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is core temp wrong? - Page 3

post #21 of 33
I would check your H100 and make sure it has a good seat. You may not have enough thermal compound under there or air pockets D. That is, unless core temp doesn't like AMD CPUs rolleyes.gif
Edited by Lord Xeb - 5/18/13 at 1:09pm
 
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post #22 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by omari79 View Post

don't know mate :/ pretty sure i properly mount the HS, i am using a 212 hyper and 1.26v (LLC enabled) to get a "stable" 3.37Ghz

as far as i understand, i should always be 15-20C lower the TjMax right?

anyway, here is a screenshot of CoreTemp (edit: after a -10C offset)

i am using P95 for testing


Your fine. TjMax doesn't adjust when you change the offset. It will say 100C, but in fact, it is 90C with your adjustment. Your fine and dandy. Now push it higher! I needed around 1.48 for 3.717, though with your VID being lower than mine, you may be able to do 3.8 at the same voltage. You got a nice Q66 there.
Edited by Lord Xeb - 5/18/13 at 1:12pm
 
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post #23 of 33
Thread Starter 
how far should i push it? i need 1.32v for a stable 3.60Ghz but core temp can reach 75C (after changing the offset) under P95 stress testing!

Temperatures should've been better but my case isn't big enough for a 212 EVO, so i have it set up like this

*

Edit: i can barely close the side door with this cooler :/
Edited by omari79 - 5/18/13 at 1:51pm
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post #24 of 33
BTW, your cooler is on wrong. Tilt it 90 degrees to the right sot hat fan pulls from the front and pushs to the back. The rear fan will pick up the exhaust from the heat sink.

BTW, are you using the push pins or do you have a mounting kit? BTW, 75C is fine for that chip. I was pushing 85C on the thing. Those Q6600s are tanks and as long as you keep it below 80C your fine. With your UD3R you should be able to push at least 3.6GHz with 465FSB without any issues. 465x8 is what I ran as for a while. 3.6 is a good number for this chips.
The below settings will give you 3.6GHz with a 1860FSB
BTW, here is what i had for that:
MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)
Robust Graphics Booster ...............: [Auto]
CPU Clock Ratio ...........................:8
Fine CPU Clock Ratio.....................:
CPU Frequency .............................:3.6
Clock Chip Control
Standard Clock Control
CPU Host Clock Control..................: [Enabled]
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) ............: 465
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz) .........: 100
C.I.A.2 ...........................................:[Disabled]

DRAM Performance Control <- This gives you a 1:1 ratio with your ram
Performance Enhance...................: [Standard]
X.M.P………………………………………………..: Disabled
(G)MCH Frequency Latch...............: 400
System Memory Multiplier ..............:[2.00D]
Memory Frequency (Mhz) ...............:800 800
DRAM Timing Selectable ................: [Manual]
Standard Timing Control <- set this as needed for your ram
CAS Latency Time........................: 5
tRCD ......................................... 5
tRP'........................................... 5
tRAS.......................................... 18
Advanced Timing Control
? Haven;t changed anything in here
Driving Strength Profiles
Same here
Motherboard Voltage Control
Load Line Calibration........................[enabled]
Voltage Type.………... [manual
CPU
CPU Vcore….……….........................: < - set to the votlage you need
CPU Termination…..... ......................:1.32
CPU PLL………………….....................:1.59
CPU Reference.…………........................:0.760V [Auto]
MCH/ICH
MCH Core……………....1.36
MCH Reference….…….Auto
MCH/DRAM Ref.…...... auto
ICH I/O……………….....1.570V
ICH Core…………...……1.200V
DRAM
DRAM Voltage ……....2.2 (2.1 normal) < - set as needed
res is auto
 
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post #25 of 33
Thread Starter 
well this is what i was trying to tell you,

its impossible to title it 90 degrees cause it won't fit, so the only option left was to mount it like that or the opposite, i know that this mount produces more heat, 10C more!, i am also using a mounting kit

the only way for your suggestion to work is if i remove the copper screws



between the motherboard & the case, then mount the motherboard directly to the case, this will give me +1.5cm to work with but i don't know if it's ok to do that or if you have any other idea to solve this problem
Edited by omari79 - 5/18/13 at 4:43pm
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post #26 of 33
No way!
STANDOFFS are required to keep MB from shorting out.
Afraid you'll need a shorter cooler to orient it "correctly"
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post #27 of 33
What do you mean by mounting kit? The 1 that came with the 212 evo? You may want to take the rear fan off and put it up top if you can. That way you have a fan to help pull the air up from the cooler. Might help with the temps



Edit: Yeah you need the stand off's.
Edited by jeffro37 - 5/18/13 at 5:26pm
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post #28 of 33
You must have the stand offs and who cares if the side panel doesn't fit? I run without mine all the time.
 
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post #29 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

You must have the stand offs and who cares if the side panel doesn't fit? I run without mine all the time.
To speak nothing about add in cards that would not fit any more, mild to extreme sparking from MB and a need for new hardware.
post #30 of 33
For me CoreTemp shows +10C on full load more, then on RealTemp
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