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3770k - Extreme temperature change within a few hours - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leevga View Post

Only the stock one which didn't seem to help anything.

Stock Cooler is gonna give you high temps even at idle, so no reason to test on that.

Screenshot temps are while using the H100i or the Intel stock cooler? and also did you notice an unusual "fingerprint" on the cpu or block after removing it that can indicate there was not full contact between the cpu and the water block? one more thing, the TIM that is applied to the H100i is way better than the AS5, so after switching don't expect to get the same temps like the ones you had when you first installed the H100i

I'm also curious why the cpu didn't throttle down when overheating (supposedly to do) to prevent damage.

To me sounds more like a block seating problem, you mentioned temps about 45C idle before the crash, which tells me that maybe you already had heating problems before the BSOD.
Do you remember your temps the first time you installed the H100i, were they high at idle? they should be around mid 20's to mid 30's idle with that cooler, I would suggest to uninstall the whole cooler, even the back plate to ensure is holding the block properly, apply some good thermal compound reset your BIOS everything to stock and when you tight the screws do it in an cross pattern to put pressure evenly.

Report back and good luck thumb.gif
    
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post #12 of 27
Thread Starter 
I tested with the stock cooler previously. It was reaching 90c+ at full load. I didn't let it get any higher.

As for the H100i, I re-fitted everything from radiator to back plate several times. I didn't notice anything on the surfaces other than what looks like a slight graze on the copper. Could that be the issue? It doesn't add up with the system suddenly overheating after months of good usage with no overheating problems.

I had no problems with temps before. Idling 40-45c is not too bad for 1.27V. Getting those temps at 1.1V is ludicrous though! Do you reckon this "graze" could be the issue? And by graze it's a slight discolouration, not like a gouge or anything.

I'm going to try inverting the rad to see if it's some trapped air. I really just want to know what's wrong. Weirdest issue I've ever had.
post #13 of 27
Thread Starter 
I tested with the stock cooler previously. It was reaching 90c+ at full load. I didn't let it get any higher.

As for the H100i, I re-fitted everything from radiator to back plate several times. I didn't notice anything on the surfaces other than what looks like a slight graze on the copper. Could that be the issue? It doesn't add up with the system suddenly overheating after months of good usage with no overheating problems.

I had no problems with temps before. Idling 40-45c is not too bad for 1.27V. Getting those temps at 1.1V is ludicrous though! Do you reckon this "graze" could be the issue? And by graze it's a slight discolouration, not like a gouge or anything.

I'm going to try inverting the rad to see if it's some trapped air. I really just want to know what's wrong. Weirdest issue I've ever had.
post #14 of 27
Thread Starter 
I tested with the stock cooler previously. It was reaching 90c+ at full load. I didn't let it get any higher.

As for the H100i, I re-fitted everything from radiator to back plate several times. I didn't notice anything on the surfaces other than what looks like a slight graze on the copper. Could that be the issue? It doesn't add up with the system suddenly overheating after months of good usage with no overheating problems.

I had no problems with temps before. Idling 40-45c is not too bad for 1.27V. Getting those temps at 1.1V is ludicrous though! Do you reckon this "graze" could be the issue? And by graze it's a slight discolouration, not like a gouge or anything.

I'm going to try inverting the rad to see if it's some trapped air. I really just want to know what's wrong. Weirdest issue I've ever had.
post #15 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leevga View Post

I tested with the stock cooler previously. It was reaching 90c+ at full load. I didn't let it get any higher.

As for the H100i, I re-fitted everything from radiator to back plate several times. I didn't notice anything on the surfaces other than what looks like a slight graze on the copper. Could that be the issue? It doesn't add up with the system suddenly overheating after months of good usage with no overheating problems.

I had no problems with temps before. Idling 40-45c is not too bad for 1.27V. Getting those temps at 1.1V is ludicrous though! Do you reckon this "graze" could be the issue? And by graze it's a slight discolouration, not like a gouge or anything.

I'm going to try inverting the rad to see if it's some trapped air. I really just want to know what's wrong. Weirdest issue I've ever had.

What I meant was, sometimes when the block doesn't make full contact with the cpu, after you remove it there is TIM still untouched, discoloration is normal after wiping the TIM, specially copper.

Your only option is isolate the problem part by part, first make sure the cooler works fine, If only you could test the cpu in another system
    
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post #16 of 27
It may sound silly but did you remove the protection film from the cpu block base? 40c idle is very high even for 1.3v+ imo.
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post #17 of 27
Thread Starter 
Yes. It's a plastic shell and have fitted more than one so I was aware of it. I should also mention that the cooler was fitted with the Corsair pre-applied TIM and was working fine before. I could only get to 4.5GHz at 1.267V stable. That seems pretty average besides the temps I had previously.

It feels like the CPU has a problem but it's impossible to tell. Both coolers are doing a poor job of cooling.
post #18 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leevga View Post

Yes. It's a plastic shell and have fitted more than one so I was aware of it. I should also mention that the cooler was fitted with the Corsair pre-applied TIM and was working fine before. I could only get to 4.5GHz at 1.267V stable. That seems pretty average besides the temps I had previously.

It feels like the CPU has a problem but it's impossible to tell. Both coolers are doing a poor job of cooling.

Know anyone with a 1155 board? You could try their chip in yours or vice versa..
You could try a a mediocre cooler if you can get your hands on one. :s
 
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post #19 of 27
Thread Starter 
I've been told to try clear the board by removing the battery for roughly 30 minutes and start again. Does this yield better or more consistant results than simply using the clear CMOS button?

I don't think it's the cause of the problem however, as my voltage readings are exactly as I put them manually with load line calibration on. I can't remember the other settings but I have the settings that allow increased/decreased voltage to the cpu off. If my voltage was fluctuating, I could understand increased temperatures, but they're not moving more than .05V.

Also, say it is somehow an air problem within the AIO, would it not be safe to assume the problem would arise again with the air still in the system? I'm not too savvy regarding liquid cooling systems, so I don't know how exactly it's supposed to function.
Edited by Leevga - 5/14/13 at 4:59am
post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leevga View Post

I've been told to try clear the board by removing the battery for roughly 30 minutes and start again. Does this yield better or more consistant results than simply using the clear CMOS button?

I don't think it's the cause of the problem however, as my voltage readings are exactly as I put them manually with load line calibration on. I can't remember the other settings but I have the settings that allow increased/decreased voltage to the cpu off. If my voltage was fluctuating, I could understand increased temperatures, but they're not moving more than .05V.

Also, say it is somehow an air problem within the AIO, would it not be safe to assume the problem would arise again with the air still in the system? I'm not too savvy regarding liquid cooling systems, so I don't know how exactly it's supposed to function.

As in there is air in a section of the cooler and it's blocking the flow or allowing for a reduced flow. Like in a full water loop there will be a bit of air in top of the res but the loop will still be able to pull 100% air around.
 
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