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Looking for some water cooling coolant, not sure what to buy?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I am ordering a H220 and I plan to drain it and flush it using distilled water. I'm not sure what coolant to use for the H220 when I fill it back up. I was looking at the Feser One Clear, however it does not state that it has any lubricating properties, so I have a feeling that the pump may run loud due to this.

Feser One : http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Feser-One-Non-Conductive-UV-Cooling-Fluid-for-Water-Cooling-1-Litre--Clear--UV-Blue-pid-3619.html

Any suggestions?
Thank you.
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post #2 of 11
Distilled water and PT nuke/Silver coil is all you need. Otherwise these (CLICK) aren't bad if you want to mix in dyes, you'd still have to add PT Nuke or a Silver Coil.

Despite what companies will tell you, distilled water with the proper additives is as good as it gets. In fact, a lot of pre-bottled coolants can create issues with blocks or tubing.

P.S. I use your driver delete method ever install thumb.gif
Edited by TheLawIX - 5/13/13 at 1:18pm
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLawIX View Post

Distilled water and PT nuke/Silver coil is all you need. Otherwise these (CLICK) aren't bad if you want to mix in dyes, you'd still have to add PT Nuke or a Silver Coil.

Despite what companies will tell you, distilled water with the proper additives is as good as it gets. In fact, a lot of pre-bottled coolants can create issues with blocks or tubing.

P.S. I use your driver delete method ever install thumb.gif

Hello, thanks for the input mate. The thing that puts me off is that distilled water obviously has no corroution and lubrication properties.
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post #4 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Hello, thanks for the input mate. The thing that puts me off is that distilled water obviously has no corroution and lubrication properties.

That's why you need PT Nuke or a Silver Coil and I always like to put a few drops of Dawn in. I don't have any problems with lubrication on my MCP655. The real issue with pumps isn't the noise they make but the vibration they create if not properly dampened (which is pretty much impossible if bolted to the case). That vibration will create a resonance throughout the case.
post #5 of 11
Pumps do not require lubrication to my knowledge. In my old main rig I had a D5 pump for 3yrs current and still counting as my brother owns it now.

That machine had fesser one pure in it the whole time. Never used anything else.
Although my current build I am working on will have just straight 100% pure distilled water, silver coil or similar and pt nuke or water wetter.

No oils or lubrication.
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post #6 of 11
I have not used a wide variety of coolants, but I can't see a reason why NOT to go with distilled water paired with Biocide / a killcoil. It's cheap, less problems with plasticizer, less clogging and it's non conductive, for a while at least.
Quote:
The thing that puts me off is that distilled water obviously has no corroution and lubrication properties.
Not sure why would you need for the coolant to have any lubricant properties? Not sure about the corrosion though, but I bet you wouldn't have any problems with corrosion as long as you don't put any aluminum in the loop.
post #7 of 11
If you're going with a dyed coolant, Mayhem's are known to not separate out, and are available in some wicked colors.

I myself just use distilled H2O with a silver kill coil.
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post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fulvin View Post

Not sure why would you need for the coolant to have any lubricant properties?

You shouldn't, unless you have a really crap pump. Computer water pumps, like the MCP-350, have no bearings or any sort of moving part contact, and thus no wear. I would hope the H220 would be the same.

Heck, even pumps with a moving seal, like jet well pumps, are designed to never need lubricated. Those may have wearing surfaces, though.
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post #9 of 11
The Laing DDC and D5 pumps certainly do have bearings of a sort and a contact point on the impeller. They have a carbon or graphite socket surface on the impeller that mates to a single ceramic ball on the central shaft. They are made of those materials because the water being pumped makes a very effective lubricant for them. You only have to look at the impeller of a hemispherical pump that has been run dry to see how fast they wear out and contact the pump wall with out lubrication.

The H220 pump is ceramic shaft bearing pump that from the looks of the inside has two contact points instead of the single point of the hemi pumps, or rather it could be the whole shaft is a bearing a bit like a sleeve bearing. I assume they use similar materials for the same reasons.
Water should be all the lubrication they need.
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post #10 of 11
The water doesn't act like a lubricant on the ceramic hemisphere- it acts as the bearing surface itself. The two halves don't touch in operation, but instead "Float" on a thin film of water.

That's why the pump can't be run dry. Regardless, lubricant on things that aren't designed for lubricant is seldom a good idea.
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