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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 828

post #8271 of 25893
I just recently got my X-star. I'm trying to test with 120hz and it only works when I have my X-star enabled, but once I enable my other monitor (an old 21" 60hz), it starts giving 'Poor performance' errors in testufo.com

System:
4 gigs of RAM
4670k stock
Gigabyte GTX 770

Any ideas?

EDIT: Did a little more fiddling around. When I have both monitors enabled, I'm getting a max refresh rate of 60hz. Also, when I try to overclock to 144hz, I get blue/red/greens lines.
Edited by tangosmango - 10/18/13 at 10:57pm
post #8272 of 25893
I get bad (coil?) whine coming from my QX2710 when there's high FPS in games such as loading screens and Minecraft at 120Hz. Does anyone have a fix for this?
post #8273 of 25893
Hey guys, i'm getting a horizontal flash across my screen every now and again when i scroll the mouse up and down, it's happening 3 or 4 times a day, nothing major just wondering if it's to do with timings and if i could fix it?? Or even is it likely to get worse???
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post #8274 of 25893
I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......
Edited by Testier - 10/18/13 at 11:43pm
post #8275 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testier View Post

I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......

See my post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokin View Post


Below are my thoughts about comparing the Qnix to my HP ZR22w and HP ZR2240w.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The Qnix is very vibrant in colors and almost makes my IPS monitors look washed out. It has a higher saturation in colors and has a slight reddish tint to the colors (possibly the LED itself).

My HP ZR22w has the most natural colors, though it has a very slight blue/cool tint to them and makes things look softer. My guess is that the fluorescent lighting doesn't have such an aggressive red tint (LEDs tent to have a reddish tint to their lighting, which make LED whites "pop out" more).

My HP ZR2240w is very reddish compared to both and most likely needs a better color profile. However, the colors match very closely to the Qnix except that the blues are being affected by the red tint.

It is easier to spot details on my HP monitors as their colors aren't as vibrant as the Qnix, so this is one downside of the Qnix. While the vibrant colors make the Qnix more appealing to look at, the natural colors of the HP ZR22w would be better if it were to be used for photography/graphics design/etc.

For blacks, all 3 are excellent, though the cooler-tinted HP ZR22w makes it look like it has a darker black.

It's probably best you go for a definite working product.

I took a 4-hr drive and $180 risk, but I already knew it was guaranteed no dead pixels from my seller. The monitor getting no/little BLB and overclocking to 120Hz was icing on the cake. 120Hz is definitely noticeable, but it really isn't necessary outside of FPS games.

The Qnix is definitely a beautiful monitor and I'm already liking it over my HP IPS Eyefinity setup. 27" is the perfect size for me considering my Eyefinity setup is similar to a 40" monitor/TV.
    
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post #8276 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testier View Post

I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......

One more time for those in the cheap seats...

I don't know where your getting your assumptions from but you can google the panel used. It's a 8 bit pls banel which is used in the highest end $1200 + samsung monitor. I have owned a lot of different monitors in the last few months and this one smashes the rest by far. As far as ips vs pls is concerned the ips panels usually are brighter, with less pop but more accuracy to colors, and worse black levels, obviously in contrast you are getting better blacks, colors with more pop but less accurate (slightly over saturated) and slightly lower brightness. With the asus pb278q i owned (2560x1440p pls panel) i did definitely notice the lower brightness and the black crush i had was unacceptable at any brightness setting. With this i don't see that at all at any brightness setting, i have it calibrated using the spyder elite 3.

So you say you know about icc profiles well the only downside of this panel vs a ips would be slightly over saturated colors (which a lot of people prefer hence samsungs popularity with hdtv's) which can be fixed by calibrating your qnix. You are right in saying someone elses profile might not help, but as you say every panel is different, even every dell will be different and you might get one that you personally think is worse or you might get one that you personally think is better than a qnix, no one can decide for you, but to say "So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors" is just wrong.
Edited by mboner1 - 10/19/13 at 12:38am
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post #8277 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboner1 View Post

One more time for those in the cheap seats...

I don't know where your getting your assumptions from but you can google the panel used. It's a 8 bit pls banel which is used in the highest end $1200 + samsung monitor. I have owned a lot of different monitors in the last few months and this one smashes the rest by far. As far as ips vs pls is concerned the ips panels usually are brighter, with less pop but more accuracy to colors, and worse black levels, obviously in contrasy you are getting better blacks, colors with more pop but less accurate (slightly over saturated) and slightly lower brightness. With the asus pb278q i owned (2560x1440p pls panel) i did definitely notice the lower brightness and the black crush i had was unacceptable at any brightness setting. With this i don't see that at all at any brightness setting, i have it calibrated using the spyder elite 3.

So you say you know about icc profiles well the only downside of this panel vs a ips would be slightly over saturated colors (which a lot of people prefer hence samsungs popularity with hdtv's) which can be fixed by calibrating your qnix. You are right in saying someone elses profile might not help, but as you say every panel is different, even every dell will be different and you might get one that you personally think is worse or you might get one that you personally think is better than a qnix, no one can decide for you, but to say "So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors" is just wrong.

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post #8278 of 25893
I could really use some convincing here. Right now my current monitor is a 20" 1600x900 Asus monitor doh.gif (I know, I know:). I'm upgrading my GPU to a 280x and I desperately need to upgrade my monitor. I'm not sure if I should upgrade to a 23" 1080p monitor for around $150ish or just go all out and get a QNIX/X-STAR(leaning towards the X-STAR but still not sure which I would choose).

So deep down I think I want to go for the 1440p monitor and shell out the extra cash, I just need a little extra push to hit that "Submit Order" button. Can anyone else that was in my situation or anyone in general help?
post #8279 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by tkotter View Post

I could really use some convincing here. Right now my current monitor is a 20" 1600x900 Asus monitor doh.gif (I know, I know:). I'm upgrading my GPU to a 280x and I desperately need to upgrade my monitor. I'm not sure if I should upgrade to a 23" 1080p monitor for around $150ish or just go all out and get a QNIX/X-STAR(leaning towards the X-STAR but still not sure which I would choose).

So deep down I think I want to go for the 1440p monitor and shell out the extra cash, I just need a little extra push to hit that "Submit Order" button. Can anyone else that was in my situation or anyone in general help?

push the button a 280x @ 1080p is a waste


Also guys It seems I just cant hit 120hz (can hit 110 no problem with 420mhz clock) is it likely my monitor PCB, gfx card or the wire it comes with? I guess my first option is switch my xfire setup around and see if it will do 120hz with the other card if not. Buy the 24 gauge mono price wire?
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post #8280 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testier View Post

I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......

I have gone gone back and checked every post that was somewhat after or a direct reply to you and no one at any point said ANYTHING that could be even interpreted or indicated as a confirmation or even hint that these were somehow a 6bit panel(WHICH IS COMPLETELY FALSE).

What i did find is several members(including me) telling you it was most definitely proven to be a true 8bit panel. Now i just want anyone who sees these posts and then sees the later resulting reply from this person and think about the credibility here. Interestingly enough if you go to any credible review site(including this one) many very reputable testers will tell you PLS is VERY comparable in quality to AH-IPS which is the best version of IPS currently out.

I said it once and i will say it again, Please keep mis-information to yourself if you insist on believing it. rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder View Post

push the button a 280x @ 1080p is a waste


Also guys It seems I just cant hit 120hz (can hit 110 no problem with 420mhz clock) is it likely my monitor PCB, gfx card or the wire it comes with? I guess my first option is switch my xfire setup around and see if it will do 120hz with the other card if not. Buy the 24 gauge mono price wire?

Agreed about the 280x for 1080p

First what are your timings for 120hz? Also the wire length is generally more important than the gauge(but i would stick with at least 28AWG). I tried tons of cables and a 28AWG 3' cable ended up being the best by about 4hz(which was a cheap cable). Changing the xfire setup can help. My cards ports all have a 2-3hz difference between them.
Edited by Spartan F8 - 10/19/13 at 12:51am
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