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Steelseries Ikari Laser Odd Problem

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
So I just purchased an Ikari Laser today and when I go to test this baby out, I noticed that the back button (button 4) oddly acts as a CPI toggle. The strangest part is that the functionality of the button works normally.

Hell, I even changed it to act as left click and even when that's working it still persists that it's a CPI toggle. rolleyes.gif

Has anyone else experienced this odd problem and/or have a possible solution?
post #2 of 4
I've had two Ikari Laser mice, but never had that problem. The CPI button is fixed function, not programmable, as far as I remember, you can only use it to switch between your two CPI presets, or press and hold, to get into parameter setting mode. My best guess is that you have a hardware problem within the mouse. Maybe when you press the back button, it flexes or moves the circuit board inside, and that somehow actuates the CPI function, whether it's an intermittent contact inside the CPI switch, or a cold solder joint between the CPI switch and the circuit board. It sounds like the back button is actuating its programmed function, which is good, and that only the simultaneous CPI actuation is unintended / unwanted. A couple of things you can try, to narrow down the problem:

- Press and hold the CPI button down, quickly press and release the back button, then release the CPI button, before the Ikari goes into parameter mode. Does the back button still toggle the CPI, if the CPI button is pressed?

- Press the back button very slowly and gently and then release. The idea is to actuate the switch with as little force as possible, to avoid flexing or moving the circuit board inside. A really firm press could provoke the issue. Does the CPI still toggle?

- Does the CPI switch work normally by itself? I seem to remember there being an issue with CPI switching on the Ikari Laser not working quite right, if the two CPI levels were set to the exact same number. I used to use 500 CPI for one level, and 501 CPI for the other level, to work around this issue, as a means to effectively disable the CPI switching function (I didn't want this feature active, my personal preference to stick with one effective value).
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7-3770K Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H Gigabyte 580GTX Asus 440GT for PhysX 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
16 GB G.Skill PC3-17000 2133MHz @1.65V Samsung Model 830 - 256GB SSD Samsung Model 470- 128GB SSD 2x Samsung 1 TB F3's in RAID 0 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
LG Bluray Combo Zalman Performa 10X Windows 7 64-bit Asus VG278HE 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
SS (Ideazon) Merc Stealth Corsair AX850 Corsair Carbide 500R CM Spawn 
Mouse PadAudioOther
Mionix Sargas 460 Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-1250 TV Tuner Card 
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post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 
Yay, a reply! I was about to lose hope here. haha

Anyways yeah, I always thought that the the CPI toggle couldn't be programmed to other buttons so when I saw my Ikari do this I thought it was a little strange.
Quote:
Press and hold the CPI button down, quickly press and release the back button, then release the CPI button, before the Ikari goes into parameter mode. Does the back button still toggle the CPI, if the CPI button is pressed?

Yes, it goes into parameter mode. I even tried holding the back button and that went into parameter mode too.
Quote:
Press the back button very slowly and gently and then release. The idea is to actuate the switch with as little force as possible, to avoid flexing or moving the circuit board inside. A really firm press could provoke the issue. Does the CPI still toggle?

Yes, it still toggles.
Quote:
Does the CPI switch work normally by itself? I seem to remember there being an issue with CPI switching on the Ikari Laser not working quite right, if the two CPI levels were set to the exact same number. I used to use 500 CPI for one level, and 501 CPI for the other level, to work around this issue, as a means to effectively disable the CPI switching function (I didn't want this feature active, my personal preference to stick with one effective value)

Yes, the normal switch works normally. My CPI for both modes were already set at different values (800 and 1050). I even tried your idea of off setting the CPI by one, but it didn't fix the problem.

I 'm starting to think it's an internal problem, possibly cold solder. I bought the mouse second hand from ebay so RMAing it is out of the question.
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Well, I just discovered that a friend of mine just happens to have a broken Ikari that he kept for years after it stopped functioning. I think I'll just swap out the toggle board and see if that helps.

Anyways, thanks for the suggestions ElectricDelta! smile.gif
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