Well - bezels are pretty thick considering the size of the panel all right. The thinner ones are 6 mm (including approx 2 mm no-display area) at the sides (in landscape), but bottom and top ones ... well ... they are thick no other way to put it. However, the panels are incredibly thin, just few mm, so it might be possible to overlap them slightly to get the bezels down a bit - with the panels so thin it might be possible to avoid the broken horizontal lines which makes staggered eyefinity setup (bezels behind other bezels) a bad idea.
Also the stuff is substantially smaller than I assumed it to be at first glance as that ppi is indeed pretty damn high. It's sort of usable still at ~20 cm ofc, just small. However, with GPU scaling enabled lower resolutions are no problem on that screen at first glance. At first try I did not get it to work at anything other than 60 Hz, it reports itself properly through EDID as 2048x1536 @ 60 Hz it's just that I did not manage other resolutions I added to the registry to turn up - did not have much time to play around with it today so after trying for ~5 minutes gave up for today and will look more into it sometime later.
1/125 sec exposure
1/250 Ipad 4
1/250 DELL U2311H
It seems to be using not quite as aggressive overdriving as DELL but still detectable with short enough exposure times on a DSLR. Overall it feels pretty smooth and certainly not worse than the DELL's I have as far as ghosting/blurring goes (when wiggling around mouse pointer on the screen).
Hardware wise - don't be too harsh on screen quality - it has still the protective foil on
On abuse mark board the ribbon cable connector seems ta first glance a bit awkward, but it might be just that I have the PCB atm facing "the wrong way" and perhaps its a bit better when I get to put the PCB behind the screen somehow more firmly.
Had some trouble figuring out how the "latch" works on the connector, fortunately all guides i looked at did mention that there is some kind latch which must be opened and closed
Took couple of restarts for the screen to run up properly in windows. I seem to be able to run the screen atm only at 50% brightness - probably USB port cant provide enough juice for 100% brightness as it would be outside the spec. Will have to try thicker USB cable later. I know that my USB ports are actually capable providing up to approx 1 amp sometimes.Edited by Carniflex - 7/24/13 at 2:05pm