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I mean im confused do i need corrosion blocker?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/t347014.html

read lots of articles and trying to find a corrosion blocker so i ordered feser base corrosion blocker

but im hearing so many things that i dont know if i made the right choice

all im running is distilled water, and dead water biocide, and plan to just have like 1-2 drops of this corrosion blocker. But i only ordered because of an article stating that galvanic corrosion will happen indefinitely.

well this guy says that his tubing plastersizes. All im running is copper, and brass, probably nickle from barbs, so id really appreciate this if it gets answered as i hate the paranoia of screwing up my system even though ive done my research and cant be 100% positive

thank you

also, is this a good type of corrosion blocker? i didnt want to use anti freeze as i want to stick to a straight distilled, biocide, corrosion blocker mix. no dyes... even though they are cool. i look at my screen while gaming not my pc lol
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post #2 of 6
Distilled water ionizes eventually so you EDIT: will should get some corrosion, now I don't know the chemistry of it but
redline water wetter is what I use, Good stuff and its cheap . (it mixes clear into water, only use a few drops)
Edited by jakethesnake438 - 5/21/13 at 3:26pm
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post #3 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by powerdemon292 View Post

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/t347014.html

read lots of articles and trying to find a corrosion blocker so i ordered feser base corrosion blocker

but im hearing so many things that i dont know if i made the right choice

all im running is distilled water, and dead water biocide, and plan to just have like 1-2 drops of this corrosion blocker. But i only ordered because of an article stating that galvanic corrosion will happen indefinitely.

well this guy says that his tubing plastersizes. All im running is copper, and brass, probably nickle from barbs, so id really appreciate this if it gets answered as i hate the paranoia of screwing up my system even though ive done my research and cant be 100% positive

thank you

also, is this a good type of corrosion blocker? i didnt want to use anti freeze as i want to stick to a straight distilled, biocide, corrosion blocker mix. no dyes... even though they are cool. i look at my screen while gaming not my pc lol

Most corrosion inhibitars are either EG or PG.

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post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Have you heard good things about feser base?
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post #5 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethesnake438 View Post

Distilled water ionizes eventually so you EDIT: will should get some corrosion, now I don't know the chemistry of it but
redline water wetter is what I use, Good stuff and its cheap . (it mixes clear into water, only use a few drops)

The chemistry of it:


What happens is that when the more anodic metals are electrically in contact (through the water) they wil corrode in the presence of more noble metals, Look at the chart you can see copper and Aluminium are pretty far apart, The aluminium will corrode in the presence of copper and deposit bits of itself over your loop, the copper won't be affected (as the aluminium is more to the right and therefore more anodic) However if you choose gold and aluminium which are even further apart the aluminium will corrode even faster then if it with copper.

Rule of thumb is that you want the metals to be closer than 0.15 electrode potential to keep the corrosion rate down, you will never have no corrosion, just the closer they are the longer corrosion takes. Looking at brass and copper they are pretty much the same electrode potential so corrosion will take a decade or so before anything is visible, (copper and aluminium would go nasty within a year)

Nickel and copper are a little further apart and the copper will be the one that corrodes, it's not too far so the corrosion will not affect you by the time you go to upgrade anyway.

You really don't need corrosion "reducers" with your loop, your metals will play nice together so don't worry. Also I say reducers because anti-corrosives do not block corrosion, they'll never ever be able to stop it, They'll only ever be able to slow it down a bit.

EDIT: If you really must have anti-corrosives for you own sanity then I would get Mayhems biocide, It has anti corrosive stuff and biocide in it too so you only need that and distilled water, Also Mayhems is the god when It comes to making chemicals and they test their stuff thoroughly.
Edited by Stickeelion - 5/21/13 at 9:57pm
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post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickeelion View Post

The chemistry of it:


What happens is that when the more anodic metals are electrically in contact (through the water) they wil corrode in the presence of more noble metals, Look at the chart you can see copper and Aluminium are pretty far apart, The aluminium will corrode in the presence of copper and deposit bits of itself over your loop, the copper won't be affected (as the aluminium is more to the right and therefore more anodic) However if you choose gold and aluminium which are even further apart the aluminium will corrode even faster then if it with copper.

Rule of thumb is that you want the metals to be closer than 0.15 electrode potential to keep the corrosion rate down, you will never have no corrosion, just the closer they are the longer corrosion takes. Looking at brass and copper they are pretty much the same electrode potential so corrosion will take a decade or so before anything is visible, (copper and aluminium would go nasty within a year)

Nickel and copper are a little further apart and the copper will be the one that corrodes, it's not too far so the corrosion will not affect you by the time you go to upgrade anyway.

You really don't need corrosion "reducers" with your loop, your metals will play nice together so don't worry. Also I say reducers because anti-corrosives do not block corrosion, they'll never ever be able to stop it, They'll only ever be able to slow it down a bit.

EDIT: If you really must have anti-corrosives for you own sanity then I would get Mayhems biocide, It has anti corrosive stuff and biocide in it too so you only need that and distilled water, Also Mayhems is the god when It comes to making chemicals and they test their stuff thoroughly.


I second the Mayhems biocide Extreme. It's a corrosion inhibitor, a potent biocide, a Ph balancer, AND an anti-scaling agent. (Scaling refers to material buildup on the waterblocks/rads/tubing/etc.)
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