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[Sponsored] Sour Apple MOTM Winner August 2014 - Page 10

post #91 of 833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noskcaj View Post

does't that stop the matte?

They make quite literally clear coat stuff that goes on and dries absolutely clear so you will still get a matte finish.

Jeffinslaw
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post #92 of 833
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffinslaw View Post

They make quite literally clear coat stuff that goes on and dries absolutely clear so you will still get a matte finish.

Jeffinslaw

thanks will take a look
post #93 of 833
Did you sand the parts before painting? If not the paint doesn't have anything to adhere to and it scratches off easily. I used 100 grit (really worn down though) and 600 grit sandpaper on my stuff and so far it seems to be sticking well.
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post #94 of 833
fresh-painted parts is a pain in the ass, but it will improve after a while tongue.gif leave it for a week or two, it should harden a little smile.gif
post #95 of 833
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgwoehr View Post

Did you sand the parts before painting? If not the paint doesn't have anything to adhere to and it scratches off easily. I used 100 grit (really worn down though) and 600 grit sandpaper on my stuff and so far it seems to be sticking well.

sandblasted and then a bit of 600 grit so they had plenty to stick to. Just wondering how good the finish will stay, especially the white parts, the black seems to rub onto them even though the parts were left to dry for several days

Will probably give everything one final coat and then just leave it AGES to dry lol
post #96 of 833
I would also suggest baking them at 150-200 degrees fahrenheit. That way, you can save time by basically baking the paint onto it. Just a suggestion! Hope it helps! thumb.gif

Jeffinslaw
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post #97 of 833
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffinslaw View Post

I would also suggest baking them at 150-200 degrees fahrenheit. That way, you can save time by basically baking the paint onto it. Just a suggestion! Hope it helps! thumb.gif

Jeffinslaw

+REP will look into this, thanks guys! Hopefully will be able to do some work on the case this afternoon, even if it is just marking up where the radiators will go but hopefully I will be able to start cutting too biggrin.gif looks like the only tool available to me will be an angle grinder though hehe wink.gif
post #98 of 833
Thread Starter 
UPDATE!

Made some changes to the first post, take a look if you like!

Today was a big day, spent 3 and a half hours in the workshop, managed to get the front panel out. Apple really didn't skimp on quality, the entire case is made from 1.5mm thick galvanised steel, a PITA to cut through, even the angle grinder struggle - I am glad I don't have to use a dremel to try do this! The problem with the grinder was that it left a right mess around the edge; I had left around 5mm around the edge anyway so I didn't scuff the final finish but it left it very chewed up as it effectively melts the steel. So I had to spend around 2 hours with a file getting it flush. Apple put a lip the whole way around the front panel to give it rigidity, so I cut around this line but I had to cut out the lip to gain a few mm inside the case which meant even more filing as where it is folded for the lip, the metal is doubly thick! Also managed to remove the locking system from the top, overly complex in my opinion and very noisy! Also held on with some standoff-esque things which were also a PITA to get out, broke one drill bit in doing so. Started off by using a centre punch to mark out for the drill bit which hardly scratched the surface! then drilled a 3mm hole through the standoffs which barely went the whole way through as the stuff was so hard the drill was just slipping, moved up to a 5mm drill bit and went the rest of the way through, once I had removed them all I then had to remove the spring at the front of the case which makes up part of the lock, simple enough. then to be able to pull it out you have to remove the plastic handle from the end which involved snapping it off, there was a little tab in the steel holding it but tried hitting it with screwdriver and hammer and it wouldn't budge! Oh well!

Thats all for my rambling! I still think that lock is ridiculously over engineered though, this case is built like it is supposed to take bullets without breaking!

PICTURES!!!





























post #99 of 833
CHEESUS... FRIGGIN'... RICE...

Want more! Fantastic job! *applauds* thumb.gif
post #100 of 833
Subbed. I have two of these at my house ive been thinking of modding, very interested to see what you do with it thumb.gif
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