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First watercooling setup, need advice - Page 4

post #31 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

I love my UT60 240, but I went with it because in the bottom, there is room for it with push-pull fans AND shrouds AND decoupling gaskets...

I would go with the XT45 420 if you are going with Alphacool, as Push-Pull with Thin or Medium-Thickness Radiator is always better than just-push/just-pull on a thicker radiator from the same family. Push-Pull is ALWAYS worth it, I promise; some people will say "meh it's stupid don't bother" or whatever, but these same people can go back to their $500 water cooling setups that can't do better than a dT of 10C rolleyes.gif

The XT45 + 6x 140x25mm fans WILL FIT in Push-Pull WITHOUT ISSUE; the same is not necessarily true for the UT60.



The difference between doing it yourself and starting with a kit (I have always done "doing it yourself", never used a kit) is primarily price. The XSPC Raystorm D5 EX420 Kit is literally everything you need for a CPU Loop. Add ~$150 for GPU Block + Backplate, $15 for another pair of compression fittings, and $10 for a 3.5gram tube of Prolimatech PK1 or PK3 (the best thermal paste for water cooling, bar none, in my experience; extremely worth it, and so far I've gotten 28 applications out of my 5g tube of PK1 and I still have at least 80% left! You just need to know that you use a dot the size of a BB, not a pea! Pea is too big! Grain of rice is too big!), if you want to add the GPU. So, I'm guessing around $450 total?

Going the "full custom" route will cost more, but you pick every component yourself. That means you can go for the angled rotary/multiple-rotary adapters/fittings from Bitspower, use whatever kind of tubing you want (I HIGHLY recommend Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT in 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD), go with whatever type of blocks you want: Heatkiller is the absolute best for GPU, with Aquacomputer a very close second; everything else is simply not as good (Others will dispute this statement, but I've used blocks from all current manufacturers, and Heatkiller/Aquacomputer are the only ones that are just perfect; hell, my Heatkiller GPUx3 680 Hole Edition block weighs more than the EK FC-7970LTG Block despite the dimensions being smaller, because the HK Block is ONE SOLID PIECE OF COPPER while the EK is a bunch of stuff thrown atop a very skinny copper base; oh, and EK Blocks have killed two 7970 Lightnings for me!), for CPU the choice comes down to the XSPC Raystorm (high flow, low restriction; long-time top-place LGA1155 block; don't get the all-copper one, as it doesn't work quite as well; you want all-copper GPU, not CPU), the Koolance CPU-380I (moderate-restriction/moderate-flow block; apparently has beaten the Raystorm for the LGA1155 Best Block title, but the extremely fine micro-channels in the block worry me about the nickel flaking and debris getting caught, reducing cooling ability substantially), and the Swiftech Apogee HD (the BEST LGA2011 block, a moderately-high restriction impingement-type block with moderate flow, it has a larger and flatter cold-plate than any other block making it immensely better for the humongous X79 chips than the Raystorm or its ilk; the Apogee HD also has 2 extra ports in case you want to run something in parallel, for example: pump to CPU block then splits with primary exit going to GPU, and then exit 3 going to MB VRM/SB and exit 4 going to RAM blocks; however, that's not as important as its one feature that nothing else can even come ANYWHERE close to: mounting mechanism! It's the absolute best mounting design I've ever seen on a cooler, air or water, period! the mounts are insanely consistent, and it's impossible to apply anything more than the perfect amount of mounting pressure!).

I'd create an Excel spreadsheet, and figure out the costs of each route.

For retailers, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND:
- Performance PC's (coupon codes for 5.5-7% off available)
- Jab-Tech (5% off if you use "Facebook" coupon)
- Sidewinder Computers

AVOID:
- FrozenCPU (ridiculously overpriced!)

Have to disagree about frozencpu. I always use them first especially because of the 5.1% OCN discount code. Have bought hundreds from them and they've always treated me good.
post #32 of 46
performance pcs has an ocn discount as well. "ocn5" i think is the discount code.

O.P. Very good build list. I have a couple mcw universal blolcks if your interested.
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Wet Willy
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Oold man 555
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post #33 of 46
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip, but someone earlier alerted me to their Mother's day special. "MOTHER13-8" for 8% off; good deal.

Definitely interested in your MCW blocks, as I might be water cooling more gpus in the future.
post #34 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asustweaker View Post

performance pcs has an ocn discount as well. "ocn5" i think is the discount code.

O.P. Very good build list. I have a couple mcw universal blolcks if your interested.

It's OCN55. PhillyD has our thanks thumb.gif
   
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post #35 of 46
Thread Starter 
Not sure what to take pictures of, but here's the whole computer undergoing leak testing:


Been testing for almost an hour now; so far so good, minus me spilling a bit of water trying to pour into my funnel, and then pouring too much water and overflowing the reservoir.

Some questions:
1. The MCP655 does not take in any barbs or compression fittings. I did manage to squeeze the tubing over it though, despite the tubing being smaller than the MCP655's thread size. Do/should I need clamps on this just in case?

2. The MCW60 comes with two clamps to use, but I guess it wasn't expecting 1/2 x 3/4 tubing, and the second clamp won't fit. Should I be worried and try to buy a thinner clamp? Specifically the clamp doesn't fit in between the block and the tubing. Not sure how I made the first one fit, but the second clamp won't budge.

3. I left the stock heatsink on my 7950. I figure I wouldn't need to use my Swiftech heatsink since the stock one already covers all the VRMs. I don't have any direct airflow over the heatsink, however, except the PSU fan, if that counts. Would I be okay?

4. The reservoir can't move outside its two clamps, but it can still slide up and down. Should I be worried? Do I need something under it to keep it from sliding down?

Thanks to everyone who helped btw thumb.gif
My computer has never been quieter smile.gif

edit:
5. How exactly should the leak testing go? Can I leave it overnight and then see what has happened? Or should I leak test during the day and check every so often? (if so, how often should I check?)

6. Should I wait until I get the clamps to finish the leak testing?
Edited by MingoDynasty - 5/26/13 at 11:02pm
post #36 of 46
Thread Starter 
bump

1,2,6. I ended up getting steel clamps for the MCP655 and MCW60. Seems to be pretty tight now. Previously there was a leak on the MCW60 D:

5. I left the loop running for almost 24 hours now, with some random on/off and case shaking to help rid of air and bubbles. No leaks, so it must be good to go biggrin.gif ?

Any answers on 3,4? Especially the reservoir; if I move my case around or anything, should I be worried about the reservoir slipping outside of the two clamps?
post #37 of 46
1. You should always clamp barbs: even if they're tight enough to stay at the beginning, time is not kind to stretched tubing.

2. see #1

3. It's not necessary to water cool your GPU, but that is the one thing that causes a water cooled system to be significantly quieter while gaming than an air-cooled one.

4. If it doesn't interfere with anything or cause any tubing to kink than it's not an issue, but you could probably use some small rubber strips on the brackets if it bothers you.

5. If it leaks, it leaks, if not you should be fine.

6. Not necessary, but clamps are always a good idea.
post #38 of 46
Is their a way to tighten the clamps that came with the reservoir? Does it slide up and down easily? If the reservoir just settles between the clamps and doesn't feel to loose, then it should be fine. If you want some extra security, you could maybe add velcro to the clamps.

When it comes to leak testing, I only left my PC running for about 10-15 minutes. Just make sure all your tubes are connected tightly, and that your temps are normal, and you should be fine. If their are any bubbles in the system after your 24hr leak test ya did, don't worry about it. They'll eventually get spread out and disappear through the loop.
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post #39 of 46
Thread Starter 
The clamps with the reservoir are already tightened all the way. Any more and I'm afraid of breaking the acrylic.

If I don't touch it, it stays as is. But I can easily push it up and down. With that kind of ease, I'm worried that moving the case around could make the reservoir fall down due to gravity. During bleeding, when I was shaking the case, the reservoir easily slid down.
post #40 of 46
Hmm, I don't know if this'll work for your situation (depending on the clamp you use), but try twising one of the clamps in the opposite direction so that each "closing point" of the clamp has a grip on the tube reservoir. Ie: Left and Right side of the tube. Hope this makes sense.
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