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post #41 of 68
well - your oscilloscope would have to be able to handle negative voltages - probably in the region of 25-30V - if it can't handle that, i wouldn't try measuring it in case you blow the working channel. The back EMF voltages on the coil (the negative ones you see) can get pretty high!

I don't think twisting wires is gonna be a good way for setting voltages....can't you pick up something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIP-8-Switch-PCB-Key-Switch-Piano-8-Circuits-Way-Printed-Board-Switch-DIL-8-/200653911218?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2eb7e7b4b2

I'd be happier if you had switches like that, less chance of shorts. And for wiring it, some 8 core telephone wire would be good, the solid core stuff, it makes it easier to solder without and stray "hairs" to short stuff.

As it is, you're going to have to find the correct pins on the chip, and connect wires to the chip pads, or the traces connected to them somewhere. I know you were concerned about your soldering, so do you think you're up to that task, before we start?

As for the chip taking time to start - basically it should be in the "off" state even when powered, as it has no VID settings yet (the chip will pull them all to 1), so we may not see voltages till you attach wires and switches to the VID pins. Now, you can do this just with wires if you want, but if you short them on summat, the potential to pop the chip could be high.

Basically, you will need to attach one wire to each VID pin (VID0 - VID4 and VID12.5) following from the diagram on page 2 of the datasheet. You should see a small dot on one corner of the chip, 4 of the connections are up in that corner of the chip. with the dot at the top lefl, the first pin on the top of the left side is VID12.5, you want one wire there. then on the top edge from the left to right you have VID0 VID1 VID2, you want one wire each on these three pads working from the left. VID4 and VID3 are on the right hand edge - working from the top of that edge they are the third and fourth pin down, again you want one wire each there. then you'll need a couple of wires tied to ground somewhere to connect them to. Don't tie them all to ground at once, that puts out the maximum voltage, and we've not figured out if the chip is setup with an offset yet - it may put voltages out higher than what it says in the table.

I hope thats enough for you to start. biggrin.gif
post #42 of 68
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by latelesley View Post

well - your oscilloscope would have to be able to handle negative voltages - probably in the region of 25-30V - if it can't handle that, i wouldn't try measuring it in case you blow the working channel. The back EMF voltages on the coil (the negative ones you see) can get pretty high!

I don't think twisting wires is gonna be a good way for setting voltages....can't you pick up something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIP-8-Switch-PCB-Key-Switch-Piano-8-Circuits-Way-Printed-Board-Switch-DIL-8-/200653911218?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2eb7e7b4b2

I'd be happier if you had switches like that, less chance of shorts. And for wiring it, some 8 core telephone wire would be good, the solid core stuff, it makes it easier to solder without and stray "hairs" to short stuff.

As it is, you're going to have to find the correct pins on the chip, and connect wires to the chip pads, or the traces connected to them somewhere. I know you were concerned about your soldering, so do you think you're up to that task, before we start?

As for the chip taking time to start - basically it should be in the "off" state even when powered, as it has no VID settings yet (the chip will pull them all to 1), so we may not see voltages till you attach wires and switches to the VID pins. Now, you can do this just with wires if you want, but if you short them on summat, the potential to pop the chip could be high.

Basically, you will need to attach one wire to each VID pin (VID0 - VID4 and VID12.5) following from the diagram on page 2 of the datasheet. You should see a small dot on one corner of the chip, 4 of the connections are up in that corner of the chip. with the dot at the top lefl, the first pin on the top of the left side is VID12.5, you want one wire there. then on the top edge from the left to right you have VID0 VID1 VID2, you want one wire each on these three pads working from the left. VID4 and VID3 are on the right hand edge - working from the top of that edge they are the third and fourth pin down, again you want one wire each there. then you'll need a couple of wires tied to ground somewhere to connect them to. Don't tie them all to ground at once, that puts out the maximum voltage, and we've not figured out if the chip is setup with an offset yet - it may put voltages out higher than what it says in the table.

I hope thats enough for you to start. biggrin.gif

I'm just gonna twist wires (and have tape on them when not in use).

I do not know if I can solder directly onto the chip (probably not), I'll try to find resistors or caps connected to them first.

Are all of those wires nessary if i only want to go between 1.2 and 1.6v? can i leave some out?

EDIT: no i just can't solder these, I can't.

I managed to get something on a cap that leads to the VID12.5 and here's what I'm wondering, Didn't nvidia use these to program the voltage? If they did can we just set this VID12.5 pin to use the same scheme as what nvidia used?
Edited by EpicAMDGamer - 5/9/13 at 1:44pm
     
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post #43 of 68
Thats exactly what we're trying to do - NVIDIA will have all the VID's connected to the GPU, which will have a register to set the voltage - thus being able to mod it in the Video BIOS. It'll just be hardwired in cards that don't have software control over the voltage. But All the VID pins are involved in setting the voltage, not just the VID12.5 (plus, are you sure it was a cap connected to it, if anything it should have been a resistor? Caps are marked with labels Cxxx (x being the cap number on the board, not the value) resistors marked Rxxx , inductors are usually Lxxx , diodes Dxxx , transistors/FETS Qxxx, IC's Uxxx. umm thats all I can think of just now, but each type of component usually has a standard lettering system to help identify what it is. usually if you hint hard enough, you find C101, C102,C103 etc etc, same for Resistors R101 R102 R103 yadda yadda, you get the idea. smile.gif

this particular PWM uses a digital format, its not like the newer card where it's various resistances to set the bits for the voltage.

Have you tries to track the circuit traces from each pin to see where they go? Sometimes you can find small connections (called VIA's) that connect through the board, they just look look small holes in the board. If theres any of these on the circuit of interest, you may be able to solder in to these if the access is easier.

and i'm thinking you need a smaller soldering iron! biggrin.gif

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V1-20W-220V-Electric-Welding-Pencil-Tip-Soldering-Iron-Tool-Phone-Repairing-Tool-/221202047534?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3380ab622e

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-15-watt-mains-power-Small-Medium-Wires-Freepost-to-UK-/390582935820?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5af08ea10c
post #44 of 68
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by latelesley View Post

Thats exactly what we're trying to do - NVIDIA will have all the VID's connected to the GPU, which will have a register to set the voltage - thus being able to mod it in the Video BIOS. It'll just be hardwired in cards that don't have software control over the voltage. But All the VID pins are involved in setting the voltage, not just the VID12.5 (plus, are you sure it was a cap connected to it, if anything it should have been a resistor? Caps are marked with labels Cxxx (x being the cap number on the board, not the value) resistors marked Rxxx , inductors are usually Lxxx , diodes Dxxx , transistors/FETS Qxxx, IC's Uxxx. umm thats all I can think of just now, but each type of component usually has a standard lettering system to help identify what it is. usually if you hint hard enough, you find C101, C102,C103 etc etc, same for Resistors R101 R102 R103 yadda yadda, you get the idea. smile.gif

this particular PWM uses a digital format, its not like the newer card where it's various resistances to set the bits for the voltage.

Have you tries to track the circuit traces from each pin to see where they go? Sometimes you can find small connections (called VIA's) that connect through the board, they just look look small holes in the board. If theres any of these on the circuit of interest, you may be able to solder in to these if the access is easier.

and i'm thinking you need a smaller soldering iron! biggrin.gif

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V1-20W-220V-Electric-Welding-Pencil-Tip-Soldering-Iron-Tool-Phone-Repairing-Tool-/221202047534?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3380ab622e

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-15-watt-mains-power-Small-Medium-Wires-Freepost-to-UK-/390582935820?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5af08ea10c

not sure if it was a cap or resistor or what, looks like a cap to me but it has no label because there's lots of SMC stuff around it (its right next to the pwm chip).

Ah this is actually very good news to see that I can solder in these VIA's, I guess I just scratch off some of the coating on them and slap on some solder.

That was actually the whole problem, most of the pins had resistors or caps i could solder to but some pins went to the little holes or VIA's, but now Maybe I can do this.

And yep when I get some extra money I'll be purchasing a much better soldering iron or at least a much smaller tip.
     
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post #45 of 68
well, as a quick fix, you could file down your exisiting one if you have a file. just do it with the iron off, and tin it while its heating up once you're done. smile.gif
post #46 of 68
Thread Starter 
So just as a test, I removed the two big black chokes/inductor things on the GPU side of the 8800gts. I removed the two that are connected to the phases YOU guys said are dead.

Well you must be wrong because with those removed and the one you said works remaining, no post, no core voltage.
     
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post #47 of 68

if the phases are in series and not parallel .. then you just disconnected power input from the only working phase...

post #48 of 68
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CL3P20 View Post

if the phases are in series and not parallel .. then you just disconnected power input from the only working phase...

Looks like parallel to me though.

How can I test it?
     
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post #49 of 68
They ARE in parallel - remember we worked out it was only one dead phase (I think it was the top one?) Put the two chokes back on, and take off the other one, and see if it fires up. smile.gif

PS Can you put up a better pic of the VRM, so i can point out what component is what? smile.gif
Edited by latelesley - 5/15/13 at 5:58pm
post #50 of 68
Thread Starter 
Thought so.

This is the best pic of the backside of the PCB that I have.

I cannot get a nice pic of the gpu side of the PCB, sorry.
     
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