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Acrylic pipebending 101 - Page 254

post #2531 of 4306
wow!! clooant looks so much more full, in the hard fatty!! wermad!! biggrin.gif
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post #2532 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

If you see our video again, when it comes to tapping you just need some pliers to hold the tap in place, and just turn the tubing. if you have a vise grip use that.

This stuff bends really nice (easier to get a clean bend). Also if you have already tapped, you can still bend, no issues there. When tapping you dont need more than 4 rings as your average fitting only has like 3 rings.

Also the alphacool ones did NOT work for us as the threads on those are not wide enough. So test it out before using.

here are some close up shots of the threads and how much are used
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





I know that the fitting from following manufacturers work:

- XSPC
- Bitspower
- Enzotech
- Monsoon
Here you go:
This shot was taken about a month ago when I was first leak testing the idea.


Thanks smile.gif. I have a few Alpha cool fittings/adapters I'll try. XSPC fittings seem out of stock everywhere. The Enzotechs seem a tad bit too small and I may not be able to tighten it properly (especially my complex mb area). I'll look into the others you've listed.


My concern is taping after bending since you may not know how much tube you'll need. I thought up the idea to get some stiff plastic tube in the same size and use that to mock up the runs. I can then get an aproximation of how much acrylic tube I'll need for the run. Tap it and then start bending it. This way I can use the vise method rather then buying a $50 tap wrench that will fit the tap doing manually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaican voodoo View Post

wow!! clooant looks so much more full, in the hard phatty!! wermad!! biggrin.gif

ftfy smile.gif
Edited by wermad - 4/10/14 at 8:43pm
post #2533 of 4306
Wow, the tolerances are extremely small. I tested a few different fittings and only few actually grabbed the threads.

Passed:
-XSPC m-to-m
-Phobya rotary m-to-m extension
-Old EK long thread hex plug

Failed:
-Alphacool m-to-m
-Alphacool 90° adapter
-Alphacool dual rotary angled adaterr
-Ek 1/2" barb
-EK oem (gpu and cpu blocks) plug
-Phobya 20mm extension
-Phobya 50mm extension
-Koolance sli link


I had no idea threads were milled with slight differences. When you think about it, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm and the bit to tap G1/4 is ~11.8mm. Almost a whole mm in difference. That's why there's little tolerance. Wow, still thinking on this one.

If the phobya m-to-m worked but all the Phobya extensions (~8 of them) failed, so this is up in the there. With the right fittings, this should work but this subtle difference makes me nervous that I may just pass on this one frown.gif. Might just go copper tube painted black and some revolvers.

thanks for the help Jassilamba and JamaicanReaper thumb.gif
post #2534 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Wow, the tolerances are extremely small. I tested a few different fittings and only few actually grabbed the threads.

Passed:
-XSPC m-to-m
-Phobya rotary m-to-m extension
-Old EK long thread hex plug

Failed:
-Alphacool m-to-m
-Alphacool 90° adapter
-Alphacool dual rotary angled adaterr
-Ek 1/2" barb
-EK oem (gpu and cpu blocks) plug
-Phobya 20mm extension
-Phobya 50mm extension
-Koolance sli link


I had no idea threads were milled with slight differences. When you think about it, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm and the bit to tap G1/4 is ~11.8mm. Almost a whole mm in difference. That's why there's little tolerance. Wow, still thinking on this one.

If the phobya m-to-m worked but all the Phobya extensions (~8 of them) failed, so this is up in the there. With the right fittings, this should work but this subtle difference makes me nervous that I may just pass on this one frown.gif. Might just go copper tube painted black and some revolvers.

thanks for the help Jassilamba and JamaicanReaper thumb.gif

Hence we recommended this with caution. you could always look at the new Monsoon compression fittings for acrylic (they are smaller in size compared to the revolvers), and you can have those in 5/8 X 1/2 so your ID is still the same.

I think this might just work better with 7/16 X 5/8 tubing.
post #2535 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Hence we recommended this with caution. you could always look at the new Monsoon compression fittings for acrylic (they are smaller in size compared to the revolvers), and you can have those in 5/8 X 1/2 so your ID is still the same.

I think this might just work better with 7/16 X 5/8 tubing.

Eplastics has 3/8x5/8, if you can bore this out w/ the 11.8mm bit, this might work. Though I'm not sure how well the acrylic will hold up to the bit. Well, going to return the other three tubes. May pick up a 3/8x5/8 test this theory. This also has the same wall thickness and I can run the Monsoon fitting thinking.gif
post #2536 of 4306
my2adu3e.jpg

And that's how that looks. Only trick with that is getting it to look clean.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
post #2537 of 4306
Thread Starter 
Fast fate has already made a complete loop from threaded acrylic,you can buy the lengths pre threaded in 5mm increment lengths,you will have to go back the the thread to find the link tho.
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post #2538 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamaican voodoo View Post

look great though, im going attempt this too.. once it heats up is their any resistance when bending?


Not really. Initially it wants to return back to its original shape but that's because it needs more heat. You do have to hold it in place as cooling (obviously) is slower. I think because of the thicker walls, once heated properly, its very malleable, unlike 3/8x1/2 which feels like it could collapse or break off easier.


One issue I'm still not sure how to clear is to tap the tube if its already bent. I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of angled fittings/adapters. Its ideal to bend first to get the final shape then tap. I don't want to tap and have it come up short. I may just have to measure a few times to figure out how much tube I need. Also, I don't have a wrench large enough for this G1/4 tap. I bought a 1/2" tap wrench at Homes and it was slightly too small. Won't fit in my Bostitch 18v drill as well frown.gif. I may go w/ just a few simple bends and not end up w/ a long runs of piped work with bends. This way I can easily tap the tube.


Got an idea. Homes has super stiff Watts 1/2x3/4 plastic tube. Maybe buy some to use as a template for each tube run. This might allow me to calculate exactly the length of tube I need for each run. Tap it and then bend it. Its only ~$7 for a roll of 10' and I know first hand how stiff this tube is. Basically, using it as a mock up model to avoid using all the acrylic tube.


Going with Alphacool m-to-m rotary fittings and m-to-m 90° adapters (where needed).


You'll probably end up regretting that choice . . . . .biggrin.gif

The only way to bore out acrylic tube and have it look decent, is on a lathe with a boring tool or reamer, not a drill bit.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 4/11/14 at 2:10am
post #2539 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

my2adu3e.jpg

And that's how that looks. Only trick with that is getting it to look clean.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I'll keep that mind and thanks for all your help. I did watch a monsoon hardline vid w/ the 30lb weight. Just to see how the xspc held on the acrylic tube, one good tug, and it came off. That's the nail in the coffin for me on this route tongue.gif.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Wow, the tolerances are extremely small. I tested a few different fittings and only few actually grabbed the threads.

Passed:
-XSPC m-to-m
-Phobya rotary m-to-m extension
-Old EK long thread hex plug

Failed:
-Alphacool m-to-m
-Alphacool 90° adapter
-Alphacool dual rotary angled adaterr
-Ek 1/2" barb
-EK oem (gpu and cpu blocks) plug
-Phobya 20mm extension
-Phobya 50mm extension
-Koolance sli link


I had no idea threads were milled with slight differences. When you think about it, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm and the bit to tap G1/4 is ~11.8mm. Almost a whole mm in difference. That's why there's little tolerance. Wow, still thinking on this one.

If the phobya m-to-m worked but all the Phobya extensions (~8 of them) failed, so this is up in the there. With the right fittings, this should work but this subtle difference makes me nervous that I may just pass on this one frown.gif. Might just go copper tube painted black and some revolvers.

thanks for the help Jassilamba and JamaicanReaper thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

You'll probably end up regretting that choice . . . . .biggrin.gif


Darlene

smile.gif
Edited by wermad - 4/11/14 at 2:14am
post #2540 of 4306
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

Fast fate has already made a complete loop from threaded acrylic,you can buy the lengths pre threaded in 5mm increment lengths,you will have to go back the the thread to find the link tho.

This is true, but I used the already threaded lengths.(I did start another loop in my SM8 but project changed direction and now took parts out of it for another build) Abandoned SM8 Threaded Acrylic Loop (Click to show)
The loop pictured below has been running now like this for a couple of months I guess (except now the coolant is lemon yellow with the magic green mist through it)
Went for a hard industrial look using fittings and straight acrylic lengths so.....
I neither bent any or threaded any - BUT I'll certainly be trying my hand with this at some stage as I like the look of the threaded acrylic.

EDIT - Just measured the acrylic tube I have that is pre-threaded....
OD = 17.5mm (converted = 11/16)
ID = 10.5mm (converted = 13/32)
leaving wall thickness of 3.5mm (converted = 9/64)

Werm and others considering this option please consider the following very carefully.
You will have to be extremely accurate with your bends and cuts with this method guys !!
If not virtually perfect the acrylic will always crack at the thread - ALWAYS - maybe not on the first day or even first week, but it will crack, it's happened to me.
Cutting the threads creates two weak points on the tube, and if the tube is forced to flex even a little, eventually the thread will crack.
You must use a rotary fitting on at least one end to fit the tube length, and must screw together nicely without needing to use any manipulation / force.


Edited by fast_fate - 4/11/14 at 6:34am
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