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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 780 Owner's Club - Page 1753

post #17521 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by OccamRazor View Post

"ASIC score is more an indication for nvidia and amd and for us only a measure of leakage in our chips (thanks to W1zzard from TechPowerup to have it included in GPUz), its good to know the ASIC if youre going to run SLI because it want to have closely similar ASIC score on your cards because they will have similar voltages and you can clock/volt them together without having to go separate settings if you get big difference ASIC ( i.e: 60% - 80%)
@TSMC for nvidia and FAB1 for AMD, as the chips are removed from the waffer, tested and fused with the voltage is reflected on the leakage of every chip"


My Titans have 68,7% and 69% ASIC and at idle 0.906V and 0.894V, at load 1385mhz@1.375V and 1.369V respectively! 0.012V at idle and 0.006V at load (LLC variations@ 53% level set "10")

Check the fans profiles, when under load the new card on the top slot may have lower fan revs than normal leading to high temperatures but its normal that the top card is hotter than the lower card! thumb.gif


Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)

Nice info Ed thumb.gif
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post #17522 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazysoccerman View Post

Will the volt and llc mods work on ACX cards that don't have the double bios?

EVGA:
-Classified has its own volt mods TRUE
-FTW can't be volt modded TRUE
-Dual can't be volt modded Waiting for confirmation

-780 w/ acx cooler can be volt modded TRUE
-780 sc w/ acx cooler can be volt modded TRUE
-reference can be volt modded TRUE
-reference sc can be volt modded TRUE

Gigabyte:
-Reference can be volt modded TRUE
-WF 3X rev 1.0 can be volt modded but LLC can't be disabled NOT TRUE - its a reference card 6+2 phases NCP4206, LLC behaves normally
-WF 3X rev 2.0 comes with over voltage settings. LLC can't be disabled. NOT TRUE - its a non-reference card 6+2 phases NCP4208, LLC behaves erratically

Correct?



So can I use the volt mod to my WF 3x rev 2.0?

Sry for stupid question, but i'm new in this thing. And if not is there Volt mod to NCP4208?
And is there point to use voltage mod if LLC don't work?
Edited by Nakuna - 2/11/14 at 7:11am
post #17523 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakuna View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazysoccerman View Post

Will the volt and llc mods work on ACX cards that don't have the double bios?

EVGA:
-Classified has its own volt mods TRUE
-FTW can't be volt modded TRUE
-Dual can't be volt modded Waiting for confirmation

-780 w/ acx cooler can be volt modded TRUE
-780 sc w/ acx cooler can be volt modded TRUE
-reference can be volt modded TRUE
-reference sc can be volt modded TRUE

Gigabyte:
-Reference can be volt modded TRUE
-WF 3X rev 1.0 can be volt modded but LLC can't be disabled NOT TRUE - its a reference card 6+2 phases NCP4206, LLC behaves normally
-WF 3X rev 2.0 comes with over voltage settings. LLC can't be disabled. NOT TRUE - its a non-reference card 6+2 phases NCP4208, LLC behaves erratically

Correct?



So can I use the volt mod to my WF 3x rev 2.0?

Sry for stupid question, but i'm new in this thing. And if not is there Volt mod to NCP4208?
And is there point to use voltage mod if LLC don't work?

"WF 3X rev 2.0 comes with over voltage settings. LLC can't be disabled. NOT TRUE - its a non-reference card 6+2 phases NCP4208, LLC behaves erratically"

As i said its a non-reference card with the NCP4208, the volt mod works but LLC does not work properly as the mod is written for the NCP4206, the 2 additional phases require additional programming to make it work!

And is there point to use voltage mod if LLC don't work?

The point? The point is the voltage mod allows you to have voltages up to 1,300V with AB and LLC hack stabilizes the current to allow stable OC's!
You can have one without the other!


Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)
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post #17524 of 24915
Im a new GTX 780 owner smile.gif EVGA GTX 780 ACX SC. I'm gona join when I get 100% stability (for I am not worthy).

I've had it about 2months, but I've just overclocked it recently. I'm not convinced its 100% stable yet, but I do have a boost clock of 1202mhz (+100) and 6400mhz VRAM (+100) at +13mv. Its stable in Unigine Valley and Heaven, and also in Crysis 3 and Firestrike, but I get driver crashes in BF4 after about an hour.

Reading the 1st posts guidelines, I realize this is difference is fine, different games and applications will have different stable thresholds. But I did want to find a 1200+ stable OC for BF4, maybe if I just increase the voltage to +25mv.

I read this in the first post and it puzzled me a bit:

'No air cooler has the capacity to dissipate the heat load out of the VRM area when OC with overvoltage!'

It does go on to say that 1.212v is fine for air, but that does seem like two contradictory statements, unless the OP was talking about 'extreme' over-volting. Can anyone spread some light on this for me?

Cheers.

Edit: stock BIOS
    
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post #17525 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWak-1 View Post

Im a new GTX 780 owner smile.gif EVGA GTX 780 ACX SC. I'm gona join when I get 100% stability (for I am not worthy).

I've had it about 2months, but I've just overclocked it recently. I'm not convinced its 100% stable yet, but I do have a boost clock of 1202mhz (+100) and 6400mhz VRAM (+100) at +13mv. Its stable in Unigine Valley and Heaven, and also in Crysis 3 and Firestrike, but I get driver crashes in BF4 after about an hour.
Reading the 1st posts guidelines, I realize this is difference is fine, different games and applications will have different stable thresholds. But I did want to find a 1200+ stable OC for BF4, maybe if I just increase the voltage to +25mv.
I read this in the first post and it puzzled me a bit:
'No air cooler has the capacity to dissipate the heat load out of the VRM area when OC with overvoltage!'
It does go on to say that 1.212v is fine for air, but that does seem like two contradictory statements, unless the OP was talking about 'extreme' over-volting. Can anyone spread some light on this for me?
Cheers.

Edit: stock BIOS

Overvoltage I believe, for us anyways, is when you raise the voltage above the stock allowance. 1.2v should be the highest you can raise the voltage at stock.
So then overvoltage would be taking the voltage beyond the 1.2 limit Nvidia placed on the card.

That is how I look at it at least tongue.gif
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post #17526 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aparition View Post

Overvoltage I believe, for us anyways, is when you raise the voltage above the stock allowance. 1.2v should be the highest you can raise the voltage at stock.
So then overvoltage would be taking the voltage beyond the 1.2 limit Nvidia placed on the card.

That is how I look at it at least tongue.gif

Cool, thank you smile.gif

I think I want to see what +38mv will do for me, at least eventually anyways. I've seen some people do 1241 on +25mv so maybe a notch above that would be a good target for now. Mostly interested in core clock as I only use a 1080p monitor, upping the VRAM doesn't seem to do a lot. 144hz monitor on the way biggrin.gif

EVGA rep Jacob confirmed to me that any amount of voltage alteration I do in Precision is covered by their warranty, but I would like assurance that this wont kill my card within a year, haha.
    
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post #17527 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWak-1 View Post

Im a new GTX 780 owner smile.gif EVGA GTX 780 ACX SC. I'm gona join when I get 100% stability (for I am not worthy).

I've had it about 2months, but I've just overclocked it recently. I'm not convinced its 100% stable yet, but I do have a boost clock of 1202mhz (+100) and 6400mhz VRAM (+100) at +13mv. Its stable in Unigine Valley and Heaven, and also in Crysis 3 and Firestrike, but I get driver crashes in BF4 after about an hour.

Reading the 1st posts guidelines, I realize this is difference is fine, different games and applications will have different stable thresholds. But I did want to find a 1200+ stable OC for BF4, maybe if I just increase the voltage to +25mv.

I read this in the first post and it puzzled me a bit:

'No air cooler has the capacity to dissipate the heat load out of the VRM area when OC with overvoltage!'

It does go on to say that 1.212v is fine for air, but that does seem like two contradictory statements, unless the OP was talking about 'extreme' over-volting. Can anyone spread some light on this for me?

Cheers.

Edit: stock BIOS


'No air cooler has the capacity to dissipate the heat load out of the VRM area when OC with overvoltage!'

How is it contradictory? The cards TDP is 250W, so the stock cooler will be a little effective over that value! when you apply voltage you increase current (amperage) so the power draw rises (when software loads the card) leading to more heat over those 1,212V=250W (stated by nvidia), overvoltage is over 1,212V!
With TDP unlocked (bios) plus the voltage up to 1,300V and up to 1,600V with the Zawarudo's tool you get over 600W (close to 900W with hard mod releasing all the cards inbuilt safety locks (OCP,OVP and TDP limits, yes there are two, one in bios and another in hardware) allowing for more than 900W of power draw!
So, dont worry about your "stock" OC voltage! tongue.gif, just make sure to flash the appropriate bios if you get stutters when your OC leads you to over 106% PT (Max stock PT) your card will clock down it it hits it constantly!
You have EZ3flash in my SIG and my guide on how to do it!

Just a snip on that overvoltage form one of my articles:

"Bear in mind that my system is in my SIG and the only difference was the CPU@4.8Ghz@1,30v! Using triple monitor 3240 x 1920@120hz SLI TITANS W/ Skyn3t Rev2 bios
and memory at stock 6000mhz!

1306mhz / 1,37v / power draw 124% / load 99% 372W*
1333mhz / 1.37v / power draw 134% / load 99% 402W*
1359mhz / 1.37v / power draw 139% / load 99% 417W*
1385mhz / 1.37v / power draw 145% / load 99% 435W*
1400mhz / 1.39v / power draw 155% / load 99% 465W*
*One card only

As you can see voltage alone will not increase power draw until you increase clocks and dynamically load your card, power was being drawn from the wall ranging from 850W - 1250W"


And my article on TDP/PT:

The PT is the increase of TDP (thermal design power) which is determined by the chips maker (GK110 =250W) but this is not a fixed value, refers to the maximum amount of power the cooling system, in this case a chip, is required to dissipate. The TDP is typically not the most power the chip could ever draw, but the maximum power that it would draw when running "real applications". This ensures the chip will be able to handle essentially all applications without exceeding its thermal envelope, or requiring a cooling system for the maximum theoretical power.
"TDP is meant to be the wattage of the processor at load. I say "wattage" because it is unclear if this is meant to correspond most immediately to how much power is consumed in watts, or how much heat is produced in watts, but as near as I can tell the TDP is pretty much meant to indicate both" GL



(where C is capacitance, f is frequency and V is voltage)

Now, you dont have to make complicated calculus or anything like that because you have this chip here:



It monitors real-time voltage and power draw and its where AB gets its reading from the VRM´s! wink.gif

Stock bios come with 250W TDP (AKA PT) so when its at 100% you will have 250W of power draw, if you increase it to the max stock 106% youll get: 250x106%=265W
The same is with modded 300/400/500W bios what you see in AB or precisionX is the percentage above what you set!
Ex: with a 500W bios (Slider set to maximum of course) you see 60% usage, this equals to: 500x60%=300W
YOU CAN DIRECTLY CONTROL TDP WITH THE SLIDER! thumb.gif

Now, why has AB a 300% slider while PrecisionX uses 200% for the same bios with the same PT?
Well, AB and precision have different interfaces so the readings are different for the same thing, just keep in mind the base TDP value and make your calculations from there
It doesnt matter what the % slider is in any program, just increase it if you having stutters or frame drops and when making calculations always make them from the base TDP:

aW x b% = cW (a= bios base TDP, b= OSD TDP, c= aproximate power draw)






Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)
Edited by OccamRazor - 2/11/14 at 9:55am
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post #17528 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by OccamRazor View Post

All cards have different voltages either at idle or at load,it has nothing to do with the bios or anything else.

Check the fans profiles, when under load the new card on the top slot may have lower fan revs than normal leading to high temperatures but its normal that the top card is hotter than the lower card! thumb.gif
(Team skyn3t)

Hey =) Thanks a lot for the personal response Ed, much appreciated. I was pretty sure it was normal, and as far as the temp differences, it seems like the Superclock card I already had just runs cooler than the other. Maybe if I redid the thermal paste on the new one they would get closer. Probably unnecessary and I'm just glad the other one is happy up top.
post #17529 of 24915
Quote:
Originally Posted by electro2u View Post

Hey =) Thanks a lot for the personal response Ed, much appreciated. I was pretty sure it was normal, and as far as the temp differences, it seems like the Superclock card I already had just runs cooler than the other. Maybe if I redid the thermal paste on the new one they would get closer. Probably unnecessary and I'm just glad the other one is happy up top.

As long you dont see any abnormal temperatures, its fine, but i would recheck that thermal paste if i were you! thumb.gif


Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)
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post #17530 of 24915
What's the best way to apply thermal paste? Cross pattern or pea size?
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