935
Okay... I took the plunge and bought the Qnix QX2710,

Pretty excited about this. Really want to feel how the 1440p gaming feel at 90+hz


Anyone know a lifespan on these qnix with OC?
Edited by Darkshowdo - 10/18/13 at 7:37pm
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post #8267 of 25935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkshowdo View Post

Okay... I took the plunge and bought the Qnix QX2710,

Pretty excited about this. Really want to feel how the 1440p gaming feel at 90+hz


Anyone know a lifespan on these qnix with OC?

Nope. But it doesn't look like to many of the korean models have broken down just yet if you check these poll results. If it works when you get it, then it's probz going to be alright, although over clocking has caused people some issues recently.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up
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post #8268 of 25935
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboner1 View Post

Nope. But it doesn't look like to many of the korean models have broken down just yet if you check these poll results. If it works when you get it, then it's probz going to be alright, although over clocking has caused people some issues recently.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up

Good to know,

Think i may just leave it at 60hz for a little to i get adjusted to it.
Then maybe look further into it.


Just so im correct from what i have been seeing on videos and other places.
Loosening the 4 screws at the bottom can make the light bleed it less noticeable?
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post #8269 of 25935
Got mine when this thread was around 20 post ( so april maybe ) and working perfectly at 96 mhz without any problem.
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post #8270 of 25935
Anyone trying to connect a Qnix/X-Star DL-DVI to a Mac requires an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter. The person I bought this Qnix from had it working with a Mac and showed it to me in person. His adapter needed to be powered by a USB cable, so it was definitely an active adapter. (Please add to FAQ section in OP)

Well I just setup my Qnix and comparing it to my HP ZR22w (non-LED 6-bit S-IPS) and HP ZR2240w (LED 6-bit S-IPS) they are all almost the same in terms of panel/ color quality.

In terms of build quality, the HP monitors rock due to being the entry-level professional-grade monitors that they are. Everyone wasn't kidding about the crappy build quality of the Qnix. Not only does it move around when I'm typing on my keyboard, it is slightly leaning towards the right side, so it is off by about 10~15 degrees (not really acceptable).

Fortunately for me, my seller gave me a desk arm mount and I plan to use the arm for my HP ZR2240w and the coveted HP stand for the Qnix. thumb.gif
I will be testing out for BLB, dead pixels, and of course overclocking. wink.gif

Below are my thoughts about comparing the Qnix to my HP ZR22w and HP ZR2240w.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The Qnix is very vibrant in colors and almost makes my IPS monitors look washed out. It has a higher saturation in colors and has a slight reddish tint to the colors (possibly the LED itself).

My HP ZR22w has the most natural colors, though it has a very slight blue/cool tint to them and makes things look softer. My guess is that the fluorescent lighting doesn't have such an aggressive red tint (LEDs tent to have a reddish tint to their lighting, which make LED whites "pop out" more).

My HP ZR2240w is very reddish compared to both and most likely needs a better color profile. However, the colors match very closely to the Qnix except that the blues are being affected by the red tint.

It is easier to spot details on my HP monitors as their colors aren't as vibrant as the Qnix, so this is one downside of the Qnix. While the vibrant colors make the Qnix more appealing to look at, the natural colors of the HP ZR22w would be better if it were to be used for photography/graphics design/etc.

For blacks, all 3 are excellent, though the cooler-tinted HP ZR22w makes it look like it has a darker black.

What's the best part? I got my used (2-months) Qnix for $180, though I had to drive about 2 hours one-way (4 hours total) to get such a deal.

Edit: Almost no BLB detected! There's just a slight bleed toward the upper-right top side, but it's so faint that it might just be IPS/PLS glow.

No dead pixels! cheers.gif

120Hz with 459Mhz settings done!


Edited by Kokin - 10/19/13 at 12:43pm
    
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