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To liquid cool my GPU, or not to liquid cool my GPU - Page 2

post #11 of 23
If you were to move to a pair of AP15 fans or similar I think the radiator would be able to handle it.
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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat View Post

If you were to move to a pair of AP15 fans or similar I think the radiator would be able to handle it.
Are they quiet?

I installed the waterblock on the 5870, then realized I had everything save for barbs. So I ordered some off of NCIX for the job. However they are the wrong size. From what it looks like, the waterblock is 3/8 inch, and the tubing is 1/2 ID. The barbs that I ordered at 3/8 at both side. (I just suck at measuring I guess)

So my plan was, just wrap both ends in teflon tape (obviously on the side with the threads) but also put a bunch on the side where the pipe goes, and stuff it in. (then double clamp)

How badly would that restrict flow for the whole loop? Is it something I should avoid? And spend another $15 on getting the correct piece? Or just roll with what I have?
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post #13 of 23
Get yourself a nice 3x120 radiator and you'll be good to go for CPU, chipset and single GPU with room to spare. A D5 helps too.
Edited by lowfiwhiteguy - 5/14/13 at 8:50am
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post #14 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fear of Oneself View Post

Are they quiet?

I installed the waterblock on the 5870, then realized I had everything save for barbs. So I ordered some off of NCIX for the job. However they are the wrong size. From what it looks like, the waterblock is 3/8 inch, and the tubing is 1/2 ID. The barbs that I ordered at 3/8 at both side. (I just suck at measuring I guess)

So my plan was, just wrap both ends in teflon tape (obviously on the side with the threads) but also put a bunch on the side where the pipe goes, and stuff it in. (then double clamp)

How badly would that restrict flow for the whole loop? Is it something I should avoid? And spend another $15 on getting the correct piece? Or just roll with what I have?

Tubing sizes have an almost negligible effect on flow restrictions. The blocks are primarily what cause restriction rather than the fittings and tubing, and even then it's nothing a quality pump can't live with. Unless you use soda straws.

So, if you're going to jury-rig the wrong size parts to fit what you have using teflon, you're going to leak much sooner rather than later. This is because your connection points settle into their positions, and heat up/cool down, and expand and contract constantly as you use your computer on a daily basis. So please, get the right pieces for the job. Doing it right at the start more than makes up for waking up one morning and finding your motherboard and gpu soaked for the sake of laziness and $15.
Edited by lowfiwhiteguy - 5/14/13 at 9:05am
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post #15 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfiwhiteguy View Post

If you do that you're going to leak much sooner rather than later. Get the right pieces for the job. Doing it right at the start more than makes up for waking up one morning and finding your motherboard and gpu soaked for the sake of laziness and $15.
Very true. I took a 5770 for a swim because my chipset started dripping. Nice green puddle on the back of the PCB in the middle of Grand Theft Auto. However I use deionized water in my loop, so it didn't affect it at all. Except it stained the white labels, they all have a green hue now.
It is awfully close, very disheartening I'm dying with just a laptop...sigh, you're right though. (NCIX ships fast, 24 hours and it was at my door) thumb.gif
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post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfiwhiteguy View Post

Tubing sizes have an almost negligible effect on flow restrictions. The blocks are primarily what cause restriction rather than the fittings and tubing, and even then it's nothing a quality pump can't live with. Unless you use soda straws.

So, if you're going to jury-rig the wrong size parts to fit what you have using teflon, you're going to leak much sooner rather than later. This is because your connection points settle into their positions, and heat up/cool down, and expand and contract constantly as you use your computer on a daily basis. So please, get the right pieces for the job. Doing it right at the start more than makes up for waking up one morning and finding your motherboard and gpu soaked for the sake of laziness and $15.

Those new parts just arrived, and after wrestling with some leaking issues. (The barbs I bought aren't made by swiftech, and they have very little thread compared to the barbs I previously bought) The new barbs are the right size, but it kept dripping slowly onto the TV tuner and the Power supply. (Good thing I use deionized water)

But there it is, it's been on for 3 hours, and the waterblock isn't even wet, I'm pretty pleased without how the system looks.
(Excuse the grainy picture, low light with a BlackBerry Z10)
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post #17 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fear of Oneself View Post

Those new parts just arrived, and after wrestling with some leaking issues. (The barbs I bought aren't made by swiftech, and they have very little thread compared to the barbs I previously bought) The new barbs are the right size, but it kept dripping slowly onto the TV tuner and the Power supply. (Good thing I use deionized water)

But there it is, it's been on for 3 hours, and the waterblock isn't even wet, I'm pretty pleased without how the system looks.
(Excuse the grainy picture, low light with a BlackBerry Z10)

The swiftech block should have came with plastic barbs made for that block. I use use the stock swiftech ones because they seem to fit the best on the GPU block TBH.


I have a MCW60 on my main (those are nice because they work with the 7970's without needing a shim like the newer ones do. Works great as my stock ref gtx470 heat plate wouldn't work with my mcw82 but fine with the mcw60, luckily my palit card works fine with the mcw82). Both have the same plastic barbs and work great.

I think the swiftech microres stock barbs might be the same as well, if you can't find your old ones.
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post #18 of 23
I'm really sorry I can't offer much barb advice. I've only ever used Bitspower compression fittings. If the leaks come back, maybe it's something you could consider for the leaky ones if you didn't want to go all-out with them. After 72 hours of leak-free operation usually it's a good indicator that your system is watertight for the time being at least.

Also: Maybe it's the just the photo, but the angle at which the tubing attaches to the waterblock looks pretty severe in that picture? Could you get a closeup?
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post #19 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfiwhiteguy View Post

I'm really sorry I can't offer much barb advice. I've only ever used Bitspower compression fittings. If the leaks come back, maybe it's something you could consider for the leaky ones if you didn't want to go all-out with them. After 72 hours of leak-free operation usually it's a good indicator that your system is watertight for the time being at least.

Also: Maybe it's the just the photo, but the angle at which the tubing attaches to the waterblock looks pretty severe in that picture? Could you get a closeup?

It connects at 0 degrees. Then gradually curves 90 degrees toward the res. It isn't kinked at all, just looks like that because that portion of the pipe is hiding behind that OCN sticker
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post #20 of 23
Thread Starter 
How necessary is it to cool the VRMs? A lot of cards don't have coolers on them stock, thinking back to my egg cooler 5770. I also don't have any idea what would fit on there to cool them
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