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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 780 Owner's Club - Page 1840

post #18391 of 24920
Hey guys,

If any of you are willing to sell me your reference 780 cooler or trade it for an EVGA ACX version let me know. I think I'm going to be giving up on water cooling, frown.gif
post #18392 of 24920
Could anyone tell me if they had their EVGA GTX 780 Classified hang in poweroutput.
What I am trying to say is that after gaming or whatever the card doesn't go back to say about 9% poweroutput.
It just keeps deploying 50% poweroutput.
post #18393 of 24920
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5erveD View Post

Could anyone tell me if they had their EVGA GTX 780 Classified hang in poweroutput.
What I am trying to say is that after gaming or whatever the card doesn't go back to say about 9% poweroutput.
It just keeps deploying 50% poweroutput.

Let me guess you're on the 335 drivers. Roll back to 334 or 332. Something about those drivers sets the card's voltage to 1.5v for some reason.

Some theories include old AB / Precision X profiles doing something funky with the driver, another theory is that GPU-Z interacts with that driver causing voltage to get set to 1.5v. Another is that having multiple monitoring programs open at the same time is causing it.

Here's my experience and another member sent me a PM:

Originally Posted by coelacanth

Something very strange just happened.

I just installed the new Nvidia drivers (335.23) (after running DDU). I also reinstalled Precision X because I use a custom fan profile. Things have been running fine for a few days, no problems. I currently have the switch set to the normal stock BIOS on both cards.

I was sitting here browsing the web and all of a sudden out of the blue the fans on my top card (I have SLI) go crazy and ramp up to 90%. The card was going over 70C, even though it was at idle, core clock at 324MHz (because all I was doing was web browsing).

I opened GPU-Z and noticed that my TDP had spiked to 60% and VDDC was at 1.490v even though there was no load on the GPU at all. So I decided to open up the Classified Voltage Tuner tool (which was not open) and see if something was up with voltage. The check box for "Auto" was unchecked and core voltage for my top card was set to 1.5v!!!

I quickly checked the box for "Auto" and the core voltage dropped to .8625v, the temps dropped back to normal and the fans quieted down.

What could make the video card all of a sudden set it's core voltage to 1.5v? I hope it didn't damage itself because I'm on air!!!



"Hey man I also have 780 classifieds in sli and I had the exact same thing happen to me . The top card overvolt ed itself to 1.5 at idle. I think I know what's wrong I believe it's a bug withg gpuz with precision x and the classy overvoltage tool. I deleted gpuz and never had a problem again. You can always try completely closing one software tool before using another and see if that works."
Edited by coelacanth - 3/19/14 at 12:10pm
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post #18394 of 24920
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysterion90 View Post

That's basically what I was saying. The amperes are splitted evenly through the rails. smile.gif

Just to clearify this: Just because the strongest 12v rail your PSU has is say 22A does NOT mean you cannot power a GTX 780 with it. The combined output is what matters thumb.gif

Take a look here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/761202/single-rail-vs-multi-rail-explained

He explains it perfectly and he confirms my statements: You have ABSOLUTELY NO DISADVANTAGE when using Mutli Rail over Single Rail. But you do have a small ADVANTAGE namely the better protection. smile.gif
Actually I would say it is the other way around. If you're using Single Rail you have to be carefull and watch out how much Amperes are drawn. Because if you're operating on the PSU limits or even exceed them and you happen to have a short curcuit say goodbye to your components. That would not happen with a proper implemented Mulit Rail PSU thumb.gif

Im not going to start a war here, but you read that thread like me and hundreds before you, and you take your own conclusions from it but i still think you are taking the wrong approach!
Each rail is set at an amperage, when that amperage is exceeded it trips the OCP! Amperage is NOT splitted evenly through all rails or there was no reason to set limits to the rails and like your PSU 2 rails 30A and 2 rails 45A, so, why set numbers then? In many cases there is the need to mix rails to go over 1,300V with the GK110, ask around and many people will tell you that with good PSUs but multi rail!
I have been around to experience this many, many times and i monitor 6 threads, all about GK110 cards!
Some PSUs have bad OCP implementation and some dont even have it, so that is why you can hook a GK110 with lower amperage rails and it works until you increase voltage it and you have shutdowns or a burned smell inside your computer, unfortunately there have been many cases like that!
My 2 cents and like i said this is my view of it and of course you are entitled to have yours, so, i end my tale here and will not comment any further on this! thumb.gif


Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)
Edited by OccamRazor - 3/19/14 at 12:27pm
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post #18395 of 24920
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeD2 View Post

Isn't it a 650W unit, though? Or is it rated at 650 but can handle quite a bit more due to it's build quality?
I'll definitly see if it gets unstable/shuts down then, hope it handles it fine!

Sorry for the over-reach on questions and thanks for your patience, mate!

Sory i got you mixed up with another user yes 650 watts is enough at stock speeds but if you want to overvolt and lot of other things then no you should get an 850 watts unit

Buy a 1000 watts then you got room for SLI as well
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post #18396 of 24920
@ coelacanth

Yes I am on the 335 driver.
I have had read your post a couple of days ago, and thought is was due to, or, in relation with the 335 drivers and/ GPU-Z, Precision X OC scanner, AB or even the Classy overclock tool.
I have reverted back to driver 331 and every driver in between. Allways fresh installs and allways removed previous ones.

The funny thing is I forgot about NVinspector I had installed on my comp.
After deleting NVinspector and reinstalling the 335 driver and Precision X

It seems to be gone, as from this morning.
I even ran some mining software and gamed a bit to see if the power stayed at 50% when quiting a game or stopping the sofware


But it actually seems to have cured the poweroutput problem.

What I think happend is that all those monitoring programmes interact with each other and f**k this up.

I was allready thinking about RMA-ing the card or reinstalling windows ( rather not... but hey, you may never know )
But hold on to your socks..... it is only for 1 day that it's running fine.

Cheers for your info

Greetz 5erveD
Edited by 5erveD - 3/19/14 at 2:08pm
post #18397 of 24920
Guys, I got a huuuuuge problem here.

A reference (Gigabyte) card I sold about 6 months ago to a friend of mine just randomly died.

Poor guy was playing some BF4 and then some Euro Truck Simulator when his PC froze up.
He rebooted it and the image on one screen was gone (dual screen). Wouldn't come out of stand-by.
The second screen had image, but only on 640x480 and 8 bit like messed up colors.

After cleaning the card and re-pasting it just to be sure I put it in his brothers PC.
Card works ''fine'' without drivers, but as soon as you install drivers and reboot the image is all messed up again with the same 640x480 res and 8bit distorted colors.

Card was running skyn3t's Rev 3 BIOS with 1.212v and always ran on the following settings: 1.212v with LLC still in place, so ~1.18v load, 1202Mhz core, 1750Mhz VRAM (Hynix R0C) and stock power and temp limits. Had a custom. higher speed, fan profile which never let it get above 65c load in-game. Guy has a noisy room as both his brothers game in there as well so the ~80% fanspeed didn't bother him.

Card was running just fine when it happened. Normal temps (second screen with MSI AB monitoring), normal clocks, normal fanspeeds. No artifacts prior to the crash, no crashes prior to this one.
Card has been run in my PC and his combined for over 8 months and never gave a single hitch.

Problem is, I modified it by sanding the LED logo to make it white, and I applied a ColdZero backplate and EVGA GTX680/GTX780 High flow bracket. It also has no shop warranty anymore so the only place I can possibly do anything is Gigabyte but I doubt they'll accept a heavily modded card like that. And I would totally understand them as well.

So, do you guys have any idea what the problem is or whether it's fixable? Card can still be flashed and is usable in safe-mode. There's also no physical damage to the card. No blown VRM's, no damaged VRAM chips, no nothing...
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Thundahcat.
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post #18398 of 24920
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imprezzion View Post

Guys, I got a huuuuuge problem here.

A reference (Gigabyte) card I sold about 6 months ago to a friend of mine just randomly died.

Poor guy was playing some BF4 and then some Euro Truck Simulator when his PC froze up.
He rebooted it and the image on one screen was gone (dual screen). Wouldn't come out of stand-by.
The second screen had image, but only on 640x480 and 8 bit like messed up colors.

After cleaning the card and re-pasting it just to be sure I put it in his brothers PC.
Card works ''fine'' without drivers, but as soon as you install drivers and reboot the image is all messed up again with the same 640x480 res and 8bit distorted colors.

Card was running skyn3t's Rev 3 BIOS with 1.212v and always ran on the following settings: 1.212v with LLC still in place, so ~1.18v load, 1202Mhz core, 1750Mhz VRAM (Hynix R0C) and stock power and temp limits. Had a custom. higher speed, fan profile which never let it get above 65c load in-game. Guy has a noisy room as both his brothers game in there as well so the ~80% fanspeed didn't bother him.

Card was running just fine when it happened. Normal temps (second screen with MSI AB monitoring), normal clocks, normal fanspeeds. No artifacts prior to the crash, no crashes prior to this one.
Card has been run in my PC and his combined for over 8 months and never gave a single hitch.

Problem is, I modified it by sanding the LED logo to make it white, and I applied a ColdZero backplate and EVGA GTX680/GTX780 High flow bracket. It also has no shop warranty anymore so the only place I can possibly do anything is Gigabyte but I doubt they'll accept a heavily modded card like that. And I would totally understand them as well.

So, do you guys have any idea what the problem is or whether it's fixable? Card can still be flashed and is usable in safe-mode. There's also no physical damage to the card. No blown VRM's, no damaged VRAM chips, no nothing...


Flash stock bios back, reboot and reinstall drivers if necessary, reflash skyn3t bios! thumb.gif

Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)
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S.S.
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post #18399 of 24920
Quote:
Originally Posted by OccamRazor View Post

Flash stock bios back, reboot and reinstall drivers if necessary, reflash skyn3t bios! thumb.gif

Cheers

Ed

(Team skyn3t)

Good suggestions. Tried it. Nothing.. He runs Win 7 x64 and I run Win 8.1 x64.
When I run it driverless it works but has a lot of random striping. As soon as I install the drivers and load them or reboot it blackscreens. No life in it at all once drivers are installed past the POST.
Thundahcat.
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Thundahcat.
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post #18400 of 24920
quick question. I've been looking online and I have been getting mixed opinions from people, fanboys, etc. So here it is:
I have an 8350, I'm looking to get a second evga 780 sc acx, will I bottleneck? Should I move to intel if I'm looking at doing this?
Thanks.
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