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Two radiators in a row, bad? - Page 2

post #11 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickeelion View Post

you can get close to ambient. you just need exponentially more rads the closer you are to ambient to achieve the same improvement than if the delta was much larger

Yes obviously, but that is not the same thing. The water just stays near ambient temp and doesn't get any warmer if you have an unfeasibly large rad array. They don't take hot water and return it to ambient.

Anyway, OP this is a good read for thinking about airflow arrangement for radiators. Its going to be tricky in that case. With the limited intake and exhaust there is going to be a lot of air being drawn back into rads by the top fans and also the front rad drawing air from the case through the holes next to the rad.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7111920&postcount=5
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post #12 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenback View Post

instead of putting the 120 in the bottom I'd put a thicker rad in the front, maybe 1 of the monsta 80mm rads you'd probably get better temps with a 80mm 360 then adding a 30mm 120 imo. smile.gif

I didn't expect to be able to get that radiator here in NZ but a shop here has the special white edition so I'm going to get that. Looking at reviews, it's a nice radiator!
post #13 of 21
The Alphacool NexXxoS is 1 of the best rads atm so I can't see how you can lose with an 80mm one smile.gif . Wish they were about when I got all the stuff for my loop
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post #14 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenback View Post

The Alphacool NexXxoS is 1 of the best rads atm so I can't see how you can lose with an 80mm one smile.gif . Wish they were about when I got all the stuff for my loop

Yes, I am going with strictly Alphacool rads for my build. They just scream quality!
post #15 of 21
Not screaming quality, but pretty good for their price.

Both of my UT60 480s came with only 24 screws instead of 32. The first rad had a couple screw holes incorrectly tapped, and my second UT60 had a lot of bent fints and the copper plugs were oxidized. Both are leak-free though. smile.gif
post #16 of 21
Yeah my XT45 was pretty good but my UT60 480 is one of the many that rattles like a babies toy because of all the crap left inside it during the manufacturing. Paint on both of them is a bit iffy.

They certainly aren't the best quality, its lucky they work well.

Black Ice make the nicest conventional rads I have seen. Great build quality and presentation.
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post #17 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

Yeah my XT45 was pretty good but my UT60 480 is one of the many that rattles like a babies toy because of all the crap left inside it during the manufacturing. Paint on both of them is a bit iffy.

They certainly aren't the best quality, its lucky they work well.

Black Ice make the nicest conventional rads I have seen. Great build quality and presentation.

Black Ice rads are also incredibly cheap compared to most rads (Referring to consumer level price) so that's always nice XD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

Practically every radiator on the market ( Except for the Aquacomputer ) are simple U flow dual pass rads. water flows down tubes on one side and back up on the other side. Slim rads have one row of tubes and thicker rads have two or three but they are just simple U flow still. The extra tubes of the thicker rads just reduces restriction because the water has twice or three times the number of tubes to flow through.

The order of components in a loop, as long as flow is reasonable, has very little impact on temps. The temp increase between components is usually less than a single degree but the whole loop increases by something like 10C over ambient or even more. Radiators only work if the water in them is warmer than the air going through them. They do not return the water to ambient temperature or even close.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

Yes obviously, but that is not the same thing. The water just stays near ambient temp and doesn't get any warmer if you have an unfeasibly large rad array. They don't take hot water and return it to ambient.

Anyway, OP this is a good read for thinking about airflow arrangement for radiators. Its going to be tricky in that case. With the limited intake and exhaust there is going to be a lot of air being drawn back into rads by the top fans and also the front rad drawing air from the case through the holes next to the rad.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7111920&postcount=5

Throw in a reactor tower cooler:
http://pcbheaven.com/blogpages/images/thumbs/pccoolingmethods_1239314349.jpg

That will get it to ambient temps really quick, and quit cheaply.
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post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by sakerfalcon View Post

Not screaming quality, but pretty good for their price.

Both of my UT60 480s came with only 24 screws instead of 32. The first rad had a couple screw holes incorrectly tapped, and my second UT60 had a lot of bent fints and the copper plugs were oxidized. Both are leak-free though. smile.gif

rolleyes.gif my RX360 only has 16 screw, in which only 12 of them are long enough to use with fans
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post #19 of 21
Black Ice rads incredibly cheap?


I am sure you are thinking of the wrong thing, next to Aquacomputer/Watercool, they're by far the priciest radiators out there...
   
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post #20 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Black Ice rads incredibly cheap?


I am sure you are thinking of the wrong thing, next to Aquacomputer/Watercool, they're by far the priciest radiators out there...

Black Ice Steaths are relatively cheap, though.

It's the GTXs that are expensive.
   
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