Originally Posted by z7x
I am aware of that, hence I didn't provide any link to it. Shape wise you know what I mean
What is the size of this copper plate and where can I get something like this from? Including the gasket?
Ryan, I found this:
2" x 2" x 1/2" thick. Would I need to do some work with the copper or will plexiglass routing do?
Not sure if any rotary tool will be able to do anything with these copper blocks. I'm not certain how tough the copper is for rotary tools. Any ideas?
I got my peltiers today, I tried them on 3.6V battery and they already work great. I could get four of those copper blocks (50x50x12mm) with plexiglass covers. Unfortunately other than those Alphacool RAM coolers I can't find anything else similar. The above blocks are only 50x50mm and I would need four of them.
To cool the two peltiers I'd like to try cooling it down with my existing radiators first.
Or maybe 4 those? 40x40x10mm. 80x40x10 are available, but they are aluminium.
I am also considering heat pipe sinks to cool the hot side as I have a feeling that the radiator will get hot too. The radiator is in contact with the case and at the moment the entire case gets a temperature. So fans are now circulating the hot air not cooling the radiators enough. Should I just get rid of them all together?
The main reason a modified flow CPU water block works is the copper base plate is only 3mm thick, which allows a quick transfer of the peltiers cold to the coolant.
A modified flow XSPC Rasa CPU water block is perfect for a 40mm x 40mm peltier size, and presently performance-pcs.com has them on sale for $44.95.
Raw peltier cold output temperature is what it is, but the more thickness of the copper transfer the more the cold transfer is affected because the cold has to go through the block.
The longer the cold stays stored in the 1/2" copper block the colder the peltier itself gets and it will stall, once the stalling starts happening your effectiveness is gone.
Additionally, for example only: IF
the raw peltier cold side reads -30c in 60 seconds after powered and you're using a 1/2" copper block would you even get a -30c transferred through the
copper block?, and how long would it take to get down to -30c if it did?
When cold is allowed to amass itself on the cold side of the peltier, it begins to affect the hot side lowering it's reached temperature that produced that cold, and when that happens the peltier stalls.
That's why no matter your end goals even if you are shooting for sub zero you have got to collect the cold output of the peltier as fast as possible and keep it being removed from the peltier or stall out the peltier.
My cooling works because I am not stalling the peltier and the peltier is constantly producing cold, the hot side is not overriding the cold side and vice versa.
A peltier will also stall if the hot side gets so hot it begins to affect the cold sides output, when that happens it stalls.
No matter your end goals if you cannot keep the peltier constantly outputting your needs it performs like a roller coaster and is not dependable.
Regarding my cooling setup the hot side is being cooled by a heat pipe air cooler and actually after going back and looking over all my records, I've been using peltier cooling successfully in this manner, for 1 year and 3 months.Edited by OCAddict - 10/22/13 at 4:09am