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TV overclocking question

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Greetings.

So i got a question for u TV/monitor guru's out there.

I have a Panasonic TH-42PZ85BA plasma tv that i have had for about 4 or so years now, its always been used as a PC VDU.

It has 100hz Double Scan & Inteligent Frame Creation, to my knowledge both these features mean that the back end hardware atleast can run at higher than 60hz.

So am i right in asuming that it would be pssible to force more than 60hz via say the GTX 780's new TV/Monitor overclock feature ?
(note i dont have the 780 yet)

I just need some advice on if i can get more than 60hz out of this Plasma TV.

Cheers
Edited by SolarNova - 5/26/13 at 2:05pm
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post #2 of 9
I would think that it would be able to. Make sure to use a dual link DVI cable
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
It has HDMi 1.3.
1.3 allows up to 120hz. Dual Link DVi i beleve only goes to 75 or 85hz.

Though tbh i would be happy with 75hz, i just want to get above 60 so i dont have ot deal with drops below that with vsync on.

ill try it out once i get the 780.

Hopefully as this Screen has 100hz double scan .Apparently it takes a 50hz input and doubles each frame to reduce blur, thus displaying techincaly 100hz. So i cant see why it shouldnt be capable of 100hz via HDMI for PC input.
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post #4 of 9
Thought Dual Link DVI could do much more than 85hz? i thought thats what everyone uses for the catleap monitors?
What TV do you have?
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post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SolarNova View Post

Greetings.

So i got a question for u TV/monitor guru's out there.

I have a Panasonic TH-42PZ85BA plasma tv that i have had for about 4 or so years now, its always been used as a PC VDU.

It has 100hz Double Scan & Inteligent Frame Creation, to my knowledge both these features mean that the back end hardware atleast can run at higher than 60hz.

So am i right in asuming that it would be pssible to force more than 60hz via say the GTX 780's new TV/Monitor overclock feature ?
(note i dont have the 780 yet)

I just need some advice on if i can get more than 60hz out of this Plasma TV.

Cheers

tongue.gif

I tried using Nvidia Control Panel custom res/refresh but i was only able to get max of 70hz when i went down to 720p. Dunno if thats due to my 560ti ..or the current HDMi leadi m using now, tbh i dont knwo right now if its a 1.1, 1.2 or 1.3 lead. Im pritty sure its 1.3 since its a Mini HDMI (GPU side) to normal HDMI (tv side)
I couldnt even go up 1 hz to 61hz when at 1080p frown.gif ..just got a black screen... Meh ill try again when i get the 780 i guess.
Edited by SolarNova - 5/27/13 at 5:13pm
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Stryker LGA 2011
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post #6 of 9
Dual Link DVI-D is definitely capable of pushing the bandwidth to display 1440p up to at least 90hz, but this is a rare instance of the quality of the cable itself making a huge (or any, really) difference in the ability to display the image properly. Cheap and poorly made cables have little to no shielding and as a result, even a 3ft cable will be very limited in its bandwidth. They also tend to have less actual copper.
However, good cables are not expensive. I have a bunch of Monoprice ones that I got a while back, 3 to 12ft long, and I sacrificed one to see the quality and it's extremely high. Quad-shielded, oxygen free copper, and top notch quality copper. I also have, and this is by no means an endorsement of the company (bc they are terrible), an OLD Monster Dual-Link DVI-D cable that I have had pushing over 130hz without dropping frames. It's 3/4 of an inch thick, extremely inflexible, and actually has Tech-Flex EMI/RFI Filtration Sleeving along the length of it.

Just don't cheap out on cables, and you will be fine. Don't overspend, either. Monoprice FTW.
   
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post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Dual Link DVI-D is definitely capable of pushing the bandwidth to display 1440p up to at least 90hz, but this is a rare instance of the quality of the cable itself making a huge (or any, really) difference in the ability to display the image properly. Cheap and poorly made cables have little to no shielding and as a result, even a 3ft cable will be very limited in its bandwidth. They also tend to have less actual copper.
However, good cables are not expensive. I have a bunch of Monoprice ones that I got a while back, 3 to 12ft long, and I sacrificed one to see the quality and it's extremely high. Quad-shielded, oxygen free copper, and top notch quality copper. I also have, and this is by no means an endorsement of the company (bc they are terrible), an OLD Monster Dual-Link DVI-D cable that I have had pushing over 130hz without dropping frames. It's 3/4 of an inch thick, extremely inflexible, and actually has Tech-Flex EMI/RFI Filtration Sleeving along the length of it.

Just don't cheap out on cables, and you will be fine. Don't overspend, either. Monoprice FTW.

Agree with everything this guy said and would like to add that dual-link DVI can push 1440p to about 152hz on my qnix monitor with a monoprice cable at 3 feet. The actual capability of the cable is about 108hz at 1440p. You can usually push this on a very good cable as nleksan pointed out. Also another thing to consider is the pixel bandwidth cap that is on pretty much all video cards now. you have to use a patch to push more than 300mhz at a time. This could likely be what is holding you back and is why it is dropping you too 720p. You also might want to try the custom resolution utility so you can use LCD reduced and set the resolution manually so it does not automatically drop the resolution on you.
post #8 of 9
Oh, and one thing I would recommend for anyone looking to push their monitor to the limits, aside from buying a high quality cable, is to buy some high quality cable shielding sleeve. WireCare dot Com has a bunch of different options, including various types of metallic (SS, Copper, etc) cable sleeving which block something like 99.99% of EMI/RFI interference (blocks both external interference, as well as helps keep the cable from leaking its own signal).

Take a look at the cables running around behind your computer/monitor, and think about how much interference there is in that area for ANY cable... If you can, I'd suggest shielding ALL of your cables, but at a minimum do the monitor, and if you can stretch it, do the PC, Monitor, Speakers, etc power cables as well (as they're most likely to interfere).

Another thing that MAY help (it seems to for me, although this is by no means a statement of fact), is using a good powerline conditioner/line voltage regulator, but instead of spending hundreds on one, I suggest getting the Tripp Lite ISOBar4(/6/8)Ultra which is a REAL Surge Protector that employs capacitors and other proper means of protecting against surges (the only MOV's are some extremely large sacrificial MOV's that can even be replaced; they prevent the capacitors or anything else from getting blown by a "light" surge, and the unit has lights on it to indicate proper grounding, "line OK", "Line Fault", and whether or not it is capable of protecting against a voltage surge/drop with a "Protection Present" light).... Not only that, it has isolated filter banks (every pair are completely isolated from the rest; I have hooked up a 9k BTU AC unit into one bank, my PC as well as a desk lamp using a 60W bulb into the other, and turned on the AC to FULL blast from off; there was not even a ripple of droop to either the PC or the lamp, but when plugged into a regular surge suppressor it caused [ an old PC ] to immediately power down and the light would dim by at least 50%), EMI/RFI filtration on the power, and it is a passive/active line conditioner which means that even during surges or brownouts you will get the exact amount of power you need (I think the one my computer is using is rated for ~80 to 155 volts, before it will do a soft shut-down; that's impressive!).

I know that it's made my PC PSU even more efficient and cut the already minimal amount of ripple, in half, and my Dell P2212Hb (one of my favorite monitors, because of it's incredible dot pitch, the fact that it's the exact same monitor casing/stand/OSD/etc as the equivalent-size Ultrasharp display which means rotate/tilt/swivel/portrait/etc + Dell speaker bar + full 6-color User Color Control as well as a 6bit+FRC panel but a 10 or 12 bit LUT (can't remember which), and better-than-99%-of-TN-Panels picture quality, as well as Dell's best semi-anti-glare coating attempt IMO), not known for being anything special for gamers.... well, it will run without artifacts @ 78hz using the shielded monitor cable + ISOBar4Ultra, but using a regular DVI cable and plugging it into a "Walmart Surge Suppressor" (aka a Power Strip with some $0.02-a-pop MOV's) and it won't even do 63hz.

I don't usually run it at anything beyond 60hz because, despite it being a TN panel with a 5ms (actual 3.891ms) response time, I have never noticed a single bit of motion blur. That, and I don't want to mess it up as I have yet to use a monitor with better (aka lower) input lag, with this matching the U2312HM and ZR2740W down to the thousandth of a second. Even with triple-buffering and V-Sync on, I can't feel any input lag, probably because that puts it in the range of an average monitor, due to it normally being so low.


Anyway, just a few more tips/experiences about getting the most from your display.
   
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post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
I dont want to increase the hz to remove blur or anything. I just want to get VSync higher than 60 so any FPS fluctuations are less noticable. So even 65hz or 70hz i would be happy with, just enough to give that few FPS buffer above 60.

Anyway ill be getitng a 780 mid june so ill try again then.
Stryker LGA 2011
(24 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k @ 4.6ghz &1.376v P9X79 Pro GTX 780 Classified G.Skill 16GB 1866mhz CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 1TB Corsaire Performance Pro 128gb CD/RW DVD/RW 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EKWB Supremecy Evo EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel WaterBlock AlphaCool NexXos Monsta 240 Radiator Front w/ ... XSPC D5 Photon 270 Pump&Res 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC AX240 White Top w/ Push XSPC AX 240 White External Rear w/ Push Windows 7 Premium 64 Panasonic 42" Plasma (60hz) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic Platinum 1000w CM Storm Stryker Mad Catz R.A.T 7 MMO 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Mad Catz G.L.I.D.E 7 Logitech Z5500 Speaker System Asus Xonar D2X FiiO X3K 
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Stryker LGA 2011
(24 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k @ 4.6ghz &1.376v P9X79 Pro GTX 780 Classified G.Skill 16GB 1866mhz CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 1TB Corsaire Performance Pro 128gb CD/RW DVD/RW 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EKWB Supremecy Evo EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel WaterBlock AlphaCool NexXos Monsta 240 Radiator Front w/ ... XSPC D5 Photon 270 Pump&Res 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC AX240 White Top w/ Push XSPC AX 240 White External Rear w/ Push Windows 7 Premium 64 Panasonic 42" Plasma (60hz) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic Platinum 1000w CM Storm Stryker Mad Catz R.A.T 7 MMO 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Mad Catz G.L.I.D.E 7 Logitech Z5500 Speaker System Asus Xonar D2X FiiO X3K 
  hide details  
Reply
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