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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 922

post #9211 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmancreations View Post

I don't know anything about cables, what is AWG24 and bumpy things? lol

AWG is American Wire Gauge. The lower the AWG the fatter the cable. From Spartan F8's tests (results reported in this thread), it seems that the wire gauge is less important than wire length. The shorter the cable the better for overclocking these monitors, though it seems that cable quality varies quite a bit, even with the "same" cables.

Gauge is extremely important for high frequency digital signals.
example :
Quote:
Parallel Digital Video (e.g., DVI and HDMI):
The dominant consumer digital video formats are HDMI and DVI. In HDMI and DVI, digital signals are run at bitrates which vary with resolution, and which can run quite high; currently, the highest HDMI resolution in common use is 1080p/60, which involves running signal at 1.485 Gbps. What does wire gage have to do with this sort of application?

As with analog video--and indeed, much more so, because of the very high frequencies involved--the really important attribute of a cable is its characteristic impedance. Here, we're not dealing with coaxial cable, but with twisted pairs, where characteristic impedance is much harder to control and is liable to change significantly from one inch to the next.

The frequencies in use here do an interesting thing to the significance of wire gage, which requires a bit of three-dimensional thinking to understand. In a 1.485 Gbps bitstream, our fundamental frequency is normally considered to be about half that bitrate, or 742.5 MHz, and because we're trying to convey some harmonics of that fundamental frequency to keep our bit edges from rounding off too much to be recognized by the receiving circuit, the bandwidth required to handle that is about three times that frequency, or 2.2275 GHz. Remember "skin effect"? Well, whether we're talking about 742 MHz or 2.2 GHz, skin effect at these frequencies is extreme. There is essentially no signal flowing through the middle of an HDMI cable conductor--it is all skimming the surface.

What that means to wire gage is that an increase in size is no longer as significant as it would be at lower frequencies, because the increase in wire surface area is proportional to diameter rather than to the square of diameter. Let's consider, say, the difference between a 24 and a 22 AWG cable. If we were buying 24 or 22 AWG wire for DC power, and wanted to know how much loss we'd see in a run, we'd be interested primarily in the cross-sectional area. A 24 AWG wire has a circular mil area of 404; a 22 AWG wire has a circular mil area of 640.4. Since DC resistance is inversely proportional to this area, this makes a big difference--the resistance of the 22 AWG wire is a bit less than 2/3 the resistance of the 24, for any given distance.

But if we're looking at skin effect, the picture changes. The cross-sectional area is practically irrelevant because the "skin depth" is next to nothing. Instead of cross-sectional area, loss to resistance is going to be inversely proportional to the amount of copper through which the signal actually passes--that is, it's going to be inversely proportional to the cable's surface area--or, speaking in cross-sectional terms, its perimeter. A 24 AWG wire has a diameter of .0201 inch, and a 22 AWG wire has a diameter of .0253 inch. Since the perimeters are simply these numbers each multiplied by pi, we can see the ratio of perimeters without doing that multiplication. The 22 AWG is "bigger" than the 24 by .0253/.0201, or a factor of 1.259. When we were concerned with area of the cross-section rather than perimeter, the ratio of circular mils was much steeper: 640.4/404, making the 22 AWG "bigger" by a factor of 1.585. Instead of the use of 22 AWG dropping resistance to about 63% of the 24 AWG wire's resistance, as happens at DC, it drops resistance only to about 80% of the 24 AWG's value.

Now, any reduction in resistance is good; the point here is simply to show that it isn't as good as one might expect. If all else were equal, one would expect 22 AWG HDMI cable to be useful for a distance of about 20% longer than a similar 24 AWG cable (this almost certainly overstates the advantage, because, of course, all else isn't equal. The longer run will show greater performance losses from other factors, including capacitance, crosstalk, skew and return loss).

The cable quality factors that really matter in HDMI cable are, primarily, impedance control on the TMDS pairs (which do the heavy lifting in the HDMI cable), and skew, which is a measure of the difference in electrical length of the conductors and pairs (by "electrical length," we mean the length of the wire, as measured by the time it takes a pulse to travel down the line; this may vary from physical length for a number of reasons, most but not all of which are related to impedance control). These parameters are notoriously difficult to control, and have nothing in particular to do with wire gage except insofar as it is sometimes easier to control tolerances in larger than in smaller cable. So, wire gage means something in HDMI cable; but it is not ordinarily the primary factor in measuring cable quality. A cable with superior return loss and skew can easily outperform a larger cable in a distance run.

that pretty much sums that up, quality can out weight the need for thicker cables, but at the same time, thicker cables are needed as well. it's a 2 part solution where a better part can pick up the slack of another part, but can't carry the load (I hope that makes sense, to someone other than me) I know in spartanF8's tests it didn't matter, but the tests didn't include "premium" cables, nore cables of excess length,

NOW.. the bumpy things are ferrite cores (chokes/beads) :


which :
Quote:
Originally Posted by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead 
Ferrite beads are used to prevent interference in two directions: from a device or to a device.[1] A conductive cable acts as an antenna – if the device produces radio frequency energy, this can be transmitted through the cable, which acts as an unintentional radiator. In this case the bead is required for regulatory compliance, to reduce EMI. Conversely, if there are other sources of EMI, such as household appliances, the bead prevents the cable from acting as an antenna and receiving interference from these other devices. This is particularly common on data cables and on medical equipment


TL;DR

quality is more important than size, but not exclusively
the bumps are EMI safety, not determined by quality, all ranges use them.
Edited by drdrache - 11/14/13 at 5:09am
post #9212 of 25888
Well i sent my Monitor back with all the dead pixels, and purchased another tempered gloss one (wanted a glossy but they said they had no perfect pixel glossy left even tho they were still advertised on ebay?)
And got an email saying the tempered glass one they had was the last one and they had checked it and it had 3 dead pixels and would knock off $60 off the price of the perfect pixel price which really is what it costs extra for perfect pixel lol.

I told them no and they have refunded me the money on the 2nd one but i havent been refunded yet on the first one until it reaches korea,

So the search continues.....the price difference from sellers is all over the place....you can pay £260 right up to £440 for the same monitor?......i dont understand....then the pixel perfect policy differs from seller to seller....only AV say no dead pixels but others say 3 for pixel perfect which imo is not perfect is it?

Now i'm looking at X-star as they are the same panel.....still nothing? mad.gif
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post #9213 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by ya mother View Post

Well i sent my Monitor back with all the dead pixels, and purchased another tempered gloss one (wanted a glossy but they said they had no perfect pixel glossy left even tho they were still advertised on ebay?)
And got an email saying the tempered glass one they had was the last one and they had checked it and it had 3 dead pixels and would knock off $60 off the price of the perfect pixel price which really is what it costs extra for perfect pixel lol.

I told them no and they have refunded me the money on the 2nd one but i havent been refunded yet on the first one until it reaches korea,

So the search continues.....the price difference from sellers is all over the place....you can pay £260 right up to £440 for the same monitor?......i dont understand....then the pixel perfect policy differs from seller to seller....only AV say no dead pixels but others say 3 for pixel perfect which imo is not perfect is it?

Now i'm looking at X-star as they are the same panel.....still nothing? mad.gif


x-star is the EXACT same monitor, and the tempered are not gloss. I have one, and it's matte under the tempered. in my luck, I've gotten only 1 dead pixel over 6 monitors from dream_seller. one of them had BLB so bad, I didn't think it was fixable, some bending and tape later... done.
post #9214 of 25888
Ok guys is there any way of forcing my desktop to 60hz but my games to 96Hz?
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post #9215 of 25888
Not unless you change CRU profiles every time you are about to game. Sadly, as far as I know, this is the only way this can be done
post #9216 of 25888
Any chance I can get a link to the current 'best bet' for ordering a 27" q-nix? I can't seem to find which one I should be purchasing.

I plan on getting matte even though I don't think there will be any glare or anything- is that a good choice? I won't be near any light but will be near many other monitors and TVs and such. Everything I Google says to go with matte, though.
post #9217 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valesthesia View Post

Any chance I can get a link to the current 'best bet' for ordering a 27" q-nix? I can't seem to find which one I should be purchasing.

I plan on getting matte even though I don't think there will be any glare or anything- is that a good choice? I won't be near any light but will be near many other monitors and TVs and such. Everything I Google says to go with matte, though.

What do you mean by 'best bet'? Best bet as in best price or best bet as in OC potential/no dead pixels/BLB?
post #9218 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodr0se View Post

What do you mean by 'best bet'? Best bet as in best price or best bet as in OC potential/no dead pixels/BLB?

I'm not going to lie, I don't even know. I've done what I can reading but now I am just confused- especially when eBay is involved =) Best bet as in quality for the $$$, I'd rather pay a little extra for a seller that ends up delivering a better product.
post #9219 of 25888
Has anyone has any luck using a capture card (ex. Avermedia c985) with this monitor? Using a DVI-D to HDMI cable did not seem to work or does not maintain the 120Hz OC I currently had with just DVI-D connection. Any recommendations?
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post #9220 of 25888
Has Anyone had experience with Dream-Seller returns? My x-star has a whole row of dead pixels if it was a couple here or there i would be ok with it, but its many more than that. I would want to return it if he will pay for shipping. If not i would take a partial refund. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience.
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