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post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone.

Since I won't be using the tubing and fans, wouldn't it be better if I were to get the reservoir/pump, radiator and block separately? That saves me around £40 that I could spend on other parts (better fittings etc).
Quote:
For coolant a bottle of DI or battery water from Halfords or similar combined with either a silver kill coil or some biocide will do the trick.
Nothing really wrong with pre-mixed coolants any more except they are expensive and don't really offer any performance gains. If you want colour have a look at Mayhems dyes.

What about Mayhems Aurora?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-005-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531&subcat=2415

For the fans, Since I'll be using Corsair 900D (and will be mounting the radiator on the top), I think I should have space for a fan with higher depth. Theoretically they should provide similar performance with lower RPM, lower noise, correct?

From the ones with 25mm depth, are the Corsair SP120s (CO-9050012-WW) any good? I can get them at around £11 each (1.29mm/H2O) or shall I get the high pressure ones? (3.1mm/H2O). They're the same price. I can also get the SilverStone FHP141 (140mm with 120mm mounting frame) for around £14 each, that's a 38mm depth and it can do 3.7mm/H2O static pressure. Any thoughts?

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post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiveMeHope View Post

What about Mayhems Aurora?

Looks fantastic but it is finiky and not intended for 24/7 usage. Have a read of their Aurora Wiki, basically it needs very low restriction components and does not like certain components like bay pump / reservoirs (such as the one you have). It is more designed for a show piece build.

If you want solid colour in your coolant have a look at their pastel range.


Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

Also it was my understanding that you don't want to use deionized water you want to use distilled. Both will become normal water quickly once in the loop though.

It is very difficult to get hold of distilled water in the UK - I only managed it by getting a local pharmacy to special order it in for me. You can also buy it online, although the delivery charges tend to be a little steep.
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post #13 of 16
So the static pressure is measured at 0CFM but for the most part a higher static pressure would mean it was better at FORCING air through so for radiators with tight fin spacing. The thing is though that a higher RPM or higher CFM capable fan is going to have a higher static pressure then the same exact fan blade design at a lower RPM or CFM and for that matter NOISE.

So essentially there isn't a gigantic difference in performance per noise in fans and it is difficult to compare one fan to another in comparisons based on noise because dB isn't really a measurement that you can easily judge the difference of 2 things. The reason being is that 3dB is supposedly the minimum amount of change in noise that we can tell but 10dB is perceived as being 2x the loudness making 20dB 4x the loudness and then 30dB being 8x the loudness. Atleast this is my understanding.

Anyways what I am getting at is the higher the CFM the more noise you will have. IMO a good PWM fan that can reach low RPMs and high RPMs is really the best thing to have. You won't need an expensive high wattage fan controller if you use a PWM fan which then makes it the sky is the limit as far as how powerful of a fan you get. My motherboard unfortunately forces the PWM signal into 100% at 75c on it's cpu temp not the CPU core temp. This annoying if you have fans that can go to 4000RPM (Delta server fan) so if your motherboard does that you will want to make sure you get a fan that tops out ~1800-2000RPM. The blademaster is not bad at 100% which is why I recommended it.

You can build a simple switch that will allow you to switch all the fans voltage supply from 12v to 7v which would allow you to limit the rpm to a lower amount if you end up with a high speed fan.

For water cooling though with that radiator you should be fine with some very very low RPMs unless you are planning on throwing 2 GPUs at it.

I have a huge rubermade storage bin filled with sets of different brands of fans and I can honestly only come to one conclusion... people overthink this whole fan thing. Just make sure you get PWM fans even if you are not going to run them in PWM because if you change your mind later you will be stuck with a non PWM fan.
Also IMO you def have room for 38MM fans so if you can get Delta AFC1212DE fans on ebay they are great fans and are very quiet at low RPMs the thing is that at 100% and 12v they are very loud because they are spinning at around 4000RPM... they have the wrong connector on them so you have to cut it off and put a normal fan connector on it which you can get from performance-pcs.com and don't forget pins.

Otherwise I am also fond of the Corsair fans and like I said if they are too loud for you then you can just run them at 7v so I would go with the higher output model not the lower noise model. Again there is not a magic solution for the noise yes some blade designs may be able to have a lower noise output than other designs but the comparison would need to be a fixed how much CFM does each of these fans make at exactly this dB but instead comparisons are normally done at fixed RPM which net different dB values that are again difficult to understand at the same RPM does not equal the same CFM on 2 different fans because of the blade design. The bottom line is you move a ton of air it will be loud you only move a little air it will be quiet.


Also I didn't know distilled water was hard to get... it is at every store imaginable in the US for $1 a gallon and the best thing to mix with it IMO is ethylene glycol. Ethylene Glycol has been used extensively for years as a biocide, lubricant and corrosion inhibitor for cooling systems. It is highly toxic which makes it a great biocide.
Edited by givmedew - 5/27/13 at 5:13pm
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post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerJohn View Post

Looks fantastic but it is finiky and not intended for 24/7 usage. Have a read of their Aurora Wiki, basically it needs very low restriction components and does not like certain components like bay pump / reservoirs (such as the one you have). It is more designed for a show piece build.

If you want solid colour in your coolant have a look at their pastel range.

Thanks. Pastel looks fantastic too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerJohn View Post

It is very difficult to get hold of distilled water in the UK - I only managed it by getting a local pharmacy to special order it in for me. You can also buy it online, although the delivery charges tend to be a little steep.

Exactly, distilled water would be more expensive than a Mayhems Pastel.
post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

So the static pressure is measured at 0CFM but for the most part a higher static pressure would mean it was better at FORCING air through so for radiators with tight fin spacing. The thing is though that a higher RPM or higher CFM capable fan is going to have a higher static pressure then the same exact fan blade design at a lower RPM or CFM and for that matter NOISE.

So essentially there isn't a gigantic difference in performance per noise in fans and it is difficult to compare one fan to another in comparisons based on noise because dB isn't really a measurement that you can easily judge the difference of 2 things. The reason being is that 3dB is supposedly the minimum amount of change in noise that we can tell but 10dB is perceived as being 2x the loudness making 20dB 4x the loudness and then 30dB being 8x the loudness. Atleast this is my understanding.

Anyways what I am getting at is the higher the CFM the more noise you will have. IMO a good PWM fan that can reach low RPMs and high RPMs is really the best thing to have. You won't need an expensive high wattage fan controller if you use a PWM fan which then makes it the sky is the limit as far as how powerful of a fan you get. My motherboard unfortunately forces the PWM signal into 100% at 75c on it's cpu temp not the CPU core temp. This annoying if you have fans that can go to 4000RPM (Delta server fan) so if your motherboard does that you will want to make sure you get a fan that tops out ~1800-2000RPM. The blademaster is not bad at 100% which is why I recommended it.

You can build a simple switch that will allow you to switch all the fans voltage supply from 12v to 7v which would allow you to limit the rpm to a lower amount if you end up with a high speed fan.

For water cooling though with that radiator you should be fine with some very very low RPMs unless you are planning on throwing 2 GPUs at it.

I have a huge rubermade storage bin filled with sets of different brands of fans and I can honestly only come to one conclusion... people overthink this whole fan thing. Just make sure you get PWM fans even if you are not going to run them in PWM because if you change your mind later you will be stuck with a non PWM fan.

Thanks for the complete explanation. I think I'll get the Corsair performance edition ones. They look great and match the case.
post #16 of 16
i would buy gt ap-15s or swiftech helixs or yate loons before buying corsair fans. only the sp120 high performance move enough air they are louder than these 3.
just my opinion though. btw, sleeve bearings are quieter at lower rpms.
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