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PSU cover - Page 13

post #121 of 128
Yes, with a nichrome wire you'll need a method to dial in your voltage. As I've stated in the past this gets really important if you're working with white acrylic as it'll turn yellowish if you overcook it. I have some nichrome wire on a spool but haven't gotten around to setting up version 2 yet. Something about having a CNC and a laser and not enough time for both, and I just bought a 3D printer. I am going to have way too much fun.
post #122 of 128

Are you using something different than nichrome right now?

Seems like you have an awesome workshop :)

 

I think I'm just gonna try it with the boost converter and atx psu, can't relly see why it should not work and it would be a pretty cheap solution.

What do you think is a good starting point temperature wise?

post #123 of 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

So I got pretty much all the parts ready for the bending table. Only things missing are the aluminium channel and two hinges. For the channel I think a 15mm wide one should be good.

The temperature control with the dc boost converter also seems to work pretty good. Got the resistance wire to ~330°C (contact temperature) with still some headroom.

post #124 of 128
My current bending rig is actually using a salvaged stove coil. It's wired directly to 110v AC through a Dremel speed control (analog one from decades ago). As you can imagine, unrolling and getting a stove coil truly straight is a right pain in the rear. It took me the better part of an entire afternoon. Nice thing about it though is it's very even heat production. The resistance wire is inside, then there's sand around it, and a thin steel tube shell. You want a fairly wide channel. 15mm sounds perfect. You want the acrylic soft enough to bend easily or it'll make some very bad ripples. I just tossed out a power supply cover that was reverse side painted on frosted clear because it wasn't quite loose enough and the back surface rippled. It showed in the paint and the effect looked like it was cracked.
post #125 of 128
Great thread. Thank you OP and TLHarrell for sharing your experiences. This is fantastic info.

Do you guys notice issues with dust buildup on the acrylic? It should be grounded with the case, though, right, as it touches it?
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post #126 of 128
Amazing thread. Thanks a bunch OP and TLHarrell for all the advice and help.

TL - do you use 24"x24" for the shrouds or the 12"x24"?
post #127 of 128
This really looks great. I wish someone sold these already made. I don't have the patience, or the tools, to make one myself.
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post #128 of 128
A few more fun projects that I've created. Enjoy!

Frosted clear acrylic, back painted satin black. Laser engraved white text (lighted) and blood splatter (painted only). Laser cut inlay for red lettering, back lighted. Corsair 900D midplate.


CNC milled inlay work on frosted clear acrylic. Corsair 900D midplate.


CNC milled inlay work on frosted clear acrylic. Corsair 900D midplate.


Frosted clear acrylic, logo and lettering masked before painting, pattern laser engraved. Back light diffuser laser engraved to look like a hologram. NZXT Phantom 820.


Customer designed cover. Matte black acrylic, one piece white acrylic inlay through panel. All done on the CNC.
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