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Acrylic pipebending 101 - Page 253

post #2521 of 4306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

What's the best way to cut (thick 1/2x3/4) acrylic tube? Looks like the forming rod was delivered early today so I wanna start some testing tonight smile.gif. Didn't like how my mini hacksaw cut throw 3/8x1/2 acrylic on my first go at acrylic (last year). Want to minimize sanding as much as possible with a clean cut. Thanks smile.gif
I use a high tpi hacksaw,the caveat is that the blade needs to be new,don't use one that has cut metal before.

I tend to cut 3/4 thru then snap it,dress the end and you are set.
You can try the score and snap method,it works for sheet acrylic but I will be honest...everytime I have done it it has drawn blood.
A mitre box is invaluable.
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post #2522 of 4306
Jigsaw goes a bit too fast and melts it a bit w/ an 18 tpi metal blade. I did a quick and dirty cut and it came out decent. The melted bits break off w/ a bit of force. Still going to practice or look for better options.

As far as bending, I used a tin of cookies that holds my precision screw drivers. Its ~3"and I think this is probably ideal for 3/4" od acrylic. I tried bending it freehand and it collapsed a bit. I was still able to pull out the silicone rod and the inner cavity has caved too much. It should still allow flow but it does have a bit of a flat spot which makes it look awkward. I need to make a small jig to figure out what's the best bending radius to avoid flat or wrinkled bits. It does take longer to heat up obviously but wrinkling is very minimal compared to 3/8x1/2:





post #2523 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Jigsaw goes a bit too fast and melts it a bit w/ an 18 tpi metal blade. I did a quick and dirty cut and it came out decent. The melted bits break off w/ a bit of force. Still going to practice or look for better options.

As far as bending, I used a tin of cookies that holds my precision screw drivers. Its ~3"and I think this is probably ideal for 3/4" od acrylic. I tried bending it freehand and it collapsed a bit. I was still able to pull out the silicone rod and the inner cavity has caved too much. It should still allow flow but it does have a bit of a flat spot which makes it look awkward. I need to make a small jig to figure out what's the best bending radius to avoid flat or wrinkled bits. It does take longer to heat up obviously but wrinkling is very minimal compared to 3/8x1/2:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





look great though, im going attempt this too.. once it heats up is their any resistance when bending?
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post #2524 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaican voodoo View Post

look great though, im going attempt this too.. once it heats up is their any resistance when bending?


Not really. Initially it wants to return back to its original shape but that's because it needs more heat. You do have to hold it in place as cooling (obviously) is slower. I think because of the thicker walls, once heated properly, its very malleable, unlike 3/8x1/2 which feels like it could collapse or break off easier.


One issue I'm still not sure how to clear is to tap the tube if its already bent. I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of angled fittings/adapters. Its ideal to bend first to get the final shape then tap. I don't want to tap and have it come up short. I may just have to measure a few times to figure out how much tube I need. Also, I don't have a wrench large enough for this G1/4 tap. I bought a 1/2" tap wrench at Homes and it was slightly too small. Won't fit in my Bostitch 18v drill as well frown.gif. I may go w/ just a few simple bends and not end up w/ a long runs of piped work with bends. This way I can easily tap the tube.


Got an idea. Homes has super stiff Watts 1/2x3/4 plastic tube. Maybe buy some to use as a template for each tube run. This might allow me to calculate exactly the length of tube I need for each run. Tap it and then bend it. Its only ~$7 for a roll of 10' and I know first hand how stiff this tube is. Basically, using it as a mock up model to avoid using all the acrylic tube.


Going with Alphacool m-to-m rotary fittings and m-to-m 90° adapters (where needed).
Edited by wermad - 4/10/14 at 4:39pm
post #2525 of 4306
yea that a great idea ...it will prevent you from wasting all the a acrylic for difficult bends....i was thinking you could use vice grip to hold the tap? no. also if you can get some straight runs with 90'digree bends that will simplify things too... i like big the tubing is i'm quite excited to working with it...plus with that size tubing the coolants shows up more richer thumb.gif
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post #2526 of 4306
If I can use the stiff Watts tube to calculate how long each tube needs to be, then i can pre tap the tubes (using the vise) and then bend. If it doesn't work, I'll need a large tap wrench to tap the tube after bending.

edit:


Edited by wermad - 4/10/14 at 4:56pm
post #2527 of 4306
that 90'd bend looking mighty good wermad thumb.gif....i cant wait to see coolant in it, i bet you it's gonna change everyone's mind about the size wink.gif
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post #2528 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaican voodoo View Post

that 90'd bend looking mighty good wermad thumb.gif....i cant wait to see coolant in it, i bet you it's gonna change everyone's mind about the size wink.gif

I'm calling it "hard-phatty" acrylic tube biggrin.giftongue.giflachen.gif.
post #2529 of 4306
BHAhahaahaha i most choke on my food lol lachen.gif that name!!!
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post #2530 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Not really. Initially it wants to return back to its original shape but that's because it needs more heat. You do have to hold it in place as cooling (obviously) is slower. I think because of the thicker walls, once heated properly, its very malleable, unlike 3/8x1/2 which feels like it could collapse or break off easier.


One issue I'm still not sure how to clear is to tap the tube if its already bent. I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of angled fittings/adapters. Its ideal to bend first to get the final shape then tap. I don't want to tap and have it come up short. I may just have to measure a few times to figure out how much tube I need. Also, I don't have a wrench large enough for this G1/4 tap. I bought a 1/2" tap wrench at Homes and it was slightly too small. Won't fit in my Bostitch 18v drill as well frown.gif. I may go w/ just a few simple bends and not end up w/ a long runs of piped work with bends. This way I can easily tap the tube.


Got an idea. Homes has super stiff Watts 1/2x3/4 plastic tube. Maybe buy some to use as a template for each tube run. This might allow me to calculate exactly the length of tube I need for each run. Tap it and then bend it. Its only ~$7 for a roll of 10' and I know first hand how stiff this tube is. Basically, using it as a mock up model to avoid using all the acrylic tube.


Going with Alphacool m-to-m rotary fittings and m-to-m 90° adapters (where needed).

If you see our video again, when it comes to tapping you just need some pliers to hold the tap in place, and just turn the tubing. if you have a vise grip use that.

This stuff bends really nice (easier to get a clean bend). Also if you have already tapped, you can still bend, no issues there. When tapping you dont need more than 4 rings as your average fitting only has like 3 rings.

Also the alphacool ones did NOT work for us as the threads on those are not wide enough. So test it out before using.

here are some close up shots of the threads and how much are used
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





I know that the fitting from following manufacturers work:

- XSPC
- Bitspower
- Enzotech
- Monsoon
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaican voodoo View Post

that 90'd bend looking mighty good wermad thumb.gif....i cant wait to see coolant in it, i bet you it's gonna change everyone's mind about the size wink.gif

Here you go:
This shot was taken about a month ago when I was first leak testing the idea.


Edited by jassilamba - 4/10/14 at 8:29pm
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