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Chilled water cooling

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Hello, I need some direction. Im hooking up to my water cooled loop a water chiller that brings down the temp at alittle above freezing levels. 35 degrees. The problem im going to have to fix is the blocks and the tubing will be dripping with water from condensation from the extreme temp difference. Where would I get some insaltion for the tubing and blocks.(im not to worried about the radiators.? anyone know were to look or have done this before?
post #2 of 14
Whoa there, big guy!

While a water chiller will take water (that doesn't generate any heat) down to 35°F, a CPU generating 100+ watts of heat will cause the compressor to run continuously and burn out in a short time. You may not even get temps much below ambient.
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post #3 of 14
Yeah, Bill has a valid point. How many BTU's is your chiller? Any make and model you can give us, or anything? There are definitely some aquarium chillers out there that can handle it. You'll want to completely remove your current rads from the loop if going chiller. They will only serve to heat up the coolant if you leave them in.

Are you talking CPU only, or GPU as well?

Scroll down to the insulation guides toward the bottom, there are several.

http://www.overclock.net/t/747244/list-of-phase-builds-and-guides
Edited by ForNever - 5/21/13 at 7:48pm
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post #4 of 14
Thread Starter 
Yes I will be removing the rad's. This chiller is not an aquaruim chiller.Neslab CFT-25 Coolflow Refrigerated Recirculator Water Chiller. it goes from 5 degrees cel to 35 cel. I understand what you are saying about the heat but if the water is chilled before at lets say 35 degrees and only running max 2-4allons of water. I don't think there would be a problem. Im more worried about the condensation dripping all over the place. Also all componets will be on this chiller 3 GPU's one CPU and MB
post #5 of 14
Specs LINKEY

That's an operating temp of 5°C-30°C that's a minumum temp of 41°F. That's as low as it will go, with no load!
At that temp the unit will be at it's least efficient, as heat load is added the water will warm up.
Also, I would assume the specs (580 watts cooling) are derives from a pump delivering 6 GPM. You aren't going to get anything near that is a loop, and the lower the flow the less efficient the cooling will be.

Those units are generally used for cooling plastic injection molding machines. All the have to do is cool the melted plastic a tiny bit to get it below it's melting point (which is hundreds of degrees).So they are designed to work with a very large delta T, which you won't have.

As for condensation, anything that gets below the dew point (like the CPU socket and all the ICs around it) will get condensation on them.
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post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
so overall its not a smart move. I have another one from aqua chill that's 70 and up. The sytem has no internal pump so I have to modiy it. The first time I tried to run my loop with it I couldn't get the water to circulate in and out with it.
post #7 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbonite77 View Post

so overall its not a smart move. I have another one from aqua chill that's 70 and up. The sytem has no internal pump so I have to modiy it. The first time I tried to run my loop with it I couldn't get the water to circulate in and out with it.

70 what and up?
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post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
70 degrees C. IMG_0260.JPG 281k .JPG file I don't think it has enouph Horsepower to get the lower temps
post #9 of 14
You want a window ac unit to build a proper water chiller...find a big but cheap one first.
Then mod it, no need to something serious, just put the evaporator inside the reservoir and get rid of the temp sensor so it goes full blast all the time (if you want subzero action). Use a big tank (one of those ice coolers) and fill it with a mix of anti freeze and distilled water, and get a real strong pump.
For condensation you're gonna have to learn to prep the motherboard to handle it, specially the area around the socket in both sides, the gpu and ram slots and also the tubing.
You're gonna need armaflex to cover the tubes and avoid them dripping and artist's eraser to cover the cpu socket area. Then use some conformal coating or vaseline over the ram/pci-e slots.
Look up guides here, there are plenty. thumb.gif
post #10 of 14

See here and here

It has and can be done.

 
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