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Doubts about the effectiveness of my Noctua D14 - Page 5

post #41 of 54
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Answer to this question???
Quote:
wanted to know what is the maximum value of CPU VCore which can arrive a i3770k without the cpu is damaged.
post #42 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by flaubert View Post

Hi guys.....Sorry for off-topic....But wanted to know what is the maximum value of CPU VCore which can arrive a i3770k without the cpu is damaged.

Thanks....thumb.gif

If you are using a super-cooler e.g., NH-D14, Heligon HE01, K2, etc. you'll be limited to around ~1.3 V with a 3770K and ~1.35 V with a 3570K -- possibly more limited depending on temperatures.

I wouldn't recommend going past 1.3 V as I've noticed degradation occurs more rapidly. My 3570K at 1.356 V originally required 1.3 V for 24/7 stability and gradually required more voltage over the time span of a couple months.
post #43 of 54
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post #44 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruennis View Post

If you are using a super-cooler e.g., NH-D14, Heligon HE01, K2, etc. you'll be limited to around ~1.3 V with a 3770K and ~1.35 V with a 3570K -- possibly more limited depending on temperatures.

I wouldn't recommend going past 1.3 V as I've noticed degradation occurs more rapidly. My 3570K at 1.356 V originally required 1.3 V for 24/7 stability and gradually required more voltage over the time span of a couple months.

Thanks Bruennis.

Currently I have a Noctua NH-D14. My Frequency is set to 4600 MHz and CPU Vcore set to 1.28.
But I decided to change my Noctua and switch to liquid cooling: I bought a swiftech h220.
post #45 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by flaubert View Post

Thanks Bruennis.

Currently I have a Noctua NH-D14. My Frequency is set to 4600 MHz and CPU Vcore set to 1.28.
But I decided to change my Noctua and switch to liquid cooling: I bought a swiftech h220.
how good is it? noise and performance over NH D14 biggrin.gif
post #46 of 54
Thread Starter 
Ah ah ah....PontiacGTX...biggrin.gif
I'm still not arrived .... When it arrives I'll tell you ....thumb.gif
post #47 of 54
Thread Starter 
post #48 of 54
I would really suggest that you delid your chip. I know it's scary, but the hammer method is almost foolproof. You simply need a bench vise, a piece of 2x4, and a hammer.

Once the lid is off (oh, you should be wearing latex gloves), you clean up the factory TIM and black goop with at least 90% isopropyl alcohol and q-tips, beingsure to get everything especially the black glue. You have to do the same with the IHS.

Then, you simply put the bare chip back in the socket (case laying on its back so the MB is flat and parallel to the ground), apply a dot of PK1 or PK3 to the die about 1/2-1/4 the size of a BB, and then set the IHS on top in the proper orientation. Then you use the locking bar to lock the chip in, making sure that the IHS doesn't move much at all. Put a small line of time on the IHS above the die and going the same direction (about 1/2 the length of the IHS and very thin), and set the cooler on top ensuring that everything is properly aligned BEFORE making contact. Then you take the screws from two opposite corners and screw them in just 1 turn past catching the threads. Then the same for the other two corners. Go around clockwise (ie if you started with top left and Bottom right, and then did top right and bottom left, you'll go: BR+TL, BL+TR, ETC) making 1/2 turn before switching to the next pair. You want to always be doing the two at the same time to distribute pressure as equally as possible. Once they start to resist, you should drop to 1/4 turn before switching. This will give you the best possible chance of the TIM spreading properly and ideally, with no bubbles and allowing the excess in the center (where the most contact is made) to move outward though if you used the right amount of TIM you shouldn't see any. The proper amount of paste, properly applied, will leave a circular imprint when you remove the block, one whose outer diameter is just slightly smaller than the edges of the IHS (so a tiny gap between the edge of the IHS and the TIM in the center of each side, and large gaps in the corners).

Do it properly and with PK1 or PK3 and you will see anywhere from a 10C to 24C drop in temps. I just did one a week ago, exactly as I described above, and it was a fairly "golden" chip to begin with as it would hit 4.92Ghz @ 1.3425V 100pct stable before delidding. Temps would reach 84-90 in P95.
After delidding (PK1 was used), it would run 5Ghz @ 1.328v stable, and with the previous overclock of 4.92Ghz @ 1.3425V it was @ 59-71C in Prime!
Been able to do 5.3Ghz @ 1.3765v with temps around 69-82 and this is on water (Raystorm block with Aluminum hold down bracket, EX360 with P-P Cougar fans, UT60 240 P-P Cougar fans, and 680 Lightning with AC AquagraFX block). Ambient were 18.8-19.2C prior to delidding and 19.4-22.1C afterwards.


Point being...
Going with the H220 combined with delidding your chip could result in a 30C drop, potentially!
   
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
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post #49 of 54
Using one of those $20 liquid-metal pastes can drop your temps but i'm in the same boat as you...

1.21-1.24vcore

4.6ghz
3570k
d14
70f ambients~
post #50 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

I would really suggest that you delid your chip. I know it's scary, but the hammer method is almost foolproof. You simply need a bench vise, a piece of 2x4, and a hammer.

vid or it didn't happen biggrin.gif

that sounds really scary biggrin.gif
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