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Corroded GPU block - only used for a month - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norlig View Post

Pure distilled water and a (silver) pill that is used to keep water fresh for a long time is what I am using. Works like a charm smile.gif

That's nice, but how is it relevant to his question? You don't need to stick your two cents in things if there isn't a point. tongue.gif
He was using the exact same thing, more or less, and experienced issues.
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post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

That's nice, but how is it relevant to his question? You don't need to stick your two cents in things if there isn't a point. tongue.gif
He was using the exact same thing, more or less, and experienced issues.
OP used a different mix made by swiftech....
post #13 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Socks keep you warm View Post

OP used a different mix made by swiftech....


A premixed fluid containing corrosion inhibitors != corrosion issues?

Premixed fluid's contents:
4-Hydroxybenzoic acid 0.1 to 1.5%
Sodium Nitrate 0.5 to 2.5%, Benzoic Acid 0.5 to 2.5%
Petroleum sodium sulfonate 0.1 to 1.5%
Blue coloring, Distilled water min 90%
Edited by ZytheEKS - 5/19/13 at 5:10am
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post #14 of 19
look it's extremely unlikely to be corrosion after 1 month in any case. Nothing can be determined from the picture provided but colour change does not equal corrosion, any time someone sees a block that doesn't look exactly like the day they bought it they shout corrosion now because of all the mis-information on the net.
With a good clean I bet it will look good as new.
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post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

A premixed fluid containing corrosion inhibitors != corrosion issues?

Premixed fluid's contents:
4-Hydroxybenzoic acid 0.1 to 1.5%
Sodium Nitrate 0.5 to 2.5%, Benzoic Acid 0.5 to 2.5%
Petroleum sodium sulfonate 0.1 to 1.5%
Blue coloring, Distilled water min 90%

Cool information but as i said the other user was just explaining to OP what they were using like me and have had no issues. thumb.gif
post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Your facts are quite off tongue.gif

The reason you don't use different metals in the same loop, in some situations, is because of galvanic corrosion. Silver, copper, nickle, and brass all work well together.
http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

Take a bit of time to research into it a bit. He ISN'T experiencing galvanic corrosion. If he was he would be having problems ELSEWHERE in his loop, as it would depost nickle particles in the CPU block, and other components. On a side note, "anti-corrosive inhibitors" would imply the liquid has additives that negate corrosion inhibitors thus allowing corrosion to occur. For future reference, either use the term "Anti-corrosive" or "Corrosion Inhibitor"
biggrin.gif



As for my recommendation, flush your system, clean out your block, then switch to distilled water with Mayhems Biocide Extreme.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17710/ex-liq-291/Mayhems_Biocide_Extreme_-_10mL.html

It's not just a biocide, but also an anti-scaling agent, corrosion inhibitor, and adds VERY little actual fluid to your loop, so it doesn't effect temps that much. It also comes with a PH balancing kit, so that will help make sure you're using it correctly.

get your facts straight before you attack others
i never mentioned anything about galvanic corrosion, you did
i mentioned something that is backed by science and has nothing to do with one or the other. i stand by my statements.
Quote:
The galvanic table is for metal to metal contact in atmosphere under varying humid/salt conditions, and does not apply to oxidation/reduction for ions in solution. For metals that ionize, separated by a solution, it is oxidation/reduction reactions, ie SEP that governs corrosiveness.

For a nickel plated block and a silver coil in solution, there is no direct metal to metal contact, so again only SEP (standard electrode potential) applies. Silver is +0.8, nickel is -0.2, copper is +.2. Nickel will lose its electron (oxidation corrosion) to Silver (AG) that is not debatable. The only unknown is silver ions are only at ? 20 ppb concentration or so from a silver coil, and ? if enough to cause corrosion at significant rate, but no doubt corrosion/erosion of nickel will occur faster than if silver or copper were not used.

it seems your stuck on galvanic corrosion, i see a lot of people only talk about this happening with aluminum and copper, but then they forget not all metals are the same and there is much more than just using distilled water+kill coil without anti corrosive inhibitors.

in the OP's case he put a silver kill coil when he truly didn't need one

feel free to tell me how standard electrode potential has something to do with galvanic corrosion biggrin.gif
the coolant you linked is worthless if hes just going to throw a kill coil in there.
Edited by INCREDIBLEHULK - 5/19/13 at 8:42am
  
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post #17 of 19
need better pic
as that is copper base from the block?
or something stick on nickel plate?

i just saw my friend 580's block nickel is peel off and copper is exposed.....
ek nickel plate 580 3g block.....

dismantle the block and take a look
post #18 of 19
A silver kill coil MAY CONTRIBUTE to galvanizing, but it would take a lot longer than a month. Regardless, I would not recommend that anyone use them in a loop with more than 1-2 other metals, as the more metals (regardless of how close they are on the galvanic index) the more quickly corrosion will occur.

I would instead recommend a good Biocide like PTNuke-PHN and 2-5 drops of Redline Water Wetter per liter of H2O. RL WW is powerful stuff, not only is it a corrosion inhibitor, it's also a surfactant (prevents micro bubbles) and reduces the surface tension of the water (reduces boundary layer), while adding some degree of increased cooling via increased ability to hold heat.
   
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post #19 of 19
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