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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 861

post #8601 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by JE14 View Post

I'm in the USA but I ordered from green-sum back in August and my monitor just died on me. I contacted them and it took 3 emails and the threat of a chargeback to get a response back. I sent in a video showing the defect and they told me to wait until Monday for them to respond. The monitor was great before this and I probably just got unlucky but if you do decide to purchase this monitor, from any seller, make sure you buy the Squaretrade warranty.

May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.


I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>
post #8602 of 25902
Just ordered my X-Star from dream-seller.

I can't wait!
post #8603 of 25902
My X-Star from Dreamseller is still holding good. Had it since Aug. Been running it at 120hz for a few weeks now, looks pretty darn good.

I personally wasn't happy with Dreamseller. Long story, but it's all good now.
post #8604 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by stolemyowncar View Post

May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.


I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>

Those were my thoughts exactly, .. Then I started thinking and I thought "I will just try it out and see if 96hz is as good as I remember 120hz being" .. And it was even better because its in 1440p and I decided then I had to have it lol. So I have stuck with it. Personally if I even get 6 months out of this monitor I'm happy, I went through 4 monitors in a month before getting this and I wouldn't swap it for nothing. If it dies I get another one. Obviously I want it to last but at this price I would go 2 more times before I gave up on them lol.
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I'm back baby!!!
(23 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 4670k Asus sabertooth z97 mark 2 sapphire tri x r9 290 corsair ripjaws x 1600 (16gb) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
samsung evo 120gb ssd seagate 1tb hdd 1tb external hdd seagate 2tb hdd 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
samsung cd drive coolermaster vortex plus windows 7 ultimate Sony W800B (50 inch) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair vengeance k65 Corsair rm1000 Fractal Design node 605 Razer Naga left hand edition 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
Razer kabuto creative gigaworks t40 series ii logitech g930 wireless headset Logitech wireless touchpad 
Other
Vantec 310S3 Hard drive enclosure x2 
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post #8605 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by stolemyowncar View Post

May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.


I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>
You're just a tiny bit too pessimistic. These boards are made for the higher refresh rates else they wouldn't even overclock without skipping frames. You can get 96Hz easily without any fiddling, just a click or two.
post #8606 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by Profwoot View Post

For the VESA mount, my Shimian needed 1/4" spacers (Home Depot had some nylon ones for 32 cents each). For my old Samsung that I mounted for a couple days before my new X-Star showed up, the normal 1/2" or 3/8" screws (whatever came with; I forget the length) fit all the way in. For the X-Star, the 1/4" spacers were too big, so I found some old nylon washers laying around that were maybe 1/8"-ish that worked perfectly. It doesn't seem like hole depth has any consistency. If you're waiting for a monitor (and plan a VESA mount), it might be a good idea to run and get some different sized spacers/washers so you can use your new toy when it arrives.
I wanted to install another mount too when it arrives.
Is it compatible with a Vesa mount straight away or do we need to do something before?
Which mount did you get?
post #8607 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by stolemyowncar View Post

May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.


I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>

I OC'd occasionally but not very often. It would reset itself whenever I restarted so I just stopped messing with it. They're great monitor's while they last. The quality of the pcb soldering is piss poor though. I opened mine up after it died and I was pretty amazed by how terrible it was. That being said I'd still recommend it just make sure you buy the squaretrade warranty if buying on ebay.
post #8608 of 25902
Hey everyone,

I borrowed a Spyder4Pro from one of my friends and I've created some color profiles for various refresh rates.

I've included 60, 96, 110, and 120Hz profiles,
QNIX Color Profiles.zip 10k .zip file

These were calibrated at 120 cd/m2, which is 11-12 clicks from the bottom on my monitor thumb.gif
post #8609 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zipper Fairy View Post

Hey everyone,

I borrowed a Spyder4Pro from one of my friends and I've created some color profiles for various refresh rates.

I've included 60, 96, 110, and 120Hz profiles,
QNIX Color Profiles.zip 10k .zip file

These were calibrated at 120 cd/m2, which is 11-12 clicks from the bottom on my monitor thumb.gif
Good stuff here, but did you actually specify a target luminance or did you hit a post-calibration luminance close to 120cd/m2? I'm asking this because dropping down from the native luminance of the display post-calibration to 120cd/m2 will cause loss of contrast ratio due to lowering the brightness of whites while keeping blacks the same.
post #8610 of 25902
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post

Good stuff here, but did you actually specify a target luminance or did you hit a post-calibration luminance close to 120cd/m2? I'm asking this because dropping down from the native luminance of the display post-calibration to 120cd/m2 will cause loss of contrast ratio due to lowering the brightness of whites while keeping blacks the same.

I targeted for 120 and then made sure that I was running at 120 while calibrating smile.gif

EDIT: I may have actually been running around 125 since the brightness setting clicks on these isn't super accurate, but I was close!
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