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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 830

post #8291 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by drdrache View Post

it;s a know issue with the patch, read the OP of the patch for fixes

The only thing i can see is to disable hardware accelaration and i have already done that via ccc and by clicking on the youtube video. Any other suggestions i'm missing??
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post #8292 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboner1 View Post

The only thing i can see is to disable hardware acceleration and i have already done that via ccc and by clicking on the youtube video. Any other suggestions i'm missing??

updates should be on par, but I had the same issue until I turned off accelerations and DVXA on nearly everything.
120hz 7970ghz, 13.11beta1 drivers.

the accelerations have to turned off on each software component, not in CCC.
post #8293 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by drdrache View Post

updates should be on par, but I had the same issue until I turned off accelerations and DVXA on nearly everything.
120hz 7970ghz, 13.11beta1 drivers.

the accelerations have to turned off on each software component, not in CCC.

Cheers man, just turned off all instances (4) of dvxa in in media player classic and that seems to have resolved the issue there, will try firefox again after i re install it. Going to have to calibrate again, picture looks a tad crappy now. I have 110hz with a pixel clock of 443, that's acceptable yeah??

I gave rep+ but hasn't added it yet for some reason mad.gif
Edited by mboner1 - 10/19/13 at 6:22am
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post #8294 of 25922
anyone know how to remove the overclock completely??
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post #8295 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboner1 View Post

anyone know how to remove the overclock completely??

reset-all.exe in the CRU zip, then reboot.
post #8296 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokin View Post

Anyone trying to connect a Qnix/X-Star DL-DVI to a Mac requires an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter. The person I bought this Qnix from had it working with a Mac and showed it to me in person. His adapter needed to be powered by a USB cable, so it was definitely an active adapter. (Please add to FAQ section in OP)

Well I just setup my Qnix and comparing it to my HP ZR22w (non-LED 6-bit S-IPS) and HP ZR2240w (LED 6-bit S-IPS) they are all almost the same in terms of panel/ color quality.

In terms of build quality, the HP monitors rock due to being the entry-level professional-grade monitors that they are. Everyone wasn't kidding about the crappy build quality of the Qnix. Not only does it move around when I'm typing on my keyboard, it is slightly leaning towards the right side, so it is off by about 10~15 degrees (not really acceptable).

Fortunately for me, my seller gave me a desk arm mount and I plan to use the arm for my HP ZR2240w and the coveted HP stand for the Qnix. thumb.gif
I will be testing out for BLB, dead pixels, and of course overclocking. wink.gif

Below are my thoughts about comparing the Qnix to my HP ZR22w and HP ZR2240w.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The Qnix is very vibrant in colors and almost makes my IPS monitors look washed out. It has a higher saturation in colors and has a slight reddish tint to the colors (possibly the LED itself).

My HP ZR22w has the most natural colors, though it has a very slight blue/cool tint to them and makes things look softer. My guess is that the fluorescent lighting doesn't have such an aggressive red tint (LEDs tent to have a reddish tint to their lighting, which make LED whites "pop out" more).

My HP ZR2240w is very reddish compared to both and most likely needs a better color profile. However, the colors match very closely to the Qnix except that the blues are being affected by the red tint.

It is easier to spot details on my HP monitors as their colors aren't as vibrant as the Qnix, so this is one downside of the Qnix. While the vibrant colors make the Qnix more appealing to look at, the natural colors of the HP ZR22w would be better if it were to be used for photography/graphics design/etc.

For blacks, all 3 are excellent, though the cooler-tinted HP ZR22w makes it look like it has a darker black.

What's the best part? I got my used (2-months) Qnix for $180, though I had to drive about 2 hours one-way (4 hours total) to get such a deal.

Edit: Almost no BLB detected! There's just a slight bleed toward the upper-right top side, but it's so faint that it might just be IPS/PLS glow.

No dead pixels! cheers.gif

120Hz with 459Mhz settings done!


Congrats, Yeah, I guess the 27 Korean are alright.... But though, anyone have any comparison against true 8 bit panels? Actually, anyone have comparison between 6 bit IPS vs 8 bit IPS?
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post #8297 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by drdrache View Post

reset-all.exe in the CRU zip, then reboot.

Hmm tried that , I think this over clocking has confused my spyder elite, seems to be trying to calibrate to the wrong black level , I'm getting massive black crush after disabling the over clock and resetting all settings. Can't see all the boxes in the black level test where I had it perfect before. This sucks.
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post #8298 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboner1 View Post

Hmm tried that , I think this over clocking has confused my spyder elite, seems to be trying to calibrate to the wrong black level , I'm getting massive black crush after disabling the over clock and resetting all settings. Can't see all the boxes in the black level test where I had it perfect before. This sucks.


you can also delete all monitors in CRU, shutdown, start up the computer and it should re-detect the monitor.
post #8299 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

I have gone gone back and checked every post was somewhat after or a direct reply to you and no one at any point said ANYTHING that could be even interpreted or indicated as a confirmation or even hint that these were somehow a 6bit panel(WHICH IS COMPLETELY FALSE).

What i did find is several members(including me) telling you it was most definitely proven to be a true 8bit panel. Now i just want anyone who sees these posts and then sees the later resulting reply from this person and think about the credibility here. Interestingly enough if you go to any credible review site(including this one) many very reputable testers will tell you PLS is VERY comparable in quality to AH-IPS which is the best version of IPS currently out.

I said it once and i will say it again, Please keep mis-information to yourself if you insist on believing it. rolleyes.gif
Agreed about the 280x for 1080p

First what are your timings for 120hz? Also the wire length is generally more important than the gauge(but i would stick with at least 28AWG). I tried tons of cables and a 28AWG 3' cable ended up being the best by about 4hz(which was a cheap cable). Changing the xfire setup can help. My cards ports all have a 2-3hz difference between them.

Wait what? I was not aware of anyone telling me it is a true 8 bit panel? Especially looking some other forum's post regarding PLS being samsung's eIPS. However, if you have informations otherwise, link me. More than happy to know. I apologize if I had not seen your post, on large threads like this, I skim through a lot of posts, however, do you have the panel serial number that I can look up for myself?

Edit dug up your post. I stand corrected. It did remind an issue of it though. W-LED. The U2711 is CCFL LCD. Is the price of RGB LED still insane?
Edited by Testier - 10/19/13 at 8:59am
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post #8300 of 25922
Quote:
Originally Posted by drdrache View Post

you can also delete all monitors in CRU, shutdown, start up the computer and it should re-detect the monitor.

Thanks, yeah I tried that already a few times, the spyder is confused, it has done this before, it starts calibrating for 16-235 and crushing blacks, and unless you can manually tell it on the TV that its 0-255 it won't change back, just hooked it up to my HDTV and did a quick calibration with TV set to full rgb and CCC set to full rgb and it has switched back, just gotta hope it stays like that when I retry the monitor with the dvi cable. Should have just stuck with 60hz dammit.
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samsung cd drive coolermaster vortex plus windows 7 ultimate Sony W800B (50 inch) 
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Corsair vengeance k65 Corsair rm1000 Fractal Design node 605 Razer Naga left hand edition 
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